Showing posts with label portland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label portland. Show all posts

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Portland: Driftwood Room at the Hotel deLuxe

This has to be one of the coolest bars in Portland . . . dark, intimate, and feeling like you've just entered the set of Mad Men. Or, maybe Bewitched . . . seems like you could run into Larry, Louise, Samantha and Darrin having a cocktail here on any night. There is a great happy hour menu, with interesting choices that are beyond the usual burger/fries/olives at some other places. My personal favorite is the savory gorgonzola cheesecake, served warm with roasted garlic and bread. It is close to perfect.

The down side of this place is the service, which can only be described as disorganized. There dosen's seem to be a particular server assigned to any given table, it all feels pretty random. And, maybe because of that, nobody takes responsiblity for checking in, taking orders, delivering drinks and food. On our evening one of the bartenders came over and took our drink order, then disappeared. Eventually the drinks arrived, but we had to flag someone down to order the above mentioned cheesecake. Someone else brought the cheesecake, and we asked her for another drink. Ten minutes went by and no drink, so when the original bartender walked by we asked about it and he was like 'oh, yeah' and walked over to the bar and brought the drink to the table . . . it had been sitting there all along and nobody bothered to deliver it. Disorganized and less than concerned about service, that's the take here.

Oh, and one more thing . . . my companion ordered this way: "I'd like a Bombay martini with three olives" and the bartender responded "What kind of vodka do you want?". Really? The BARTENDER? My personal soapbox is that a martini IS gin with a whisper of vermouth . . . and olives! You want onions with that? Then order a Gibson. And if I had wanted vodka, I would have ordered a VODKA MARTINI. Oh, and just because it is served in a martini shell doesn't make it a martini . . . so take your chocolate, pomegranate, coffee and cheese flavored drink and enjoy it . . . but don't call it a martini. OK, getting down off the soapbox now.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Good bye ten01

So last night I was walking with friends to one of my favorite Portland restaurants, ten01. We got there and found it closed, but peering through the glass it wasn't just closed, it was gone. Fixtures dismantled, boxes on the floor, glassware packed away. This elegant space, with its well prepared and forward thinking food, was one of my favoirtes, and a real gem in the Pearl District. Apparently they planned to be closed January 1 & 2 and just never came back. This is a blow to the neighborhood and the Portland dining scene, and I only wish the best to wonderful staff who always took such good care of me. I'll remember the food and experiences for a long time ... especially the spectacular mini ice cream sandwiches made with maple cookies and candied bacon ice cream from one New Year's Eve. Cheers!

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Portland: Hotel50: H50 bistro and bar

What a great spot! Sometimes a place is a real find, the kind of surprise that puts a long lasting smile on your face, and that is what H50 did on three visits. The sleek restaurant and bar are in the Hotel50 on the Portland waterfront, the new incarnation of a dismal Sheraton 5 Points and its even worse predecessor the Riverfront Hotel. Someone with real imagination and flair took the place from dismal to spectacular in a recent renovation, all glass and wood and sparkle that vanquishes the image of everything that went before in this building. Not just a remodel, but a reinvention of the highest order. The bar is beautiful and the staff is welcoming, and the food hits all the right notes without being overwrought. So, here are the highlights:

Braised pork belly served with French toast, seared figs and a savory maple glaze was amazing. Way too rich, just as it should have been, and I could have eaten more but thought better of it. A great combination of flavors and textures that looked wonderful on the plate. An intriguing wild mushroom rice pudding was a very interesting take on the classic sweet version, and though I'm not a rice pudding fan, this was good stuff. Tuna tartar cones, crisp cones filled with tuna, lemon zest, chives, capers and mustard were perfect, reminiscent of those at the French Laundry without the year-long wait for a reservation. And finally, smoked salmon fritters. You know how much I like smoked salmon, and here it was in a fritter deep fried . . . and fried anything is my friend. The parsley cream on the plate was a good counterpoint to the richness of the fritters, and made the plate look great as well. Last but not least, a venison burger on a house made bud with an apple and endive slaw . . . a friend ordered this and I stole most of it. Venison burger? Yes! I ventured beyond my usual wine here and had drink called Pamelo, pepper infused vodka with grapefruit juice. Bring me another, please!

You know its hard for me, but I really don't have anything bad to say about this place except that its location makes parking tough. But its worth the effort and a long walk if necessary to visit this new gem in downtown Portland. Go, more than once, and enjoy this inventive food in a beautiful location. And send your kudos back to the shy but charming Chef Nicholas Yanes, he's doing a great job and needs to hear it. Maybe he'll even make an appearance in the front of the house.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Portland: 1001

Well, I had dinner the other night at 1001 and all I can say is FAAAABULOUS. Wait . . . that was too gay . . . dinner was wonderful? Fantastic? Excellent? No, it really was fabulous! The best meal I’ve had in Portland, or anywhere, for some time. From the amuse all the way through to the dessert the food and service were perfect and I was ready to go back as soon as we left the restaurant. More than anything, I was surprised. I had eaten a couple of times at 1001 last year and found the room beautiful and the staff pleasant, but the food was fussy and trying way too hard to be “cutting edge” [maybe?]. So I was interested to see how things had evolved since the arrival of a new chef and an overhaul of the menu . . . to say that Chef Jack has hit a homerun is an understatement . . . now, everything works and this is suddenly in the top tier of my Portland restaurants. And now, on to the food.

After ordering, which took some time because everything on the menu was tempting, an amuse arrived and it was the perfect foreshadow of things to come in one small dish: savory, balanced and surprising with just a touch of whimsy for good measure. Horseradish panna cota, with a topping of steak tartare, served in a shot glass started the meal on a high note and things only got better. Who would have thought of that combination?

Next came a salad with duck prosciutto, dark and rich and an effective foil to the greens on the plate. The star of this course, however, was a foie gras torchon. Its unctuous texture set off perfectly by a blood orange moutard and pistachio puree. This is another one of those dishes that made me want to lick the plate and then ask for more, but as always I resisted for fear of not being invited back. We then had a potion of seared ahi served with a piquant celery and apple relish that was excellent. All of these dishes proved what we had suspected after the amuse, that the chef is adept at putting surprising combinations on the plate that set each other off in texture, flavor and color, taking full advantage of each.

For my entrée I selected the bacon wrapped quail [well, I would select bacon wrapped anything, no surprise here] served with a mushroom stuffing and a ragout of small beans. I know I am repeating myself, but this too was amazing. The usual problem with the quail that I have encountered is that they tend to get overcooked; not the case here where these little flyers were moist and tender with crisp skin. I had to protect my plate from the marauding forks of my dining companions it was so good.

And just when I thought I could eat no more the dessert menu arrived and we agreed to take a look. Well its hard to resist when the choices were so enticing and so we waded in for more. The star of the table at dessert was a wonderful peanut butter crème brulee . . . . I know, hold on . . . which revealed a layer of berry jam underneath. And, to make things even better, a small glass of chocolate milk came along on the plate. PBJ with chocolate milk, a kid’s delight all dressed up for adults and just as appealing. With some bubbles it was the perfect ending to a really FABAAAABULOUS meal.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE!!!

http://www.ten-01.com/

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Portland: The Rhinelander

The Rhinelander is one of those kitchy places that fascinates and repels at the same time . . . like a train wreck or a public fight between spouses, the question is to look or not and if you choose to look should you enjoy it. It’s the only place in Portland that I know of with a strolling accordionist and a band of singing waiters belting out German drinking songs in between serving pots of fondue and steins of beer. I have wondered what a German tourist would think if some well meaning Portlander brought him to the Rhinelander for a “taste of home”. Probably a combination of amusement, at the realization that much of Oregon [and the US] thinks that this cartoonish piece of Bavaria is what Germany is really like, and horror for the same reason. My reaction would be similar if I thought that the world viewed Hee Haw as an accurate depiction of the “real” America.

But, we’re here to talk about the food and there is plenty of it, starting with the fondue that arrives on the table to kick off the meal. Bluehour does not need to worry here, the fondue is overly salty and tastes of processed cheese, but it is the perfect way to start things off here with chunks of bread and a beer. I wonder if the salty fondue is a way to stimulate the thirst and thus the beer sales, like the peanuts and popcorn that are paraded through the stands at the circus before the soft drinks vendor makes an appearance. After the fondue comes soup or salad and I recommend the lentil soup, a simple and hearty bowl that’s perfect on a winter night. It is savory and tastes of the earth in a peasant kind of way. The plentiful selection of “classic” German entrees is pleasant in a kind of stereotypical way and includes sauerbraten, schnitzel, a variety of sausages and other treats. The portions are large and many include my favorites spatzle [remember, I like the carbohydrates] and sauerkraut. The desserts were for me a disappointment, nothing looked worth the calories and the chocolate mousse that I sampled could have come from a boxed mix . . . the best part about it was its serving dish, a cookie shaped like a cup.

Don’t go head to the Rhinelander for fine dining or a quiet evening, but do go and enjoy this Portland institution for a casual evening with a group of friends who would get the joke and enjoy the experience. The Rhinelander is a guilty pleasure, one of those things that more people really enjoy than actually admit to, and that’s just fine. So go, order a beer and a sausage, and polka if you get the chance, its all in good fun and you’ll smile at the memory.


EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Portland: Carafe

Carafe's setting, across from the downtown Keller Auditorium, is strip mall nondescript; but blink your eyes as you cross the threshold and you are transported to Paris. This wonderful Parisian bistro in the heart of Portland is the closest thing to the French capital on the west coast, and from my experience, some of the bistros in Paris should take note [and a lesson] from the well prepared and thoughtful food and service here. Although a little out of the way, Carafe is well worth the effort and always pleases with its food and atmosphere. Its the perfect place on a cold rainy evening for a fortifying onion soup and red wine or in the summer for a long evening on the patio watching the world go by sipping something cold and nibbling on cheese fries [I know, but they're really good and not like the diner things you're thinking of . . .pommes frites with melted gouda are a whole different plate of deep fried goodness].

In typical bistro fashion there is a wonderful salad frisse aux lardons topped with a poached egg and the perfect vinaigrette. The assiette de cochon is a collection of housemade pork "goodies" that is a great plate for the table to share. Moving on to the main events, the cassoulet is exactly as it should be and an antidote to that winter chill . . . don't have this at lunch or you'll be asleep at your desk in the early afternoon. The bifsteak frites is another dish that is so evocative of a Paris bistro that it can become trite, but here its perfectly prepared and lends credence to what you already know is a well versed kitchen. My favorite thing on the menu, if I had to choose, is the gnocchi gratineed with ham and Gruyere . . . one of those things that I want to roll in but control myself as I want to be invited back.

The pastry chef does equally good work here with an excellent bittersweet chocolate cake, crisp profiteroles with chocolate sauce and a very nice apple napoleon. All well prepared and presented in an unfussy style that is refreshing considering the excesses of spun sugar, sauce designs and other affectations that sometimes overpower the actual dessert on the plate.

I like this place, recommend it and want to eat here often. The staff is great, the food wonderful and the service good, if occasionally slower than I would expect . . . ah, Paris. One other note, if you are attending an event at the Keller make a reservation for dinner and use Carafe's valet service for parking . . . your vehicle will be waiting for you after the performance and a nite cap. And if you're not attending a performance, have dinner at 8:00 just after the theater crowd has departed, the restaurant has sighed a bit in relief, and is ready for more relaxed entertaining. Its worth it on all counts.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Friday, January 25, 2008

Portland: El Gaucho

El Gaucho is one of two local steakhouses [the other being Ringside] that fit into that upper tier of beef purveyors that has been having a renaissance: simple food that is well prepared, no surprises and excellent service. Think Ruth's Chris without the chain feel or Morton's without the pretentious presentation of raw beef and wriggling lobsters. And don't think about Shula's, its not worth mentioning. I have had many a wonderful evening at El Gaucho with perfectly prepared steaks, excellent service and the best Caesar salad around. Not this time. I went on a Sunday evening and the "A" team was definitely NOT in the house. Everything had slipped since my last visit . . . from the hostesses [usually impeccably dressed and attentive, not so tonight] . . . to the waiter [chatty and not even close to unobtrusive or professional] . . . to the Caesar salad [where is Sherwood when you need him?]. Disappointing. Actually, for the price of dinner, REALLY disappointing.

Let's start with the Caesar, prepared table side, which is always fun. This time the balance in the ingredients was off . . . not creamy, too salty and just not that great. It didn't even look right. Sherwood, a stalwart of the Portland restaurant scene for many years and the best captain in the El Gaucho dining room, would have been appalled. Like I said, the "A" team was not on duty so things just weren't the same.

Then there were the steaks, which came flying out of the kitchen before we were finished with the salads. I hate being rushed like that. They were properly cooked, but too salty. The beef was good, but I like to taste the beef and not the salt. Was someone on the line new to using the salt shaker? With the steaks we had baked potatoes with the "full Gaucho" treatment: a quarter pound of butter and beer-cheese sauce . . . nothing wrong here, and we're supporting the Oregon dairy industry too! The menu says that the potato is "fluffed table side" which makes me kind of nervous, but it was good, and I didn't need to smoke when it was over. We also had a side dish of roasted corn with chipotle honey butter that was good, but again, overly salted. The word of the day for all of the food we had: SALTY.

And, since I know that you all appreciate a certain sense of decorum, you'll be pleased to know that the folks here ask gentlemen to remove their baseball caps in the dining room . . . unique for Portland. But alas, a true gentleman would already know to remove his hat indoors and would never have thought to wear a baseball cap to anything but a fast food joint in the first place! And I won't even begin to talk about raggedy jeans and tee shirts in a fine dining establishment. Its just too much.

This is a beautiful room with a retro feel that is comfortable and inviting and filled with promise. I will give it another try down the line, but not on a Sunday, and let you know what happens. For a place that is referred to as "El Gouge-O" for its stratospheric prices, there should never be an off night. Hopefully next time it will be back to its more respectable self.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Monday, January 21, 2008

Portland: 23Hoyt

I was looking forward to a visit to 23Hoyt as its a cool space and a part of a group of good restaurants here in Portland. The space is sleek and feels comfortable, interesting stag candle holders on the bar and nice people. Dinner was good, not spectacular, but generally good.

We started with the "naked ravioli" which were spinach dumplings with butter and cheese. It was a nice preparation and very tasty, everyone enjoyed them. Then a salad that wasn't particularly interesting, but was just OK. The star of the show was the entree, a wonderful chicken paprikash . . . perfectly cooked chicken in an amazing paprika sauce. It was earthy and spicy and a great dish for a cold evening. Dessert was a strudel with a cherry ice cream . . . really boring and a disappointment. The strudel was no better than something from the freezer section at the local grocery store and the ice cream was more "interesting" than good. The chicken was worth a return trip, otherwise the dinner was non remarkable.

Two other comments about the experience. First, the music . . . a guy playing the piano and singing . . . he was awful; loud and off key in a way that set your teeth on edge. The staff was even looking askance at him, so I'm not sure what was up but he shouldn't be invited back. Second was the service . . . it started out somewhat leisurely and degenerated into downright slow and disorganized. There were long waits between courses, the server seemed less than engaged, and dishes weren't cleared in a timely manner. When it was time for dessert and coffee the dessert was delivered but the coffee didn't arrive until after everyone had finished eating. I don't know if this was a problem with the server or bar or kitchen, but it was not well coordinated and the lapse not even acknowledged. I expected a much better overall service experience here and was disappointed, really lackadaisical. I'll give 23Hoyt another try, but I'm not in a hurry to do so.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Portland: Jake's Famous Crawfish

OK, I know I wrote about Jake's as my first blog entry, but I don't think I did them justice and want to tell you about this place again. This is Portland's oldest restaurant, a classic seafood house and the mothership for all of the McCormick and Schmick's places around the country. While the clones are not that successful, real Jake's is a winner every time. This is the place for a real Portland experience with fresh seafood, wait staff in white jackets and always a hub of activity in the bar. If you live here you know, if you're visiting go and if you are in town for business, take clients. Successful and not pretentious, straight forward food and good service.

So, about that bar . . . fresh squeezed juices for the drinks, a large selection of liquors, good beer on tap and in the bottle. The bartenders are great, efficient and friendly, and always make you feel welcome. The best of the best are Bobby and Bert who will remember you and your drink after a visit and make you feel like a regular even if you're only in the bar twice a year. They will make your drink and give you advice about the menu while dealing with a bizillion other things and you'll still feel like the only one in the bar. Excellent service and great people.

While you can get the entire menu in the bar, go to the dining room for the full experience. The menu is printed twice daily depending on what seafood is fresh and available . . . all of that is listed at the top and can be prepared any way you like . . . with wonderful classic preparations of your favorites. There are usually at least six different kinds of oysters to choose from to start things off and many other appetizers for those not inclined to slurp down raw bivalves. Try the crab claws [ask for drawn butter {what exactly is drawn butter, anyway . . . is it a picture of butter? an imitation? is lead involved?} for dipping] or one of the chowders. Entrees can be grilled fish with interesting sauces [swordfish with dill beurre blanc], wonderful salmon [horseradish crusted or stuffed with crab and shrimp and brie] or a steak for our non-seafood friends. The etouffe is wonderful, filled with crayfish tails and chicken [I once took a friend from NoLa there and he ordered the etouffe . . . took one bite and said "there must be on old black woman back there in the kitchen, this is better than home" . . . an excellent testimony].

And then there's always dessert. Purists will opt for the three-berry cobbler, served warm and tasting like a summer day in the Pacific northwest. I am drawn to the banana cream pie drizzled with caramel sauce or the key lime pie, personally. Their chocolate truffle cake used to be wonderful, but a couple of years ago they tinkered with the recipe and its not as good . . . not as moist or dense, less intense chocolate flavor. So its not on my list of favorites, there are better choices.

The staff at Jake's is great, professional and personable with good knowledge of the food and wine that serve you well for dinner. Most of the servers have been here a long time, many for more than twenty years, so they know what they're doing and take pride in a job well done. Ask for Carla or Tony and you're all set for a real Jake's evening.

Be sure to make reservations, it fills up quickly and can have a very long wait. Especially on weekends, or during the summer when there are conventions in town. The bar has a late night menu that offers a number of choices on the cheap, but its usually packed so get there early if you want a table. This is a casual option for upscale dining, but almost everything in Portland is casual [that's not necessarily a good thing . . . jeans at the opera and all]. You'll see prom kids in formal wear, dressed up folks out for a celebration, business people in after work and then the family more at home at an "all you can eat" buffet in for a big night out. Its an interesting mix that adds to the authenticity of the place, so enjoy.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE