What a great spot! Sometimes a place is a real find, the kind of surprise that puts a long lasting smile on your face, and that is what H50 did on three visits. The sleek restaurant and bar are in the Hotel50 on the Portland waterfront, the new incarnation of a dismal Sheraton 5 Points and its even worse predecessor the Riverfront Hotel. Someone with real imagination and flair took the place from dismal to spectacular in a recent renovation, all glass and wood and sparkle that vanquishes the image of everything that went before in this building. Not just a remodel, but a reinvention of the highest order. The bar is beautiful and the staff is welcoming, and the food hits all the right notes without being overwrought. So, here are the highlights:
Braised pork belly served with French toast, seared figs and a savory maple glaze was amazing. Way too rich, just as it should have been, and I could have eaten more but thought better of it. A great combination of flavors and textures that looked wonderful on the plate. An intriguing wild mushroom rice pudding was a very interesting take on the classic sweet version, and though I'm not a rice pudding fan, this was good stuff. Tuna tartar cones, crisp cones filled with tuna, lemon zest, chives, capers and mustard were perfect, reminiscent of those at the French Laundry without the year-long wait for a reservation. And finally, smoked salmon fritters. You know how much I like smoked salmon, and here it was in a fritter deep fried . . . and fried anything is my friend. The parsley cream on the plate was a good counterpoint to the richness of the fritters, and made the plate look great as well. Last but not least, a venison burger on a house made bud with an apple and endive slaw . . . a friend ordered this and I stole most of it. Venison burger? Yes! I ventured beyond my usual wine here and had drink called Pamelo, pepper infused vodka with grapefruit juice. Bring me another, please!
You know its hard for me, but I really don't have anything bad to say about this place except that its location makes parking tough. But its worth the effort and a long walk if necessary to visit this new gem in downtown Portland. Go, more than once, and enjoy this inventive food in a beautiful location. And send your kudos back to the shy but charming Chef Nicholas Yanes, he's doing a great job and needs to hear it. Maybe he'll even make an appearance in the front of the house.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
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