Showing posts with label fine dining. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fine dining. Show all posts
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Good bye ten01
So last night I was walking with friends to one of my favorite Portland restaurants, ten01. We got there and found it closed, but peering through the glass it wasn't just closed, it was gone. Fixtures dismantled, boxes on the floor, glassware packed away. This elegant space, with its well prepared and forward thinking food, was one of my favoirtes, and a real gem in the Pearl District. Apparently they planned to be closed January 1 & 2 and just never came back. This is a blow to the neighborhood and the Portland dining scene, and I only wish the best to wonderful staff who always took such good care of me. I'll remember the food and experiences for a long time ... especially the spectacular mini ice cream sandwiches made with maple cookies and candied bacon ice cream from one New Year's Eve. Cheers!
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Omaha: The French Cafe
So, here I am in Omaha and have discovered that its a beautiful city with some great green spaces downtown and wonderful sculpture [I am particularly fond of the herd of bison and flock of geese: http://www.wowt.com/home/headlines/52978517.html]and interesting architechure. Who knew! And, an area called Old Market that is about three blocks of restaurants and clubs in the old market area that was alive with people on a beautiful summer evening. Among all of the this is The French Cafe, a real find of a French bistro in an old brick warehouse. Nice bar space, large dining room and a cool patio as well.
And on to the food. I started with Coquilles St Jacques which was described as seared scallops in a tarragon cream sauce with crimimi mushrooms and creme fraiche. Well, maybe. The sauce was flavorful and had a nice consistency, but the 'seared' scallops showed no signs of being near a saute pan, and there weren't many in the dish. The dish was served in the traditional puff pastry case, which was the main problem. The pasty was flaccid [yes, I said flaccid] at best and I discovered the reason: they covered the plate on its way from the kitchen to the table . . . so what probably started out as crisp, got steamed on its journey from the kitchen and the dish was ruined. For the entree I had a really good roast chicken, served on a bed of lentils with a roasted garlic and green peppercorn sauce. The chicken was perfectly cooked, moist and flavorful and I love lentils . . . so it was a good match. The lentils were well cooked as well, not to soft, and the garlic mustard sauce brought everything together. After the entree I had a small salad with a perfect vinaigrette.
This place is know for its mussels and has an entire section of the menu devoted to "les moules" with ten different preparations. I wasn't in the mood for mussels this evening, but saw several orders come out of the kitchen and they looked and smelled very good.
One thing that can elevate the experience is the staff, and in this case Kyle the bartender and Michael the manager were good company and kept the evening enjoyable. Even in the face of a completely drunk and abusive regular . . . arguing over a tab that he walked out on . . . they maintained both their composure and sense of humor. In spite of the misstep with the appetizer puff pastry, this was an enjoyable evening and I will return the next time I'm in Omaha.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
And on to the food. I started with Coquilles St Jacques which was described as seared scallops in a tarragon cream sauce with crimimi mushrooms and creme fraiche. Well, maybe. The sauce was flavorful and had a nice consistency, but the 'seared' scallops showed no signs of being near a saute pan, and there weren't many in the dish. The dish was served in the traditional puff pastry case, which was the main problem. The pasty was flaccid [yes, I said flaccid] at best and I discovered the reason: they covered the plate on its way from the kitchen to the table . . . so what probably started out as crisp, got steamed on its journey from the kitchen and the dish was ruined. For the entree I had a really good roast chicken, served on a bed of lentils with a roasted garlic and green peppercorn sauce. The chicken was perfectly cooked, moist and flavorful and I love lentils . . . so it was a good match. The lentils were well cooked as well, not to soft, and the garlic mustard sauce brought everything together. After the entree I had a small salad with a perfect vinaigrette.
This place is know for its mussels and has an entire section of the menu devoted to "les moules" with ten different preparations. I wasn't in the mood for mussels this evening, but saw several orders come out of the kitchen and they looked and smelled very good.
One thing that can elevate the experience is the staff, and in this case Kyle the bartender and Michael the manager were good company and kept the evening enjoyable. Even in the face of a completely drunk and abusive regular . . . arguing over a tab that he walked out on . . . they maintained both their composure and sense of humor. In spite of the misstep with the appetizer puff pastry, this was an enjoyable evening and I will return the next time I'm in Omaha.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Atlanta: FAB [French American Brassierie]
This place was recommended to me by a woman I was sitting next to at Buckhead Diner and she was spot on. I was skeptical when we walked to the place and saw that its in a new building, and upon entering you can see that they have worked hard to make it look "old" and "French" . . . whatever that means. FAB is downtown and within walking distance of the major hotels, so that is a plus for everyone, and they have a rooftop deck for drinks that is perfect. Inside its white table clothes and a more formal service, though not stuffy. The menu is classic bistro fare and the wine list is small but good for a casual evening. And, the food was well prepared and thoughtful, a kind of French version of Buckhead Diner, in the sense that its comfort food and classics.
For starters I had a really well done foie gras terrine, presented with a rhubarb/strawberry compote, savory shortbread cookie and pistachios. It was a small portion and a perfect starter. My entree was a perfect roast chicken [always a good gage of the kitchen] served with duck fat roasted potatoes that were crunchy and melting all at the same time. I needed more of them. Finally, profiteroles for dessert . . . servicable more than good, with a chocolate sauce that I could improve on at home. So, don't go for dessert.
This was a good place for a fun, casual evening with clients. The food straight forward and well executed and the atmosphere pleasing. The one bump in the evening was the service, which seemed to be confined to our waiter [of course] and was completely saved by the waiter from an adjacent table who saw what was going on, stepped in and make everything go well. Congratulations to him for that move and a note to the management: either train the staff you have or get more folks like the guy who used to work for the BD Group. He knew what he was doing and was a great representative of the restaurant.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
For starters I had a really well done foie gras terrine, presented with a rhubarb/strawberry compote, savory shortbread cookie and pistachios. It was a small portion and a perfect starter. My entree was a perfect roast chicken [always a good gage of the kitchen] served with duck fat roasted potatoes that were crunchy and melting all at the same time. I needed more of them. Finally, profiteroles for dessert . . . servicable more than good, with a chocolate sauce that I could improve on at home. So, don't go for dessert.
This was a good place for a fun, casual evening with clients. The food straight forward and well executed and the atmosphere pleasing. The one bump in the evening was the service, which seemed to be confined to our waiter [of course] and was completely saved by the waiter from an adjacent table who saw what was going on, stepped in and make everything go well. Congratulations to him for that move and a note to the management: either train the staff you have or get more folks like the guy who used to work for the BD Group. He knew what he was doing and was a great representative of the restaurant.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Monday, June 1, 2009
Atlanta: Buckhead Diner
This is a great spot in the Buckhead neighborhood, just off of one of the many streets that bear the name "Peachtree something" . . . how did that happen? The place is silver and seems to glow at night in a welcoming way. Drive up to the valet and head through the doors into a wood lined, clubby feeling space with a great bar, mostly cool waiters and great food. All of the diner standards are here in updated versions, they are justly famous for the meatloaf, with some interesting variations as well.
On a recent visit there was a new twist, a 3-course prix fix menu for $29 that has some excellent options and sounded great. So I went for it and was very impressed with its New Orleans themed offerings. The first course was an excellent sausage and chicken gumbo, flavorful with the right amount of heat and well rounded spicy notes. The second course, corn and lobster fritters, was less successful. They had a somewhat gummy texture, but the flavor was good and the accompanying sauce was well prepared. The highlight was the entree, a roasted chicken breast with an amazing vegetable sauce that had, again, great spices and good heat. I ate it all happily.
This is a quintessential American diner experience, in an upscale kind of way, with familiar food prepared well. It is reminiscent of Fog City Diner in San Francisco, but without the staff attitude. My only real complaint here is that sometimes the service is a little lax . . . long waits to take orders, no water, time between courses . . . but that is not the usual and seems to be more related to individuals than to the restaurant as a whole. I try to make it to BD at least once each time I'm in Atlanta; the bar is a good place to eat if you're alone and for lunch or dinner this is a perfect place to take clients or colleagues.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
On a recent visit there was a new twist, a 3-course prix fix menu for $29 that has some excellent options and sounded great. So I went for it and was very impressed with its New Orleans themed offerings. The first course was an excellent sausage and chicken gumbo, flavorful with the right amount of heat and well rounded spicy notes. The second course, corn and lobster fritters, was less successful. They had a somewhat gummy texture, but the flavor was good and the accompanying sauce was well prepared. The highlight was the entree, a roasted chicken breast with an amazing vegetable sauce that had, again, great spices and good heat. I ate it all happily.
This is a quintessential American diner experience, in an upscale kind of way, with familiar food prepared well. It is reminiscent of Fog City Diner in San Francisco, but without the staff attitude. My only real complaint here is that sometimes the service is a little lax . . . long waits to take orders, no water, time between courses . . . but that is not the usual and seems to be more related to individuals than to the restaurant as a whole. I try to make it to BD at least once each time I'm in Atlanta; the bar is a good place to eat if you're alone and for lunch or dinner this is a perfect place to take clients or colleagues.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Charleston: Peninsula Grill
I have eaten at the Peninsula Grill before, and its wonderful . . . but when I'm in Charleston I always head to the Peninsula for their Coconut Cake. Its absolutely the best ever, a fairly dense cake [that seems light], with multiple layers filled with a fluffy white icing and toasted coconut. The outside is dusted with more coconut and a piece regally fills an entire dinner plate. I am a big fan of coconut cake and this and the one at the Halekulani in Honolulu are my two favorites [and are very different from each other]. When you're in Charleston don't hesitate . . . head to the Peninsula Grill and get you some cake . . . and to be really decedant get it to go and take it back to your hotel room where you can enjoy it privately, even perhaps licking the plate.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Chicago: BIN36
Wine bar? Restaurant? Movie theater? Cheese bar? Wine shop? All of the above? Yes, that’s it. BIN36 is a wide open, sleek space with light wood floors and high ceilings that perfectly set the stage for the dining experience that is offered. And, there are choices there as well. You can sit at the bar and enjoy a flight of wine or perhaps relax in the café area with a snack. Or head into the dining room, really all parts of the same large space, for a more formal meal. You can even head up to the loft area and catch a movie on certain nights. Then, just to the right of the front door, is my favorite spot, the CHEESE BAR. Yes fellow fromage-whores, there is a bar with a massive selection of cheeses all waiting to be discovered. For my cheesy friends, and you know who you are, this is nirvana. Flights of cheese in the same style or perhaps a selection of cheese from one country? It is all possible, and beautifully presented, at the Cheese Bar.
In the dining room the food is simply prepared and beautifully presented with some inventive combinations that are always interesting. On my last visit I had a beautiful asparagus salad [short lengths stacked Lincoln-log style] topped by a light and yet sumptuous crab salad. The combination was perfection, a culinary herald of spring. Also on offer is a wonderful beet salad with blood oranges and goat cheese that is rollicking in its flavor and color composition. Red and gold beets made the plate sparkle and the flavors were intense without being overpowering. A winner for sure. As an entrée I selected the roast chicken [always a good test for the kitchen, something so primal is often poorly executed] which arrived moist, crisp, and flavorful, really perfect. The only misstep were the accompanying “lemon and black pepper dumplings”, which seemed like a nice idea but were overly salted and remained on my plate when it went back to the kitchen [and, interestingly, were not commented on by the waiter . . . but we’ll get to that later]. Desserts can only be described as fun, a chocolate and peanut Nepoelian layered with a coffee caramel that was a small delight on the plate. Crunchy, salty, chocolaty and gooey all at once, what a dessert should be.
The only real drawback to a dinner date at BIN36 is the service, which I would characterize as casual at best: long waits to get the affable waiter’s attention followed by equally long pauses between the courses during which nothing was cleared. While this is not fine dining in the formal sense, its not Red Robin either, and with more attention to the mechanics of good service [and maybe more care by the staff] things would really be elevated. The kitchen obviously cares, as evidenced by the food, its time for the front of the house to either step up or step out of the way.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
In the dining room the food is simply prepared and beautifully presented with some inventive combinations that are always interesting. On my last visit I had a beautiful asparagus salad [short lengths stacked Lincoln-log style] topped by a light and yet sumptuous crab salad. The combination was perfection, a culinary herald of spring. Also on offer is a wonderful beet salad with blood oranges and goat cheese that is rollicking in its flavor and color composition. Red and gold beets made the plate sparkle and the flavors were intense without being overpowering. A winner for sure. As an entrée I selected the roast chicken [always a good test for the kitchen, something so primal is often poorly executed] which arrived moist, crisp, and flavorful, really perfect. The only misstep were the accompanying “lemon and black pepper dumplings”, which seemed like a nice idea but were overly salted and remained on my plate when it went back to the kitchen [and, interestingly, were not commented on by the waiter . . . but we’ll get to that later]. Desserts can only be described as fun, a chocolate and peanut Nepoelian layered with a coffee caramel that was a small delight on the plate. Crunchy, salty, chocolaty and gooey all at once, what a dessert should be.
The only real drawback to a dinner date at BIN36 is the service, which I would characterize as casual at best: long waits to get the affable waiter’s attention followed by equally long pauses between the courses during which nothing was cleared. While this is not fine dining in the formal sense, its not Red Robin either, and with more attention to the mechanics of good service [and maybe more care by the staff] things would really be elevated. The kitchen obviously cares, as evidenced by the food, its time for the front of the house to either step up or step out of the way.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Monday, April 13, 2009
Chicago: Cite
This restaurant reminded me of the hot guy you see across the room . . . great looking, well dressed, sparkling eyes . . . you say hello and he responds and he's, well, vapid. Nothing to say, not exciting, banal and disappointing. From service to food to presentation, Cite was vapid and banal. The only thing is has going for it is the view . . . so go up and enjoy the view for a cocktail and then find a good restaurant for dinner. Otherwise you're going to be disappointed.
The menu on line looked promising, and the reviews were good, so I figured I'd give it a chance [against my better judgement]. For the entire evening it felt like somebody wasn't paying attention, neither the dining room nor the kitchen were anywhere close to adequate for a restaurant of this price range and calling itself fine dining. First the service: I don't need the waiter to tell me what's on the menu by reciting the names of the dishes and their preparations just as they are printed . . . I can read. I shouldn't have to ask for a napkin or water or bread . . . that's supposed to happen automatically. When the food arrives the waiter should check back quickly to see if everything is alright [it was not]. When presenting the cheese course, the waiter should know what kind of cheese is on the plate, duh! And, there shouldn't be a squirt bottle of cleaning solution left on the adjacent table through the meal . . . this is, after all, supposed to be fine dining. And lastly, the waiter shouldn't be glib about everything that went wrong during the evening, that doesn't make it better and only cements the impression of amateurism on every front.
Now for the food. The best thing we ate was the amuse, a tiny cup of a chilled mango and pepper soup that was divine. And, unfortunately, set our expectations for wonderful things to follow when we were actually at the top of the peak and it was all down hill from there. The jumbo lump crab souffle was OK, really just a couple of crab cakes, and why it was "jumbo" I'll never know. Was it from a large crab? Then came the entree, a New York strip served with "chef's wild mushrooms" and Pomme Puree . . . the steak was over cooked to leather [well done rather than the medium rare that was ordered] and the Pomme Puree was a blob of mashed potatoes placed on the plate as if by a cafeteria worker at a grammar school. The cognac sauce on the plate was cloyingly sweet and more appropriate for dessert. Also on the plate was a blue cheese ravioli which was undercooked [tough pasta] and obviously from the freezer section at Costco. My companion had the rack of lamb, which she said was good but not remarkable. Finally, a cheese plate with four cheeses . . . only three of which the waiter could identify and he didn't know what the other things on the plate were either. What??
The overall dinning experience was disappointing to say the least . . . for a restaurant this expensive at least the service should be competent. I have always been wary of restaurants with views [this place is 70 stories up] and should have trusted my gut on this one [rather then filling it with mediocre food in this town full of good restaurant options]. With a view like this the place is compensating for something, and like a guy with a big truck, something is going to come up short. And in this case the short was service, food, experience. Don't bother with this place, its a disappointment from start to finish.
EatHereOrNot: NOT
The menu on line looked promising, and the reviews were good, so I figured I'd give it a chance [against my better judgement]. For the entire evening it felt like somebody wasn't paying attention, neither the dining room nor the kitchen were anywhere close to adequate for a restaurant of this price range and calling itself fine dining. First the service: I don't need the waiter to tell me what's on the menu by reciting the names of the dishes and their preparations just as they are printed . . . I can read. I shouldn't have to ask for a napkin or water or bread . . . that's supposed to happen automatically. When the food arrives the waiter should check back quickly to see if everything is alright [it was not]. When presenting the cheese course, the waiter should know what kind of cheese is on the plate, duh! And, there shouldn't be a squirt bottle of cleaning solution left on the adjacent table through the meal . . . this is, after all, supposed to be fine dining. And lastly, the waiter shouldn't be glib about everything that went wrong during the evening, that doesn't make it better and only cements the impression of amateurism on every front.
Now for the food. The best thing we ate was the amuse, a tiny cup of a chilled mango and pepper soup that was divine. And, unfortunately, set our expectations for wonderful things to follow when we were actually at the top of the peak and it was all down hill from there. The jumbo lump crab souffle was OK, really just a couple of crab cakes, and why it was "jumbo" I'll never know. Was it from a large crab? Then came the entree, a New York strip served with "chef's wild mushrooms" and Pomme Puree . . . the steak was over cooked to leather [well done rather than the medium rare that was ordered] and the Pomme Puree was a blob of mashed potatoes placed on the plate as if by a cafeteria worker at a grammar school. The cognac sauce on the plate was cloyingly sweet and more appropriate for dessert. Also on the plate was a blue cheese ravioli which was undercooked [tough pasta] and obviously from the freezer section at Costco. My companion had the rack of lamb, which she said was good but not remarkable. Finally, a cheese plate with four cheeses . . . only three of which the waiter could identify and he didn't know what the other things on the plate were either. What??
The overall dinning experience was disappointing to say the least . . . for a restaurant this expensive at least the service should be competent. I have always been wary of restaurants with views [this place is 70 stories up] and should have trusted my gut on this one [rather then filling it with mediocre food in this town full of good restaurant options]. With a view like this the place is compensating for something, and like a guy with a big truck, something is going to come up short. And in this case the short was service, food, experience. Don't bother with this place, its a disappointment from start to finish.
EatHereOrNot: NOT
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Charleston, SC: Charleston Place: Charleston Grill
The Charleston Place hotel is one of the Orient-Express properties and that are justly known for their elegance and luxury and the Charleston Grill is the fine dining room on the property. While it is a beautiful and finely appointed room, it is not stuffy and the atmosphere is almost jovial [perhaps its just the southern way]. The room was comfortable and the staff friendly, but the food was a disappointment. The menu is divided into categories: "cosmopolitan", "southern", "pure", "lush". WTF? It made no sense to me and the dishes in each category were neither consistent nor related. I found it all kind of weird.
From the "lush" category I choose Truffled Mushroom Soup . . . you already know how I feel about truffles, so this was a no brainer. It was, sadly, a waste of truffles . . . inedible. It was so heavily salted that it was like drinking sea water. I sent it back after two bites and hoped for better things. Next from the "pure" section was Sauteed Pheasant Breast with winter root vegetables and lemon roesmary jus. The pheasant was a little overcooked but flavorful, and the vegetables tasty. The overall effect was of an "almost but not quite". I skipped dessert.
Highly recommended, beautiful and ultimately unsatisfying . . . have you had dates like that?
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
From the "lush" category I choose Truffled Mushroom Soup . . . you already know how I feel about truffles, so this was a no brainer. It was, sadly, a waste of truffles . . . inedible. It was so heavily salted that it was like drinking sea water. I sent it back after two bites and hoped for better things. Next from the "pure" section was Sauteed Pheasant Breast with winter root vegetables and lemon roesmary jus. The pheasant was a little overcooked but flavorful, and the vegetables tasty. The overall effect was of an "almost but not quite". I skipped dessert.
Highly recommended, beautiful and ultimately unsatisfying . . . have you had dates like that?
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Reno: Harrah's: The Steakhouse
This is one of those old classics, in the best sense of that word, that’s been around forever and continues to impress with each visit. When I’m in Reno and go here for dinner I always feel like I might run into Darren, Samantha, Larry and Louise out for a big night on the town. The ambiance is subdued, quiet and sleek; happily a long way from the noise and bright lights of the casino upstairs, and the staff is the epitome of gracious professional service. Michael, the Maitre 'd, has been at the helm forever [well, as long as I’ve been dining there, which is more than 25 years]. And even though my visits are not frequent, he remembers me and is always welcoming.
The food here is as classy as the surroundings, everything one would expect from the best restaurant in Reno. The Steakhouse is justly famous for its creamy five onion soup, served in a giant onion with a crust of bubbling cheese, it’s the perfect way to begin the meal. I could actually eat more than one serving, but have resisted because the steaks are so good here that I don’t want to miss out. I’ve never had anything but a perfect steak here, and I’ve had many over the years. New York, fillet, prime rib . . . it’s all good. And, if you ask nicely they’ll prepare any of the steaks Oscar style . . . crab and Bearnaise, what could be better. The cool thing about the food here is that the presentation is a step that of most other steakhouses, beautifully prepared vegetables and starch, not just a slab of meat and a baked potato. Its fine dining that happens to be steak, and they know exactly what they’re doing. I have usually eaten too much to even think about ordering dessert, but at the end of the meal a very cool dish, steaming with dry ice, arrives at the table with house made truffles and chocolates and I cannot resist. It’s a perfect ending.
As an aside, this place is also for lunch on weekdays where that onion soup is available and there is a nice selection of salads and smaller entrees. Not listed on the menu is the Snoopy Salad . . . I don’t know where that name came from . . . but it’s a great combination of what seems like random things from the kitchen, and it along with the onion soup is a perfect lunch. So by having both lunch and dinner here I get to have the onion soup twice and that makes everything OK, even if my luck at the tables hasn’t been that good.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
http://www.harrahsreno.com/casinos/harrahs-reno/restaurants-dining/harrahs-steak-house-detail.html
The food here is as classy as the surroundings, everything one would expect from the best restaurant in Reno. The Steakhouse is justly famous for its creamy five onion soup, served in a giant onion with a crust of bubbling cheese, it’s the perfect way to begin the meal. I could actually eat more than one serving, but have resisted because the steaks are so good here that I don’t want to miss out. I’ve never had anything but a perfect steak here, and I’ve had many over the years. New York, fillet, prime rib . . . it’s all good. And, if you ask nicely they’ll prepare any of the steaks Oscar style . . . crab and Bearnaise, what could be better. The cool thing about the food here is that the presentation is a step that of most other steakhouses, beautifully prepared vegetables and starch, not just a slab of meat and a baked potato. Its fine dining that happens to be steak, and they know exactly what they’re doing. I have usually eaten too much to even think about ordering dessert, but at the end of the meal a very cool dish, steaming with dry ice, arrives at the table with house made truffles and chocolates and I cannot resist. It’s a perfect ending.
As an aside, this place is also for lunch on weekdays where that onion soup is available and there is a nice selection of salads and smaller entrees. Not listed on the menu is the Snoopy Salad . . . I don’t know where that name came from . . . but it’s a great combination of what seems like random things from the kitchen, and it along with the onion soup is a perfect lunch. So by having both lunch and dinner here I get to have the onion soup twice and that makes everything OK, even if my luck at the tables hasn’t been that good.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
http://www.harrahsreno.com/casinos/harrahs-reno/restaurants-dining/harrahs-steak-house-detail.html
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
New Orleans: Arnaud's
Here I am in NoLa where the music makes your feet wanna dance and the food makes you lose control. Well, maybe the alcohol helps with that too. Either way its a great place to visit, but the ravages of Katrina are still starkly visible. Come and enjoy, support the city and her people, but be a little careful too. Last night I ate at Arnaud's, one of the classic French infused places in the Quarter and it was exactly what you would expect. Old building, beautiful space, wonderful food . . . and too many tourists. So, here's the secret. . . walk past the front door, go two doors down and enter the French 75 Bar, which is a part of Arnaud's [don't go to the first bar, which is kind of a holding area for the restaurant] and serves the same wonderful menu. Its quiet, elegant, the bartenders [Chris is great] know how to make that French 75 for you and you'll have a great time. Tell Chef Tommy that I sent you.
I started the meal off with a hot dish of crab and cream cheese and spices served with toast. It was rich and tasted of crab in just the right way. The portion was small, just enough to get things going without filling up, and its a perfect companion for a crisp white wine. For the main course Chris recommended the trout amandine and he was right . . . perfectly fried trout with a butter sauce fragrant with sliced almonds. The almonds were crunchy and plentiful, unlike what I have had elsewhere, and the dish was classic cooking at its best. Along with the trout I ordered the pommes souffle . . . a somewhat tricky preparation of sliced potatoes that are fried twice . . . where the second dip in the hot fat causes the potatoes to puff. This is a preparation that I first learned about from Julia Child, but had never seen in person, and these little crisp pillows were wonderful. Try them for sure. Maybe two orders just to make sure they are as good as you think they are. For dessert a crepe stuffed with praline, topped with just enough whipped cream. The balance of flavors and textures in the meal was perfect, the progression leisurely ,and the experience a memorable slice of New Orleans. Check this place out for sure.
A reminder, this is in the French Quarter and it is rowdy, to say the least. During my quiet diversion a fight broke out just outside the door . . . involving pushing, punches, yelling and a baseball bat . . . that had to be broken up and was not pretty. The bartender adeptly bolted the door as things heated up so we were a protected audience, but its not an unusual happening in the alcohol fueled haze that is Bourbon street after dark. Just pay attention.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
http://www.arnauds.com/
I started the meal off with a hot dish of crab and cream cheese and spices served with toast. It was rich and tasted of crab in just the right way. The portion was small, just enough to get things going without filling up, and its a perfect companion for a crisp white wine. For the main course Chris recommended the trout amandine and he was right . . . perfectly fried trout with a butter sauce fragrant with sliced almonds. The almonds were crunchy and plentiful, unlike what I have had elsewhere, and the dish was classic cooking at its best. Along with the trout I ordered the pommes souffle . . . a somewhat tricky preparation of sliced potatoes that are fried twice . . . where the second dip in the hot fat causes the potatoes to puff. This is a preparation that I first learned about from Julia Child, but had never seen in person, and these little crisp pillows were wonderful. Try them for sure. Maybe two orders just to make sure they are as good as you think they are. For dessert a crepe stuffed with praline, topped with just enough whipped cream. The balance of flavors and textures in the meal was perfect, the progression leisurely ,and the experience a memorable slice of New Orleans. Check this place out for sure.
A reminder, this is in the French Quarter and it is rowdy, to say the least. During my quiet diversion a fight broke out just outside the door . . . involving pushing, punches, yelling and a baseball bat . . . that had to be broken up and was not pretty. The bartender adeptly bolted the door as things heated up so we were a protected audience, but its not an unusual happening in the alcohol fueled haze that is Bourbon street after dark. Just pay attention.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
http://www.arnauds.com/
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Portland: 1001
Well, I had dinner the other night at 1001 and all I can say is FAAAABULOUS. Wait . . . that was too gay . . . dinner was wonderful? Fantastic? Excellent? No, it really was fabulous! The best meal I’ve had in Portland, or anywhere, for some time. From the amuse all the way through to the dessert the food and service were perfect and I was ready to go back as soon as we left the restaurant. More than anything, I was surprised. I had eaten a couple of times at 1001 last year and found the room beautiful and the staff pleasant, but the food was fussy and trying way too hard to be “cutting edge” [maybe?]. So I was interested to see how things had evolved since the arrival of a new chef and an overhaul of the menu . . . to say that Chef Jack has hit a homerun is an understatement . . . now, everything works and this is suddenly in the top tier of my Portland restaurants. And now, on to the food.
After ordering, which took some time because everything on the menu was tempting, an amuse arrived and it was the perfect foreshadow of things to come in one small dish: savory, balanced and surprising with just a touch of whimsy for good measure. Horseradish panna cota, with a topping of steak tartare, served in a shot glass started the meal on a high note and things only got better. Who would have thought of that combination?
Next came a salad with duck prosciutto, dark and rich and an effective foil to the greens on the plate. The star of this course, however, was a foie gras torchon. Its unctuous texture set off perfectly by a blood orange moutard and pistachio puree. This is another one of those dishes that made me want to lick the plate and then ask for more, but as always I resisted for fear of not being invited back. We then had a potion of seared ahi served with a piquant celery and apple relish that was excellent. All of these dishes proved what we had suspected after the amuse, that the chef is adept at putting surprising combinations on the plate that set each other off in texture, flavor and color, taking full advantage of each.
For my entrée I selected the bacon wrapped quail [well, I would select bacon wrapped anything, no surprise here] served with a mushroom stuffing and a ragout of small beans. I know I am repeating myself, but this too was amazing. The usual problem with the quail that I have encountered is that they tend to get overcooked; not the case here where these little flyers were moist and tender with crisp skin. I had to protect my plate from the marauding forks of my dining companions it was so good.
And just when I thought I could eat no more the dessert menu arrived and we agreed to take a look. Well its hard to resist when the choices were so enticing and so we waded in for more. The star of the table at dessert was a wonderful peanut butter crème brulee . . . . I know, hold on . . . which revealed a layer of berry jam underneath. And, to make things even better, a small glass of chocolate milk came along on the plate. PBJ with chocolate milk, a kid’s delight all dressed up for adults and just as appealing. With some bubbles it was the perfect ending to a really FABAAAABULOUS meal.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE!!!
http://www.ten-01.com/
After ordering, which took some time because everything on the menu was tempting, an amuse arrived and it was the perfect foreshadow of things to come in one small dish: savory, balanced and surprising with just a touch of whimsy for good measure. Horseradish panna cota, with a topping of steak tartare, served in a shot glass started the meal on a high note and things only got better. Who would have thought of that combination?
Next came a salad with duck prosciutto, dark and rich and an effective foil to the greens on the plate. The star of this course, however, was a foie gras torchon. Its unctuous texture set off perfectly by a blood orange moutard and pistachio puree. This is another one of those dishes that made me want to lick the plate and then ask for more, but as always I resisted for fear of not being invited back. We then had a potion of seared ahi served with a piquant celery and apple relish that was excellent. All of these dishes proved what we had suspected after the amuse, that the chef is adept at putting surprising combinations on the plate that set each other off in texture, flavor and color, taking full advantage of each.
For my entrée I selected the bacon wrapped quail [well, I would select bacon wrapped anything, no surprise here] served with a mushroom stuffing and a ragout of small beans. I know I am repeating myself, but this too was amazing. The usual problem with the quail that I have encountered is that they tend to get overcooked; not the case here where these little flyers were moist and tender with crisp skin. I had to protect my plate from the marauding forks of my dining companions it was so good.
And just when I thought I could eat no more the dessert menu arrived and we agreed to take a look. Well its hard to resist when the choices were so enticing and so we waded in for more. The star of the table at dessert was a wonderful peanut butter crème brulee . . . . I know, hold on . . . which revealed a layer of berry jam underneath. And, to make things even better, a small glass of chocolate milk came along on the plate. PBJ with chocolate milk, a kid’s delight all dressed up for adults and just as appealing. With some bubbles it was the perfect ending to a really FABAAAABULOUS meal.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE!!!
http://www.ten-01.com/
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Orlando: Disneyworld: Grand Floridian: Victoria and Albert's
OK, all I can say is amazing. This is the jewel of dining at Disney for many reasons, not the least of which is the serene setting and the dress code. An adult oasis of calm and charm, in the spectacular Grand Floridian Hotel, which is a Disney knock-off of the Hotel Del Mar in the San Diego area. The hotel is typical Disney over-the-top, but tucked away on the second floor is this reservations only, jacket required treat. Come prepared to spend the evening, the seven course meal is extravagant in all the right ways and just what the surroundings demand. Sit back and let it wash over you as a tonic from the frenetic activity just outside the doors, and be sure to indulge in the wine pairing, which makes a good thing that much better. So, here's a look at some of the choices you may have during the evening:
After contemplating the beautiful menu an amuse arrived with some sparkling wine and the festivities began. Seared tuna and tartar . . . beautiful and tasting of the sea, with pickled papaya and jicama. Braised Kobe short ribs with roasted mushrooms. Seared Foie Gras on brioche toast with a sauce of cherries that was absolutely perfect. A gamebird consomme as an interlude and on to guinea fowl with asparagus, morels and porcinis that was perfect . . . but what is a guinea fowl anyway . . . are they those cute grey birds one sees at the zoo sometimes? Best not to think about it I suppose. Herb crusted lamb with gnocchi [I love gnocchi] and roasted garlic. And then a cheese course! A dress code and a cheese course, its almost too much to bear, but I held up to the challenge. Dessert offered a kona chocolate souffle, tropical fruit mousse [guests from hawaii, perhaps?], tanzani chocolate mousse. As with the entire menu, so many choices and all wonderful. My favorites were the foie gras and the guinea fowl, but everything at our table was beautifully presented and well prepared.
For a celebratory dinner while visiting the Mouse [happily there are no character appearances here . . . although for special occasions those Disney folks can do anything], a quiet time away from the children [I understand Disney has a sitter service] or just some good old fashioned indulgence this is the place. Make a reservation, leave the flip flops behind and enjoy an evening that you'll not soon forget. Oh, and remember, no matter how well your team is doing a baseball cap is not a sign of anything but bad taste in a fine dining establishment. And the folks here will tell you so!
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
After contemplating the beautiful menu an amuse arrived with some sparkling wine and the festivities began. Seared tuna and tartar . . . beautiful and tasting of the sea, with pickled papaya and jicama. Braised Kobe short ribs with roasted mushrooms. Seared Foie Gras on brioche toast with a sauce of cherries that was absolutely perfect. A gamebird consomme as an interlude and on to guinea fowl with asparagus, morels and porcinis that was perfect . . . but what is a guinea fowl anyway . . . are they those cute grey birds one sees at the zoo sometimes? Best not to think about it I suppose. Herb crusted lamb with gnocchi [I love gnocchi] and roasted garlic. And then a cheese course! A dress code and a cheese course, its almost too much to bear, but I held up to the challenge. Dessert offered a kona chocolate souffle, tropical fruit mousse [guests from hawaii, perhaps?], tanzani chocolate mousse. As with the entire menu, so many choices and all wonderful. My favorites were the foie gras and the guinea fowl, but everything at our table was beautifully presented and well prepared.
For a celebratory dinner while visiting the Mouse [happily there are no character appearances here . . . although for special occasions those Disney folks can do anything], a quiet time away from the children [I understand Disney has a sitter service] or just some good old fashioned indulgence this is the place. Make a reservation, leave the flip flops behind and enjoy an evening that you'll not soon forget. Oh, and remember, no matter how well your team is doing a baseball cap is not a sign of anything but bad taste in a fine dining establishment. And the folks here will tell you so!
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Orlando: Disneyworld: Animal Kingdom Lodge: Jiko
OK, so I know that now you’re all rolling your eyes because I’m going to talk about a restaurant in a “real” Disney property in a Disney hotel. One of the things that people don’t sometimes know is that the higher end Disney hotels each have a fine dining room, and they are usually quite good. Most of the restaurants are themed to the hotel, and the hotels themselves are the usual Disney over the top everything. And amazingly, the food in most instances holds up to the theme and everything else that is going on in the place. The dividend is that if you dine later in the evening at these fine dining spots there are usually fewer children around . . . they’ve been at the parks all day and are already in bed. The stereotype of Disney being all fast food burgers and cotton candy no longer holds true at both the hotels and in the theme parks. What a great idea. Now, on to the first of these restaurants that we’ll be talking about, Jiko.
Jiko is located in Disney’s Animal Kingdom Hotel, a huge fantasy safari lodge with some really beautiful decorative touches [check out the chandeliers made from Zulu shields in the grand hall] and a rear terrace that overlooks the animal park where giraffes and other animals are visible at close range. Jiko is on the lower level of the hotel and features African fusion cuisine and a wine list from South Africa. The food is flavorful, inventive, and beautifully presented and the staff, many from Africa, are a lovely accompaniment to the experience.
So now, on to the food. My favorite entrée is the short rib, which is prepared in a coffee based sauce and is slow cooked so that it falls off the bone. The short rib is accompanied by a potato dish that is a mixture of white potatoes and sweet potatoes. I actually prefer as a side dish the macaroni and cheese . . . I am convinced that the mettle of a restaurant can be judged by its macaroni and cheese and this stuff is flying high . . . its baked and cheesy and creamy and I want to roll in it. The starters here are equally fine including an asparagus soup with a curry crème and pistachios and a salad with a very cool watermelon vinegarette. Desserts are equally successful, tasty and beautifully plated. I like the chocolate cake especially. But the stars here are the ice creams, prepared in house and excellent. Ask for a sampler of the ice creams including the sour cream [rich and voluptuous] and lavender [light and floral]. Its all good here, go an enjoy a rich and unique experience. And oh, the wines . . . the list is all South African and is deep in all categories. The staff is knowledgeable and will happily explain and recommend some of these unique labels.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Jiko is located in Disney’s Animal Kingdom Hotel, a huge fantasy safari lodge with some really beautiful decorative touches [check out the chandeliers made from Zulu shields in the grand hall] and a rear terrace that overlooks the animal park where giraffes and other animals are visible at close range. Jiko is on the lower level of the hotel and features African fusion cuisine and a wine list from South Africa. The food is flavorful, inventive, and beautifully presented and the staff, many from Africa, are a lovely accompaniment to the experience.
So now, on to the food. My favorite entrée is the short rib, which is prepared in a coffee based sauce and is slow cooked so that it falls off the bone. The short rib is accompanied by a potato dish that is a mixture of white potatoes and sweet potatoes. I actually prefer as a side dish the macaroni and cheese . . . I am convinced that the mettle of a restaurant can be judged by its macaroni and cheese and this stuff is flying high . . . its baked and cheesy and creamy and I want to roll in it. The starters here are equally fine including an asparagus soup with a curry crème and pistachios and a salad with a very cool watermelon vinegarette. Desserts are equally successful, tasty and beautifully plated. I like the chocolate cake especially. But the stars here are the ice creams, prepared in house and excellent. Ask for a sampler of the ice creams including the sour cream [rich and voluptuous] and lavender [light and floral]. Its all good here, go an enjoy a rich and unique experience. And oh, the wines . . . the list is all South African and is deep in all categories. The staff is knowledgeable and will happily explain and recommend some of these unique labels.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Orlando: Downtown Disney: Wolfgang Puck Cafe
Well, I know that some of you out there may not be Orlando or Disney fans when it comes to dining [or anything, for that matter], but I have to tell you that I travel there frequently on business and always have a good time and eat very well. And, one of my favorites is the Wolfgang Puck place at Downtown Disney [I know, amazing place to find fine dining]. But, don't be fooled into thinking that the large and loud downstairs space is the place to be, make a reservation for the beautiful and much sleeker Dining Room upstairs. Its only open for dinner and you'll have less of a chance of being surrounded by a clump of ill mannered children and their badly dressed parents. And there's something to be said for that at the "Happiest Place On Earth" [wouldn't you pay triple the admission price for the Magic Kingdom if it was a special day for those over 25 only?]. But we're here to talk about the food . . .
I am addicted to the Gnocchi with Braised Boar Bolognese. Its actually listed as an appetizer, but I am proud to report that I have on more than one occasion eaten two portions. Happily. Rumor has it that it will soon be removed from the menu because its not something that our little Austrian friend came up with; a really bad idea Mr. Puck. The Caesar salad is always well spiced and fresh, exactly the right combination. If I can move away from the gnocchi and get an entree, I like the shrimp with lemon risotto. Or the roast chicken, which is crisp and juicy and perfectly cooked. I'm less enamored with the "Original Veal 'Wienerschnitzel'", which has arrived overcooked and kind of tough. And, I'd rather have it with spatzle. But that's just me.
The dessert menu is nonremarkable, which is surprising considering how 'serious' this restaurant and its namesake take themselves. Carrot cake? The Baked Alaska is OK, but nothing to write home about. Last time I just had some of the ice cream with caramel sauce and it was perfect. Perhaps just a glass of bubbles and a piece or four of chocolate will do the trick.
As always there are things that take a place to a higher level and in the case of The Dining Room those 'things’ come in the form of Ani and Larry, the two wonderful bartenders. Even though I get to dine there infrequently, they always remember me and make me feel welcome. Good conversation between making drinks, tasteful evaluation of the clientele [Ani] and laughs all around make for an excellent evening. They are the icing on the cake of this restaurant.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
I am addicted to the Gnocchi with Braised Boar Bolognese. Its actually listed as an appetizer, but I am proud to report that I have on more than one occasion eaten two portions. Happily. Rumor has it that it will soon be removed from the menu because its not something that our little Austrian friend came up with; a really bad idea Mr. Puck. The Caesar salad is always well spiced and fresh, exactly the right combination. If I can move away from the gnocchi and get an entree, I like the shrimp with lemon risotto. Or the roast chicken, which is crisp and juicy and perfectly cooked. I'm less enamored with the "Original Veal 'Wienerschnitzel'", which has arrived overcooked and kind of tough. And, I'd rather have it with spatzle. But that's just me.
The dessert menu is nonremarkable, which is surprising considering how 'serious' this restaurant and its namesake take themselves. Carrot cake? The Baked Alaska is OK, but nothing to write home about. Last time I just had some of the ice cream with caramel sauce and it was perfect. Perhaps just a glass of bubbles and a piece or four of chocolate will do the trick.
As always there are things that take a place to a higher level and in the case of The Dining Room those 'things’ come in the form of Ani and Larry, the two wonderful bartenders. Even though I get to dine there infrequently, they always remember me and make me feel welcome. Good conversation between making drinks, tasteful evaluation of the clientele [Ani] and laughs all around make for an excellent evening. They are the icing on the cake of this restaurant.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Detroit: Coach Insignia
Well, the only time I've ever eaten at a higher altitude was in a airplane . . . this steakhouse soars 70+ floors above Detroit with stunning views of the city [which I think looks better after dark] and across the river to Canada. Prices for restaurants of this type usually mirror the height of the building or the expanse of the view, and Coach Insignia is no exception . . . stratospheric. As with all restaurants with spectacular views there is usually a conundrum regarding which is better . . . the food or the view. The food shouldn't distract from the view, but neither should the view be an excuse for mediocre food and service. The view won out here, with poorly prepared food and sporadic service marking our dining experience.
After a vertigo-inducing rocket of an elevator ride, we began the evening at the bar for drinks and a first look at the amazing view. We settled in for a cocktail and decided to have their signature appetizer as well, "lobster corn dogs". Yes, deep fried lobster on a stick! It arrived hot and crisp and very tasty, proving again that you can [and maybe should] try frying anything at least once. It was also at the bar that we encountered the first service misstep of the evening in the form of a very pleasant, but overly chatty, bartender who kept inserting herself into our conversation. Some chat is good, but we had had a long day and needed to do some reflection and were regularly interrupted by our friendly bearer of libations.
Then it was on to the dining room for the main event, at a beautiful table with that perfect view across the river. We started with salads, the Chop-Chop [pretty boring, mostly lettuce with sparse dressing] and the Autumn Salad [poached pear, bleu cheese, baby spinach and caramelized shallot] which was beautifully presented and offered a sophisticated blend of flavors that turned out to be the star of the evening. Then there were the steaks . . . which I'm sorry to report reminded me of a Sizzler. These were not the steaks that one would expect from a restaurant of this pretense, and to compound things there were not cooked as ordered. The worst example was a steak that was ordered medium-well that arrived from the kitchen barely warm inside and much less cooked than the other steaks at the table which were ordered medium-rare. When the undercooked steak was sent back for more fire it returned barely changed, as if the kitchen wasn't paying attention or was trying to make a statement about how they thought steak should be ordered. Bad form for sure. The side dishes of sautéed mushrooms and scalloped potatoes were serviceable, but not memorable. This is basic food folks, nothing fancy or difficult to prepare, and with attention to detail should be wonderful in the best sense of comfort food. Somewhere along the way that lesson was missed by the Coach Insigna.
The service, unfortunately, matched the food. Our waiter was pleasant but not always around when needed. Water glasses weren't filled or plates cleared with any care. Then an overly solicitous wine steward made the proceedings almost like a SNL skit. Maybe it’s me, but I have not had much luck eating at steakhouses recently and my karma continued here. The view is wonderful, the restaurant beautiful [but why doesn't it rotate?] but nothing else about the place comes up to that level. If I am in Detroit again I'll go up for a drink, sitting at a table and not the bar, have an appetizer and enjoy the sunset view. Then I'll take the elevator back to earth and find a good restaurant for dinner.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
After a vertigo-inducing rocket of an elevator ride, we began the evening at the bar for drinks and a first look at the amazing view. We settled in for a cocktail and decided to have their signature appetizer as well, "lobster corn dogs". Yes, deep fried lobster on a stick! It arrived hot and crisp and very tasty, proving again that you can [and maybe should] try frying anything at least once. It was also at the bar that we encountered the first service misstep of the evening in the form of a very pleasant, but overly chatty, bartender who kept inserting herself into our conversation. Some chat is good, but we had had a long day and needed to do some reflection and were regularly interrupted by our friendly bearer of libations.
Then it was on to the dining room for the main event, at a beautiful table with that perfect view across the river. We started with salads, the Chop-Chop [pretty boring, mostly lettuce with sparse dressing] and the Autumn Salad [poached pear, bleu cheese, baby spinach and caramelized shallot] which was beautifully presented and offered a sophisticated blend of flavors that turned out to be the star of the evening. Then there were the steaks . . . which I'm sorry to report reminded me of a Sizzler. These were not the steaks that one would expect from a restaurant of this pretense, and to compound things there were not cooked as ordered. The worst example was a steak that was ordered medium-well that arrived from the kitchen barely warm inside and much less cooked than the other steaks at the table which were ordered medium-rare. When the undercooked steak was sent back for more fire it returned barely changed, as if the kitchen wasn't paying attention or was trying to make a statement about how they thought steak should be ordered. Bad form for sure. The side dishes of sautéed mushrooms and scalloped potatoes were serviceable, but not memorable. This is basic food folks, nothing fancy or difficult to prepare, and with attention to detail should be wonderful in the best sense of comfort food. Somewhere along the way that lesson was missed by the Coach Insigna.
The service, unfortunately, matched the food. Our waiter was pleasant but not always around when needed. Water glasses weren't filled or plates cleared with any care. Then an overly solicitous wine steward made the proceedings almost like a SNL skit. Maybe it’s me, but I have not had much luck eating at steakhouses recently and my karma continued here. The view is wonderful, the restaurant beautiful [but why doesn't it rotate?] but nothing else about the place comes up to that level. If I am in Detroit again I'll go up for a drink, sitting at a table and not the bar, have an appetizer and enjoy the sunset view. Then I'll take the elevator back to earth and find a good restaurant for dinner.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Detroit: Mosaic
This place, interestingly enough, was recommended by another restaurant that was booked for a private party on the night we wanted to go. The competition said Mosaic was great . . . maybe they were trying to look good in comparison, but this was disappointing to the point of yuck. The esthetic of the place was reminiscent of a disco, lots of bright metal and colored glass, with just a touch of sleaze . . . this is upscale dining?
Now on to the food, which turned out to be similar to the decor. How convenient. We started with the salmon carpaccio which was tasty but did not match the menu description. I hate that! When did "traditional accompaniments" become chunky avocado semi-salsa? I liked the dish, but like to have what shows up on my plate to be what I ordered from the menu . . . unless the dish is called "Smoked Salmon Surprise" or something. Then came lamb chops served on a potato gallette with an artichoke ragu-something. The lamb was OK, just lamb chops, no real detectable seasonings, but OK. The potato thing that was served under the lamb was tepid at best, and kind of pastey. The best part of the preparation was the artichoke ragu, well seasoned and HOT. For dessert we ordered the chocolate fondue . . . what can be better than your own personal bucket of chocolate? The fondue was good, and hot, served with fruit, cake and brownies for dippinng. The fruit was fine, the pound cake dry and sandy and the brownies stale. But there's nothing wrong with eating chocolate fondue with a spoon . . . a nice dessert all by itself.
This is one of those dining experiences that when we talked about it after leaving the restaurant said "was that weird or what?" and "did you like the food?". And the answers would be "yes" and "not really". So, I'm sure there must be better places to eat in Detroit and I look forward to checking them out on my next trip. I guess the take home lesson here is . . . don't eat in a disco.
EatHereOrNot: NOT
Now on to the food, which turned out to be similar to the decor. How convenient. We started with the salmon carpaccio which was tasty but did not match the menu description. I hate that! When did "traditional accompaniments" become chunky avocado semi-salsa? I liked the dish, but like to have what shows up on my plate to be what I ordered from the menu . . . unless the dish is called "Smoked Salmon Surprise" or something. Then came lamb chops served on a potato gallette with an artichoke ragu-something. The lamb was OK, just lamb chops, no real detectable seasonings, but OK. The potato thing that was served under the lamb was tepid at best, and kind of pastey. The best part of the preparation was the artichoke ragu, well seasoned and HOT. For dessert we ordered the chocolate fondue . . . what can be better than your own personal bucket of chocolate? The fondue was good, and hot, served with fruit, cake and brownies for dippinng. The fruit was fine, the pound cake dry and sandy and the brownies stale. But there's nothing wrong with eating chocolate fondue with a spoon . . . a nice dessert all by itself.
This is one of those dining experiences that when we talked about it after leaving the restaurant said "was that weird or what?" and "did you like the food?". And the answers would be "yes" and "not really". So, I'm sure there must be better places to eat in Detroit and I look forward to checking them out on my next trip. I guess the take home lesson here is . . . don't eat in a disco.
EatHereOrNot: NOT
Friday, January 25, 2008
Portland: El Gaucho
El Gaucho is one of two local steakhouses [the other being Ringside] that fit into that upper tier of beef purveyors that has been having a renaissance: simple food that is well prepared, no surprises and excellent service. Think Ruth's Chris without the chain feel or Morton's without the pretentious presentation of raw beef and wriggling lobsters. And don't think about Shula's, its not worth mentioning. I have had many a wonderful evening at El Gaucho with perfectly prepared steaks, excellent service and the best Caesar salad around. Not this time. I went on a Sunday evening and the "A" team was definitely NOT in the house. Everything had slipped since my last visit . . . from the hostesses [usually impeccably dressed and attentive, not so tonight] . . . to the waiter [chatty and not even close to unobtrusive or professional] . . . to the Caesar salad [where is Sherwood when you need him?]. Disappointing. Actually, for the price of dinner, REALLY disappointing.
Let's start with the Caesar, prepared table side, which is always fun. This time the balance in the ingredients was off . . . not creamy, too salty and just not that great. It didn't even look right. Sherwood, a stalwart of the Portland restaurant scene for many years and the best captain in the El Gaucho dining room, would have been appalled. Like I said, the "A" team was not on duty so things just weren't the same.
Then there were the steaks, which came flying out of the kitchen before we were finished with the salads. I hate being rushed like that. They were properly cooked, but too salty. The beef was good, but I like to taste the beef and not the salt. Was someone on the line new to using the salt shaker? With the steaks we had baked potatoes with the "full Gaucho" treatment: a quarter pound of butter and beer-cheese sauce . . . nothing wrong here, and we're supporting the Oregon dairy industry too! The menu says that the potato is "fluffed table side" which makes me kind of nervous, but it was good, and I didn't need to smoke when it was over. We also had a side dish of roasted corn with chipotle honey butter that was good, but again, overly salted. The word of the day for all of the food we had: SALTY.
And, since I know that you all appreciate a certain sense of decorum, you'll be pleased to know that the folks here ask gentlemen to remove their baseball caps in the dining room . . . unique for Portland. But alas, a true gentleman would already know to remove his hat indoors and would never have thought to wear a baseball cap to anything but a fast food joint in the first place! And I won't even begin to talk about raggedy jeans and tee shirts in a fine dining establishment. Its just too much.
This is a beautiful room with a retro feel that is comfortable and inviting and filled with promise. I will give it another try down the line, but not on a Sunday, and let you know what happens. For a place that is referred to as "El Gouge-O" for its stratospheric prices, there should never be an off night. Hopefully next time it will be back to its more respectable self.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
Let's start with the Caesar, prepared table side, which is always fun. This time the balance in the ingredients was off . . . not creamy, too salty and just not that great. It didn't even look right. Sherwood, a stalwart of the Portland restaurant scene for many years and the best captain in the El Gaucho dining room, would have been appalled. Like I said, the "A" team was not on duty so things just weren't the same.
Then there were the steaks, which came flying out of the kitchen before we were finished with the salads. I hate being rushed like that. They were properly cooked, but too salty. The beef was good, but I like to taste the beef and not the salt. Was someone on the line new to using the salt shaker? With the steaks we had baked potatoes with the "full Gaucho" treatment: a quarter pound of butter and beer-cheese sauce . . . nothing wrong here, and we're supporting the Oregon dairy industry too! The menu says that the potato is "fluffed table side" which makes me kind of nervous, but it was good, and I didn't need to smoke when it was over. We also had a side dish of roasted corn with chipotle honey butter that was good, but again, overly salted. The word of the day for all of the food we had: SALTY.
And, since I know that you all appreciate a certain sense of decorum, you'll be pleased to know that the folks here ask gentlemen to remove their baseball caps in the dining room . . . unique for Portland. But alas, a true gentleman would already know to remove his hat indoors and would never have thought to wear a baseball cap to anything but a fast food joint in the first place! And I won't even begin to talk about raggedy jeans and tee shirts in a fine dining establishment. Its just too much.
This is a beautiful room with a retro feel that is comfortable and inviting and filled with promise. I will give it another try down the line, but not on a Sunday, and let you know what happens. For a place that is referred to as "El Gouge-O" for its stratospheric prices, there should never be an off night. Hopefully next time it will be back to its more respectable self.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
Monday, January 21, 2008
Portland: 23Hoyt
I was looking forward to a visit to 23Hoyt as its a cool space and a part of a group of good restaurants here in Portland. The space is sleek and feels comfortable, interesting stag candle holders on the bar and nice people. Dinner was good, not spectacular, but generally good.
We started with the "naked ravioli" which were spinach dumplings with butter and cheese. It was a nice preparation and very tasty, everyone enjoyed them. Then a salad that wasn't particularly interesting, but was just OK. The star of the show was the entree, a wonderful chicken paprikash . . . perfectly cooked chicken in an amazing paprika sauce. It was earthy and spicy and a great dish for a cold evening. Dessert was a strudel with a cherry ice cream . . . really boring and a disappointment. The strudel was no better than something from the freezer section at the local grocery store and the ice cream was more "interesting" than good. The chicken was worth a return trip, otherwise the dinner was non remarkable.
Two other comments about the experience. First, the music . . . a guy playing the piano and singing . . . he was awful; loud and off key in a way that set your teeth on edge. The staff was even looking askance at him, so I'm not sure what was up but he shouldn't be invited back. Second was the service . . . it started out somewhat leisurely and degenerated into downright slow and disorganized. There were long waits between courses, the server seemed less than engaged, and dishes weren't cleared in a timely manner. When it was time for dessert and coffee the dessert was delivered but the coffee didn't arrive until after everyone had finished eating. I don't know if this was a problem with the server or bar or kitchen, but it was not well coordinated and the lapse not even acknowledged. I expected a much better overall service experience here and was disappointed, really lackadaisical. I'll give 23Hoyt another try, but I'm not in a hurry to do so.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
We started with the "naked ravioli" which were spinach dumplings with butter and cheese. It was a nice preparation and very tasty, everyone enjoyed them. Then a salad that wasn't particularly interesting, but was just OK. The star of the show was the entree, a wonderful chicken paprikash . . . perfectly cooked chicken in an amazing paprika sauce. It was earthy and spicy and a great dish for a cold evening. Dessert was a strudel with a cherry ice cream . . . really boring and a disappointment. The strudel was no better than something from the freezer section at the local grocery store and the ice cream was more "interesting" than good. The chicken was worth a return trip, otherwise the dinner was non remarkable.
Two other comments about the experience. First, the music . . . a guy playing the piano and singing . . . he was awful; loud and off key in a way that set your teeth on edge. The staff was even looking askance at him, so I'm not sure what was up but he shouldn't be invited back. Second was the service . . . it started out somewhat leisurely and degenerated into downright slow and disorganized. There were long waits between courses, the server seemed less than engaged, and dishes weren't cleared in a timely manner. When it was time for dessert and coffee the dessert was delivered but the coffee didn't arrive until after everyone had finished eating. I don't know if this was a problem with the server or bar or kitchen, but it was not well coordinated and the lapse not even acknowledged. I expected a much better overall service experience here and was disappointed, really lackadaisical. I'll give 23Hoyt another try, but I'm not in a hurry to do so.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Portland: Jake's Famous Crawfish
OK, I know I wrote about Jake's as my first blog entry, but I don't think I did them justice and want to tell you about this place again. This is Portland's oldest restaurant, a classic seafood house and the mothership for all of the McCormick and Schmick's places around the country. While the clones are not that successful, real Jake's is a winner every time. This is the place for a real Portland experience with fresh seafood, wait staff in white jackets and always a hub of activity in the bar. If you live here you know, if you're visiting go and if you are in town for business, take clients. Successful and not pretentious, straight forward food and good service.
So, about that bar . . . fresh squeezed juices for the drinks, a large selection of liquors, good beer on tap and in the bottle. The bartenders are great, efficient and friendly, and always make you feel welcome. The best of the best are Bobby and Bert who will remember you and your drink after a visit and make you feel like a regular even if you're only in the bar twice a year. They will make your drink and give you advice about the menu while dealing with a bizillion other things and you'll still feel like the only one in the bar. Excellent service and great people.
While you can get the entire menu in the bar, go to the dining room for the full experience. The menu is printed twice daily depending on what seafood is fresh and available . . . all of that is listed at the top and can be prepared any way you like . . . with wonderful classic preparations of your favorites. There are usually at least six different kinds of oysters to choose from to start things off and many other appetizers for those not inclined to slurp down raw bivalves. Try the crab claws [ask for drawn butter {what exactly is drawn butter, anyway . . . is it a picture of butter? an imitation? is lead involved?} for dipping] or one of the chowders. Entrees can be grilled fish with interesting sauces [swordfish with dill beurre blanc], wonderful salmon [horseradish crusted or stuffed with crab and shrimp and brie] or a steak for our non-seafood friends. The etouffe is wonderful, filled with crayfish tails and chicken [I once took a friend from NoLa there and he ordered the etouffe . . . took one bite and said "there must be on old black woman back there in the kitchen, this is better than home" . . . an excellent testimony].
And then there's always dessert. Purists will opt for the three-berry cobbler, served warm and tasting like a summer day in the Pacific northwest. I am drawn to the banana cream pie drizzled with caramel sauce or the key lime pie, personally. Their chocolate truffle cake used to be wonderful, but a couple of years ago they tinkered with the recipe and its not as good . . . not as moist or dense, less intense chocolate flavor. So its not on my list of favorites, there are better choices.
The staff at Jake's is great, professional and personable with good knowledge of the food and wine that serve you well for dinner. Most of the servers have been here a long time, many for more than twenty years, so they know what they're doing and take pride in a job well done. Ask for Carla or Tony and you're all set for a real Jake's evening.
Be sure to make reservations, it fills up quickly and can have a very long wait. Especially on weekends, or during the summer when there are conventions in town. The bar has a late night menu that offers a number of choices on the cheap, but its usually packed so get there early if you want a table. This is a casual option for upscale dining, but almost everything in Portland is casual [that's not necessarily a good thing . . . jeans at the opera and all]. You'll see prom kids in formal wear, dressed up folks out for a celebration, business people in after work and then the family more at home at an "all you can eat" buffet in for a big night out. Its an interesting mix that adds to the authenticity of the place, so enjoy.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
So, about that bar . . . fresh squeezed juices for the drinks, a large selection of liquors, good beer on tap and in the bottle. The bartenders are great, efficient and friendly, and always make you feel welcome. The best of the best are Bobby and Bert who will remember you and your drink after a visit and make you feel like a regular even if you're only in the bar twice a year. They will make your drink and give you advice about the menu while dealing with a bizillion other things and you'll still feel like the only one in the bar. Excellent service and great people.
While you can get the entire menu in the bar, go to the dining room for the full experience. The menu is printed twice daily depending on what seafood is fresh and available . . . all of that is listed at the top and can be prepared any way you like . . . with wonderful classic preparations of your favorites. There are usually at least six different kinds of oysters to choose from to start things off and many other appetizers for those not inclined to slurp down raw bivalves. Try the crab claws [ask for drawn butter {what exactly is drawn butter, anyway . . . is it a picture of butter? an imitation? is lead involved?} for dipping] or one of the chowders. Entrees can be grilled fish with interesting sauces [swordfish with dill beurre blanc], wonderful salmon [horseradish crusted or stuffed with crab and shrimp and brie] or a steak for our non-seafood friends. The etouffe is wonderful, filled with crayfish tails and chicken [I once took a friend from NoLa there and he ordered the etouffe . . . took one bite and said "there must be on old black woman back there in the kitchen, this is better than home" . . . an excellent testimony].
And then there's always dessert. Purists will opt for the three-berry cobbler, served warm and tasting like a summer day in the Pacific northwest. I am drawn to the banana cream pie drizzled with caramel sauce or the key lime pie, personally. Their chocolate truffle cake used to be wonderful, but a couple of years ago they tinkered with the recipe and its not as good . . . not as moist or dense, less intense chocolate flavor. So its not on my list of favorites, there are better choices.
The staff at Jake's is great, professional and personable with good knowledge of the food and wine that serve you well for dinner. Most of the servers have been here a long time, many for more than twenty years, so they know what they're doing and take pride in a job well done. Ask for Carla or Tony and you're all set for a real Jake's evening.
Be sure to make reservations, it fills up quickly and can have a very long wait. Especially on weekends, or during the summer when there are conventions in town. The bar has a late night menu that offers a number of choices on the cheap, but its usually packed so get there early if you want a table. This is a casual option for upscale dining, but almost everything in Portland is casual [that's not necessarily a good thing . . . jeans at the opera and all]. You'll see prom kids in formal wear, dressed up folks out for a celebration, business people in after work and then the family more at home at an "all you can eat" buffet in for a big night out. Its an interesting mix that adds to the authenticity of the place, so enjoy.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Honolulu: Halekulani Hotel: Le Mer
This is it, the best restaurant on the islands and one of my favorites anywhere. A sleek and elegant setting, beautiful presentation and excellent service all rolled into one perfect dining experience. Le Mer pleases every time, with consistently high standards and gracious hospitality. This is what Bali by the Sea [see previous post] thinks it is, but doesn't come anywhere close in any category . . . right down to the badly outfitted wait staff with Denny's like skills.
An evening at Le Mer always starts off with a glass of champagne and a treat from the kitchen, this time tiny popovers . . . one with lobster and the other salmon. After ordering, an amuse arrived, a seafood aspic with lobster that was the only bobble by the kitchen . . . the texture was a rubber/jello cross that was not pleasing . . . but the flavor was nice. Then on to the amazing dinner:
Seared foie gras with fresh asparagus that was perfectly prepared and had an amazing combination of flavors and textures. Beautiful on the plate and even better to taste.
Fresh truffle on a potato galette with an amazing sauce that had some bacon going on. And with it? Truffle Madeleines! Can you believe it? These were the best and I wanted more . . . the whole dish was absolutely perfect.
Veal medallions on a confit of beans with a Roquefort sauce that was dazzling. Just when I thought I couldn't like anything better than the truffle-surprise, along comes this veal dish with its perfectly balanced flavors and satiny beans and I am again inspired to lick my plate [even though the dining room is dark, I refrained for fear of being asked not to return].
An assortment of sweets followed, with just a touch more champagne, and the evening's indulgence was finished. Not too full. Not too buzzed. Not anything but very happy.
Each course was paired with a wonderful wine thanks to the wine steward and the pace of the meal leisurely but not slow. The service was attentive and well done with one exception . . . my waiter. He may have been new or just not "on" that night, but he was the weak link in the service chain . . . but the slack was evenly picked up by everyone else so it was not a problem and barely evident.
And one more great thing about Le Mer . . . they have a dress code! Yes, a dress code! Meaning that they understand that baseball caps are appropriate only if one is attending a sporting event and that tee shirts and shorts are for the beach. How fortunate that there is still someplace in a resort area that will stand up and say no to the ever encroaching lack of decorum that is justified in the name of casual. Manners shouldn't be left at home when one is on vacation, and neither should appropriate clothing. I guess my assumption there may be incorrect, some of these vacationers probably don't have manners at home, so why would them have them on vacation . . . but that's a commentary for another time. Where is Miss Manners when you need her?
EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE
An evening at Le Mer always starts off with a glass of champagne and a treat from the kitchen, this time tiny popovers . . . one with lobster and the other salmon. After ordering, an amuse arrived, a seafood aspic with lobster that was the only bobble by the kitchen . . . the texture was a rubber/jello cross that was not pleasing . . . but the flavor was nice. Then on to the amazing dinner:
Seared foie gras with fresh asparagus that was perfectly prepared and had an amazing combination of flavors and textures. Beautiful on the plate and even better to taste.
Fresh truffle on a potato galette with an amazing sauce that had some bacon going on. And with it? Truffle Madeleines! Can you believe it? These were the best and I wanted more . . . the whole dish was absolutely perfect.
Veal medallions on a confit of beans with a Roquefort sauce that was dazzling. Just when I thought I couldn't like anything better than the truffle-surprise, along comes this veal dish with its perfectly balanced flavors and satiny beans and I am again inspired to lick my plate [even though the dining room is dark, I refrained for fear of being asked not to return].
An assortment of sweets followed, with just a touch more champagne, and the evening's indulgence was finished. Not too full. Not too buzzed. Not anything but very happy.
Each course was paired with a wonderful wine thanks to the wine steward and the pace of the meal leisurely but not slow. The service was attentive and well done with one exception . . . my waiter. He may have been new or just not "on" that night, but he was the weak link in the service chain . . . but the slack was evenly picked up by everyone else so it was not a problem and barely evident.
And one more great thing about Le Mer . . . they have a dress code! Yes, a dress code! Meaning that they understand that baseball caps are appropriate only if one is attending a sporting event and that tee shirts and shorts are for the beach. How fortunate that there is still someplace in a resort area that will stand up and say no to the ever encroaching lack of decorum that is justified in the name of casual. Manners shouldn't be left at home when one is on vacation, and neither should appropriate clothing. I guess my assumption there may be incorrect, some of these vacationers probably don't have manners at home, so why would them have them on vacation . . . but that's a commentary for another time. Where is Miss Manners when you need her?
EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE
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