Monday, February 22, 2010

Greenville, SC: High Cotton

This is a beautiful new restaurant in the downtown area of Greenville that offers some twists on Southern cooking with excellent results. The space is huge, three levels, and well appointed. It reminded me in a vague way of the original Palomino in Seattle; polished, interesting light fixtures, glass. The service on both visits was excellent, with particular kudos the the bartender for an excellent martini and good conversation. I tried several menu items and enjoyed them all, with the exception of what I thought was going to be wonderful: smoked bacon hollandaise, which turned out to be heavy and rather bland. Maybe it was a bad day for the sauce chef. Some of the good things inclued a black-eyed pea hummus [a nice changes from the usual], pork belly tacos with a green tomato pico de gallo [what a concept], and a tuna tartar stuffed avacado with a tasty ginger and shallot dressing. An iceberg wedge was tricked out with fried green tomatoes and an excellent buttermilk blue cheese dressing and was pretty perfect. Good things all around.

The entree standouts included wild American shrimp and grits that included smoked chicken andouille, leeks, and charred tomatoes. I put in Tabasco, but that's just me as I think grits should have some heat. Also an excellent grilled pork chop that was served with a black-eyed pea ‘cassoulet’ that was a flavorful intrepertation of the original dish. Both plates were well balanced in terms of flavors and textures and fit in nicely with the concept.

Desserts were less successful, pretty pedestrian actually and a disappointing end to the meals. Seems like most of the inventive thought went into the other food on the menu. Oh well.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Monday, February 15, 2010

Greenville, SC: Sticky Fingers BBQ

Greenville is a nice town with a very cool restored downtown area that is charming and has a number of nice restaurants [and a surprising number of people asking for handouts . . . what's up with that?]. So today was a Sunday and I was disappointed in the number of what looked like great spots that were closed, but you know I like me some BBQ so I settled on Sticky Fingers. What a disappointment!!! The only thing that was good was the beer, everything else was average at best. The ribs looked promising, but the sauce was bland and boring. The mac'n'cheese tasted as if it came from a box and used that nacho cheese stuff rather than real cheese, and the baked beans were tepid. How can this happen in the heartland of BBQ? Then there was the service [or lack there of] . . . I sat at the bar, which is usually a good thing. Not here. The bartender was distracted by everything, including the TV. I had to ask for water, and after the food arrived had to ask for silverware. When I asked for the check and put out my card I actually had to ask him to process the card as he was leaving the area on some other distraction. This place has a prime location in the main street in downtown Greenville and is a prime disappointment. Don't waste your time or the calories, you'd be better off with room service at the hotel.

EatHereOrNot: NOT

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Ilios: Hilton Fort Lauderdale Beach Resort: Fortlauderdale, Florida

So here I am in Fort Lauderdale on a Thursday night . . . what else is new. Been in Florida for a week, and didn't want to go out of the hotel for dinner, so I got on the elevator and rode down to Ilios. The menu looked interesting in a fusion-ish kind of way, so it seemed worth a try. Its an "interesting" environment . . . these weird faux bamboo things as a kind of room divider . . . some beautiful glass . . . bad fabric on the cushions . . . strange bar seating . . . BUT some friendly people behind the bar. But on to the food, which sounded like a good thing, but . . .

First up was the BBQ shrimp with avacado salad . . . this was just weird. There were three large shrimp, but two of them were shelled and the third had shell and head intact, was that a choice or mistake. Either was it was strange. The avacado salad was really just chunky guacamole, not particularly well seasoned. Some chips would have been a nice addition. Next up a 'tomato bisque' . . . now when I think of bisque I think that there will be some dairy products involved. This was like eating marinara sauce, perhaps just out of a jar from the supermarket. It was billed to be served with a 'proscuito profiterole' . . . which was a tiny cold-cheese-filled cream puff thing, with no trace of ham . . . and tepid at best. Not interesting, and again it was was like pasta sauce in a bowl. Finally, the best of the evening, was a blood orange and pistachio salad. Interesting flavors, fresh and clean, and a nice composition. A fairly strange meal at the bar, but nice guys behind the bar to chat with, so it wasn't a total loss.

All in all, this place was a South Beach wanna be . . . Fort Lauderdale as the step sister to glamerous Miami. A strange duo spining boring tunes, looking like small fish in an even smaller pond, bad lighting and all. This place should just admit that its not South Beach and go with it . . . trying way to hard to be hip and not making it. All in all an OK evening, weird but OK. Would I go again? Perhaps for the entertainment value?


EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Ashland, OR: Oregon Shakespeare Festival

OK, so I know this is supposed to be about food and all . . . but the occasional detour can be a good thing. I have been attending the OSF for a bunch of years [more than I'd like to admit] and its always a good time, with some occasionally brilliant theater, and always something to talk about. This year was no exception, but it felt that overall the level of theater was elevated and there was more to think about, even where it wasn't expected, which is a good thing. I was able to see all of the productions that were running during my visit, so here are my snapshot reviews of each of them:

The Music Man: well, I was not looking forward to this old chestnut, but went more out of curiosity than anything else . . . too many community theater productions had numbed me to the real possibilities of this work. In a word, this production was wonderful. Nuanced, playful and rollickingly entertaining. The focus was more on the transformation of the town than on the developing love story, and the wonderful set and costumes, that moved from drab grey tones to brilliant color as the play progressed, fully supported that view. Michael Elich, as Professor Harold Hill, was outstanding in every way, a real star turn [and a surprise for me, I didn't think he had it in him]. The disappointment for me in an otherwise strong cast was Gwendolyn Mulamba as Marian Paroo . . . for me, she just didn't click with the other cast members, stiff and arch when saying her lines and her singing voice lacked warmth. Other than that, this was a wonderful evening in the theater, and would be a great introduction to the American musical to the younger audience member.

Equivocation: this was the jewel of the season, a truly spectacular event that had me fully engaged from start to finish. The small cast, each playing multiple roles, was at the top of their game and this world premier should be around for a long time. Challenging and yet fun, taunt and at times playful this is what good theater should be and often is not. Special kudos to the exceptionally talented [and HOT] John Tufts, who really came into his own at OSF with this performance. RUN to see this production. HURRY.

Macbeth: without giving anything away, the Scottish play is referenced in the above mentioned Equivocation and the potential here for an equally stunning production of this companion piece are mind blowing. Unfortunately, this production of MacB was AWFUL. Its one of my favorites in the canon, and I was excited to see it again and almost, really almost, walked out at the intermission. The cast never seemed to talk TO one another, they just spouted lines in any direction and MacB himself bellowed and thrashed without ever engaging. What an amazing waste of talent, and since there were so many talented actors on the stage it must be the fault of the director or vision, because something here was really wrong. The set was interesting, the costumes serviceable [and sometimes beautiful] but nothing ever clicked. And this far into the season things should have been perfect if they were ever going to be. A big disappointment.

The Servant of Two Masters: a screwball comedy played in various Venetian locales at a fever pitch, this was just plain fun. Wonderful costumes, broad performances, fast paced and with perfect timing to tie everything together this little play had me laughing out loud more than once. A big dose of the giggles all around, well done.

All's Well That Ends Well
: in this interesting production a new character, The Clown, was introduced by the director to help the story unfold and act as a kind of ground between the present and the fable on stage. The play was well acted, with some truly touching moments and represents what OSF does exceedingly well. And, we got to see more of Mr Tufts, [but not as much as when he wore some great tights as Romeo, but I digress] which is always a good thing.

Don Quixote: every few years something on the Elizabethan stage catches the imagination . . . of cast, crew and audience . . . and takes on a joyful life of its own. That is the case here, a truly inventive production with strong performances all around, and at its core a revelatory performance by Armando Duran as Quixote. Fully believable, as he completely inhabited the character, Duran seemed to be having as much fun as the audience in discovering each new adventure. This has to be one of my very favorite OSF productions of all time, and I've seen a bunch of them, and I'm smiling now at the memory. By turns touching, beautiful, rousing and funny, this production had it all. BRAVO!

This production had only one flaw, that being the actor Terri McMahon . . . even in a very small role she brought the proceedings to a screaching halt wtih her wooden delivery and pasted on smile. The only upside here is that she had a very small role . . . why is she even on stage at OSF at all? Ever?

Paradise Lost: is, after all, Clifford Odets, so we know from the start that there will be no tap dancing or happy talk going on. What must be accomplished is keeping the focus on the story and not letting the whole enterprise sink under its own weight. That this production was engrossing throughout is testament to the fine work of the ensemble, keeping the pace brisk and the characters believable. Linda Alper was, as always, amazing. Particularly so in this difficult role in a tough play. Richard Elmore, another OSF veteran, brought a quiet dignity to a truly sad role that under girds the action of the play. While I won't say that I enjoyed this outing, its not fun, I did come away moved and challenged and that is in the end all we can ask. Well done.

Much Ado About Nothing: this charming and well known story, in the hands of the marvelous OSF company, is nothing short of a romp. As giddy and head spinning as first love in this WWII setting, with the dark undercurrent never far away. As Beatrice and Benedick, Robynn Rodriguez and David Kelly were perfectly matched and sizzled every time they were on stage together. I would have gladly watched it again if I could have stayed in Ashland another night. The whole production felt like a gift from OSF to its gleeful audience, tied with a sparkling bow of laughter that will not soon be forgotten.

Henry VIII: there is a reason that this play is not often produced, its not very good. But for all its shortcomings it allowed OSF to do what it does best . . . pageantry. Beautiful set pieces framing the action, spectacular costumes and strong performances make this a full evening, if wanting in content. The luminous Vilma Silva as Queen Katherine was amazing, but more than anything its the 'show' that drives here . . . consider it a postcard from another time and enjoy the view.

The bottom line is GET OUT AND SUPPORT LIVE THEATER . . . whether in your home town, at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, or on Broadway. Its our cultural treasure and we need to support and encourage its growth.

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Nebraska State Fair

Sometimes you just need to say YES to all kinds of bad food . . . bad in a good way, of course. I spent today eating my way through the Nebraska State Fair in Lincoln on a beautiful late summer day. The focus here is fried things and things on sticks . . . sometimes fried things on sticks . . . and everything I ate was wonderful in a way only fair food can be. So, here are the highlights:

Hot Beef Sundae [yes, you read correctly]: garlic mashed potatoes, sliced roast beef, more mashed potatoes, brown gravy, cheddar cheese and a cherry tomato on top. Its like a roast beef dinner in a sundae bowl and it was GOOD! I could have eaten two, but wanted to save room for other treats. I had never seen anything like this before and hope that it makes its way to the Oregon State Fair in the future.

Deep Fried Peach on a Stick: oh yeah baby! A fresh peach, impaled on a stick, dipped in funnel cake batter and plopped in the hot fat. Crispy and hot, the peach warm and sweet, with a sprinkle of powdered sugar for good measure. Who thinks of this stuff!

Pineapple Whip: I'm not actually sure what this stuff is ... frozen pineapple stuff, kind of like ice cream, but not. Lighter in texture and full of pineapple flavor. Because its cold and light and tastes like fruit, it seems that it should be on the healthy side of the spectrum. But remember, this is the fair, so I'm sure its as full of empty calories and fat as everything else. And, its good!

Deep Fried Oreos: another fried revelation, oreo cookies dipped in batter, fried, then covered with some whipped cream when served. Crunchy, chocolaty, gooey and perfect.

Corn Dogs: who doesn't love a corn dog! They have gotten a bad rap because of the Costco/supermarket premade abominations. But a well made corn dog, dipped in the batter and lowered into the hot fat right in front of you, well, this is another story. Hot and crisp, flavorful corn bread batter and a good hot dog . . . dinner on a stick just in need of a slather of mustard and we're set. More fair goodness.

Deep Fried Twinkies: well, why not . . . frying makes everything better and a twinkie is no exception. Crispy, the outer layer of cake almost caramelized, and the filling [what is that stuff, anyway] warm and gooey. Again I ask, who thinks of this stuff!!

Lemonade: gotta have something to drink, and freshly squeezed is a fair staple and very good. Tart and cold, its the perfect thing to wash down the other tasty treats and refresh the palate in preparation for more fatty fun.

Don't tell the cardiologists about all of this, just enjoy. What fun!!

Omaha: The French Cafe

So, here I am in Omaha and have discovered that its a beautiful city with some great green spaces downtown and wonderful sculpture [I am particularly fond of the herd of bison and flock of geese: http://www.wowt.com/home/headlines/52978517.html]and interesting architechure. Who knew! And, an area called Old Market that is about three blocks of restaurants and clubs in the old market area that was alive with people on a beautiful summer evening. Among all of the this is The French Cafe, a real find of a French bistro in an old brick warehouse. Nice bar space, large dining room and a cool patio as well.

And on to the food. I started with Coquilles St Jacques which was described as seared scallops in a tarragon cream sauce with crimimi mushrooms and creme fraiche. Well, maybe. The sauce was flavorful and had a nice consistency, but the 'seared' scallops showed no signs of being near a saute pan, and there weren't many in the dish. The dish was served in the traditional puff pastry case, which was the main problem. The pasty was flaccid [yes, I said flaccid] at best and I discovered the reason: they covered the plate on its way from the kitchen to the table . . . so what probably started out as crisp, got steamed on its journey from the kitchen and the dish was ruined. For the entree I had a really good roast chicken, served on a bed of lentils with a roasted garlic and green peppercorn sauce. The chicken was perfectly cooked, moist and flavorful and I love lentils . . . so it was a good match. The lentils were well cooked as well, not to soft, and the garlic mustard sauce brought everything together. After the entree I had a small salad with a perfect vinaigrette.

This place is know for its mussels and has an entire section of the menu devoted to "les moules" with ten different preparations. I wasn't in the mood for mussels this evening, but saw several orders come out of the kitchen and they looked and smelled very good.

One thing that can elevate the experience is the staff, and in this case Kyle the bartender and Michael the manager were good company and kept the evening enjoyable. Even in the face of a completely drunk and abusive regular . . . arguing over a tab that he walked out on . . . they maintained both their composure and sense of humor. In spite of the misstep with the appetizer puff pastry, this was an enjoyable evening and I will return the next time I'm in Omaha.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Jonesborough, TN: Earth and Sky Confections

So, Jonesborough is the oldest town in Tennessee, a picturesque place filled with restaurants, stores [always called a shoppe] and stuff. Its also the home of the National Storytelling Festival and International Storytelling Center [with a degree program at ETSU], which is very cool. In a town of this type, folks in tee-shirts with 'sayings' on them, sipping from over sized cups and generally not at their best, it was with trepidation that I was lead to Earth and Sky Confections [described as a chocolate shop]. I was expecting something like Rocky Mountain Chocolates . . . Rocky Road and caramel apples and all . . . but what I saw blew me out of the water. This place is a gem, the chocolates jewels of color and bursting with flavor. I was immediately reminded of Vosges Chocolates in Chicago and Joseph Schmidt of San Francisco. And I'm in a tiny town in the Tennessee mountains. Amazing!

So many interesting flavor combinations: chili, herbs, honey, citrus and all perfectly beautiful. I could not decide, so had as many different pieces as could fit into a box without looking the complete pig. Or, maybe not. Anyway, this place is a spectacular surprise, tucked behind a nondescript storefront, and you should NOT MISS IT.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE