Thursday, April 17, 2008

Reno: Harrah's: The Steakhouse

This is one of those old classics, in the best sense of that word, that’s been around forever and continues to impress with each visit. When I’m in Reno and go here for dinner I always feel like I might run into Darren, Samantha, Larry and Louise out for a big night on the town. The ambiance is subdued, quiet and sleek; happily a long way from the noise and bright lights of the casino upstairs, and the staff is the epitome of gracious professional service. Michael, the Maitre 'd, has been at the helm forever [well, as long as I’ve been dining there, which is more than 25 years]. And even though my visits are not frequent, he remembers me and is always welcoming.

The food here is as classy as the surroundings, everything one would expect from the best restaurant in Reno. The Steakhouse is justly famous for its creamy five onion soup, served in a giant onion with a crust of bubbling cheese, it’s the perfect way to begin the meal. I could actually eat more than one serving, but have resisted because the steaks are so good here that I don’t want to miss out. I’ve never had anything but a perfect steak here, and I’ve had many over the years. New York, fillet, prime rib . . . it’s all good. And, if you ask nicely they’ll prepare any of the steaks Oscar style . . . crab and Bearnaise, what could be better. The cool thing about the food here is that the presentation is a step that of most other steakhouses, beautifully prepared vegetables and starch, not just a slab of meat and a baked potato. Its fine dining that happens to be steak, and they know exactly what they’re doing. I have usually eaten too much to even think about ordering dessert, but at the end of the meal a very cool dish, steaming with dry ice, arrives at the table with house made truffles and chocolates and I cannot resist. It’s a perfect ending.

As an aside, this place is also for lunch on weekdays where that onion soup is available and there is a nice selection of salads and smaller entrees. Not listed on the menu is the Snoopy Salad . . . I don’t know where that name came from . . . but it’s a great combination of what seems like random things from the kitchen, and it along with the onion soup is a perfect lunch. So by having both lunch and dinner here I get to have the onion soup twice and that makes everything OK, even if my luck at the tables hasn’t been that good.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.harrahsreno.com/casinos/harrahs-reno/restaurants-dining/harrahs-steak-house-detail.html

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Orlando: Disneyworld: Grand Floridian: Boat Dock

One of the things that people sometimes don’t realize about the Disney experience is that it’s not just about the theme parks [as cool as they are]. The Disney World complex is huge, encompassing many square miles, and provides such varied activities as horseback riding in the woods, fishing on the lake, hikes, water parks, weddings, pirate cruises for kids, and even cooking classes. The thing to remember is that this is Disney, and the folks here are trained to make things happen for guests, and they do. Which is how I ended up in a pontoon boat on the lake one recent March evening. It all started when I began wondering about a unique way to entertain clients while in Orlando and thought of fireworks. As much as I love going to dinner, sometimes change is good and what better place to try an adventure than in the world of Disney.

So I picked up the phone and had a chat with my new friends at resort guest services, and here’s the result: a truly magical evening on the lake in a pontoon boat to view the fireworks above the Magic Kingdom. The event started when we went to the marina at the Grand Floridian Hotel to meet our boat and captain [yes, captain . . . you didn’t think they’d let me drive a boat in the dark with ten unsuspecting passengers]. We headed out for a tour of the lake in the gathering darkness, in time to see the floating parade of lighted barges that tours in front of the lakeside resorts each evening. We then sailed over to a perfect spot off shore from the Magic Kingdom, the train station and Cinderella’s Castle in clear view, and waited for the show to begin. Lights in the park dimmed, the music started [heard over a sound system in our boat] and then the blast of the first fireworks. The view was amazing, distant enough from the fireworks to see everything in the frame of the castle with reflections off of the water and the lights of the resorts all around. We were even positioned well enough to see Tinker Bell make her flight from the top of the castle, which was truly amazing. And what a great way to enjoy the fireworks, no crowds!

And if all of that weren’t enough there was the food! The Grand Floridian private dining staff happily provided just the right touches to make the event even more memorable: chocolate dipped strawberries, miniature pastries and, of course, champagne. Then there was coffee for the trip back to the dock.

This event was a great success: the fireworks were fantastic, the desserts wonderful and everyone reclaimed a little of their inner child with smiles all around. While I planned this evening with clients in mind, this would be a great adventure for a group of friends or family visiting Disney World.

DoThisOrNot: DO THIS

Orlando: Disneyworld: Disney's Boardwalk: Flying Fish

Back to Florida for another conference and the Disney craziness that I love, and more chances to eat well and find the unexpected in this over the top world. This time its off to the Boardwalk area, a complex on a lake designed to simulate a classic beach-front boardwalk of an earlier time. The star restaurant at this locale is Flying Fish, a bustling seafood house with a whimsical interior design and thoughtfully prepared food. As with any Disney place, look around you for the details that will make you smile, particularly the golden fish parasailing from the rafters. Then look at your plate, it will make you smile too.

The menu has a nice selection of seafood entrees and includes some beef for the non-fish-friendly. This evening I had a dish of seared sea scallops presented over a risotto with parmesan, fresh peas and pea tendrils. It was an excellent combination, not too heavy but filling and the combination of flavors and textures worked well. The scallops were a tad overcooked to my taste, not ruined, but just beyond that point of perfection. The risotto was on the mark and the real star of the presentation. Others at my table had the “signature” dish which is a snapper crusted in potatoes and sautéed. It’s a nice preparation, looks good on the fish-shaped plate and was very popular. I was less convinced as I found the whole thing kind of bland, but that’s probably just me. There are a number of desserts on the menu, but none of them were enticing enough to call us away from finishing the meal with the cheese plate. The five cheeses arrived beautifully plated and with interesting condiments, including a kumquat marmalade that was a perfect foil to the blue cheese on the plate.

This is not my favorite restaurant in the area, but it can provide a fun evening of nice food in interesting surroundings. Drawbacks include the usual troops of children with Mcdonald’s level restaurant skills [even later in the evening, this being spring break], their associated and equally challenged parental units, and a generally high decibel level. This is not a place to expect quiet conversation or seclusion, but without those expectations give it a go.


EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

New Orelans: Cafe du Monde



If you’re going to the Big Easy, Café du Monde is one of those “must go” places in spite of the fact that it can be crawling with tourists. Go early in the morning or late at night, when the coffee is steaming in the crisp cool air and you’ll encounter more of a local crowd. An interesting thing happens as you walk from Canal Street toward the Café, pay close attention and you’ll be able to find the place even if you’ve never been there before . . . the sidewalk begins to change color. At first it’s just a hint of white, but as you get closer to the café your path becomes increasingly easy to follow, dusted with powdered sugar that has fallen from the beignets that people have picked up from the take away window to eat while walking. Like crumbs dropped in the forest to provide a trail home, powdered sugar dusts the sidewalk in increasing density until you are on the doorstep of the famous Café.

It’s easy to order here, the choice is really only how many of the beignets to have and more is usually better. These hot and crispy pillows of fried dough arrive right from the fryer adrift in powdered sugar and ready to provide that guilty pleasure that only deep fat can offer. An order of beignets and a café au lait and you have either begun or ended your day in fine style. Maybe add some orange juice, but probably not, its all about the coffee and dough here. And a perfect combination they are each and every time.

As I said earlier, this was my first visit to New Orleans since Katrina and I was regularly reminded of the changed demographic that the storm left in its wake. Here at Café du Monde the native New Orleanians were gone, replaced by a newly arrived crew of immigrants with very limited English proficiency and none of the tradition of gracious hospitality and fun that always marked previous visits. I may as well have been in a Dunkin Donuts in New York City. As New Orleans continues to evolve and reinvent itself during its tragically protracted recovery, it will be interesting to see what new traditions may emerge, and sadly, what will be lost.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE


http://www.cafedumonde.com/

Sunday, March 23, 2008

New Orleans: Camellia Grill

A lovely streetcar ride uptown [or a cab if you’re in a hurry] takes you to this local favorite, and nationally known, diner. Camellia Grill reopened after a too-long closure due to Katrina, its back in full swing offering the best of real diner food with all of the trimmings. There are no tables here, just a serpentine counter that is usually full of folks happily munching omelets, burgers, chili and fountain concoctions prepared right behind the counter. The staff is friendly and calls the regulars by name, but everyone is made to feel welcome when they get a stool. When the stools are full, those waiting for a spot sit on a long bench along the wall [in strict order of arrival] and sometimes that bench is full up too, so a line forms out the door. All of that means that everyone knows this is the place to be, and it is worth the wait.

This is authentic diner food, the kind that you crave after too much fancy stuff, and nothing like the food at those upscale faux diners like Buckhead Diner in Atlanta or its twin Fog City Diner in San Francisco. The burgers are great, and I love the buns . . . which are soft and squishy in just the right way and absorb the juices and condiments. The fries too, hot out of the grease, are just what the doctor ordered. But to take them to a higher level, have them doused with chili and cheese and you’ll be in diner heaven. Get a chocolate shake to wash things down and you’re all set. Until its time for dessert, where the apple pie shines, warmed up on the grill and paired with vanilla ice cream. Who could ask for anything more? Breakfast is available all the time, so if you’re in the mood for an omelet at after a night of partying in the Quarter this is the place to be.

So when in the Big Easy, head uptown to the Camellia and support this local institution, and have some fun as well. If you take a cab, be sure to have the address with you . . . and make sure that the cabbie knows to turn left off of Canal . . . I have discovered that there is a whole new cadre of cabbies that arrived after Katrina and they are not from New Orleans and don’t really know where things are outside of the major hotels and the French Quarter. It’s another shame that the post-Katrina migration took with it the collective knowledge of the city and its colorful history that was a topic of conversation and point of pride for cabbies as they drove you to your destination. I took several cab rides while I was in town and none of the drivers had been in town very long, had any real feel for the city or its history and for the most part did not speak English well enough to carry on a conversation. It was sad.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.camelliagrill.net/

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

New Orleans: Arnaud's

Here I am in NoLa where the music makes your feet wanna dance and the food makes you lose control. Well, maybe the alcohol helps with that too. Either way its a great place to visit, but the ravages of Katrina are still starkly visible. Come and enjoy, support the city and her people, but be a little careful too. Last night I ate at Arnaud's, one of the classic French infused places in the Quarter and it was exactly what you would expect. Old building, beautiful space, wonderful food . . . and too many tourists. So, here's the secret. . . walk past the front door, go two doors down and enter the French 75 Bar, which is a part of Arnaud's [don't go to the first bar, which is kind of a holding area for the restaurant] and serves the same wonderful menu. Its quiet, elegant, the bartenders [Chris is great] know how to make that French 75 for you and you'll have a great time. Tell Chef Tommy that I sent you.

I started the meal off with a hot dish of crab and cream cheese and spices served with toast. It was rich and tasted of crab in just the right way. The portion was small, just enough to get things going without filling up, and its a perfect companion for a crisp white wine. For the main course Chris recommended the trout amandine and he was right . . . perfectly fried trout with a butter sauce fragrant with sliced almonds. The almonds were crunchy and plentiful, unlike what I have had elsewhere, and the dish was classic cooking at its best. Along with the trout I ordered the pommes souffle . . . a somewhat tricky preparation of sliced potatoes that are fried twice . . . where the second dip in the hot fat causes the potatoes to puff. This is a preparation that I first learned about from Julia Child, but had never seen in person, and these little crisp pillows were wonderful. Try them for sure. Maybe two orders just to make sure they are as good as you think they are. For dessert a crepe stuffed with praline, topped with just enough whipped cream. The balance of flavors and textures in the meal was perfect, the progression leisurely ,and the experience a memorable slice of New Orleans. Check this place out for sure.

A reminder, this is in the French Quarter and it is rowdy, to say the least. During my quiet diversion a fight broke out just outside the door . . . involving pushing, punches, yelling and a baseball bat . . . that had to be broken up and was not pretty. The bartender adeptly bolted the door as things heated up so we were a protected audience, but its not an unusual happening in the alcohol fueled haze that is Bourbon street after dark. Just pay attention.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.arnauds.com/

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Portland: 1001

Well, I had dinner the other night at 1001 and all I can say is FAAAABULOUS. Wait . . . that was too gay . . . dinner was wonderful? Fantastic? Excellent? No, it really was fabulous! The best meal I’ve had in Portland, or anywhere, for some time. From the amuse all the way through to the dessert the food and service were perfect and I was ready to go back as soon as we left the restaurant. More than anything, I was surprised. I had eaten a couple of times at 1001 last year and found the room beautiful and the staff pleasant, but the food was fussy and trying way too hard to be “cutting edge” [maybe?]. So I was interested to see how things had evolved since the arrival of a new chef and an overhaul of the menu . . . to say that Chef Jack has hit a homerun is an understatement . . . now, everything works and this is suddenly in the top tier of my Portland restaurants. And now, on to the food.

After ordering, which took some time because everything on the menu was tempting, an amuse arrived and it was the perfect foreshadow of things to come in one small dish: savory, balanced and surprising with just a touch of whimsy for good measure. Horseradish panna cota, with a topping of steak tartare, served in a shot glass started the meal on a high note and things only got better. Who would have thought of that combination?

Next came a salad with duck prosciutto, dark and rich and an effective foil to the greens on the plate. The star of this course, however, was a foie gras torchon. Its unctuous texture set off perfectly by a blood orange moutard and pistachio puree. This is another one of those dishes that made me want to lick the plate and then ask for more, but as always I resisted for fear of not being invited back. We then had a potion of seared ahi served with a piquant celery and apple relish that was excellent. All of these dishes proved what we had suspected after the amuse, that the chef is adept at putting surprising combinations on the plate that set each other off in texture, flavor and color, taking full advantage of each.

For my entrée I selected the bacon wrapped quail [well, I would select bacon wrapped anything, no surprise here] served with a mushroom stuffing and a ragout of small beans. I know I am repeating myself, but this too was amazing. The usual problem with the quail that I have encountered is that they tend to get overcooked; not the case here where these little flyers were moist and tender with crisp skin. I had to protect my plate from the marauding forks of my dining companions it was so good.

And just when I thought I could eat no more the dessert menu arrived and we agreed to take a look. Well its hard to resist when the choices were so enticing and so we waded in for more. The star of the table at dessert was a wonderful peanut butter crème brulee . . . . I know, hold on . . . which revealed a layer of berry jam underneath. And, to make things even better, a small glass of chocolate milk came along on the plate. PBJ with chocolate milk, a kid’s delight all dressed up for adults and just as appealing. With some bubbles it was the perfect ending to a really FABAAAABULOUS meal.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE!!!

http://www.ten-01.com/

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Portland: The Rhinelander

The Rhinelander is one of those kitchy places that fascinates and repels at the same time . . . like a train wreck or a public fight between spouses, the question is to look or not and if you choose to look should you enjoy it. It’s the only place in Portland that I know of with a strolling accordionist and a band of singing waiters belting out German drinking songs in between serving pots of fondue and steins of beer. I have wondered what a German tourist would think if some well meaning Portlander brought him to the Rhinelander for a “taste of home”. Probably a combination of amusement, at the realization that much of Oregon [and the US] thinks that this cartoonish piece of Bavaria is what Germany is really like, and horror for the same reason. My reaction would be similar if I thought that the world viewed Hee Haw as an accurate depiction of the “real” America.

But, we’re here to talk about the food and there is plenty of it, starting with the fondue that arrives on the table to kick off the meal. Bluehour does not need to worry here, the fondue is overly salty and tastes of processed cheese, but it is the perfect way to start things off here with chunks of bread and a beer. I wonder if the salty fondue is a way to stimulate the thirst and thus the beer sales, like the peanuts and popcorn that are paraded through the stands at the circus before the soft drinks vendor makes an appearance. After the fondue comes soup or salad and I recommend the lentil soup, a simple and hearty bowl that’s perfect on a winter night. It is savory and tastes of the earth in a peasant kind of way. The plentiful selection of “classic” German entrees is pleasant in a kind of stereotypical way and includes sauerbraten, schnitzel, a variety of sausages and other treats. The portions are large and many include my favorites spatzle [remember, I like the carbohydrates] and sauerkraut. The desserts were for me a disappointment, nothing looked worth the calories and the chocolate mousse that I sampled could have come from a boxed mix . . . the best part about it was its serving dish, a cookie shaped like a cup.

Don’t go head to the Rhinelander for fine dining or a quiet evening, but do go and enjoy this Portland institution for a casual evening with a group of friends who would get the joke and enjoy the experience. The Rhinelander is a guilty pleasure, one of those things that more people really enjoy than actually admit to, and that’s just fine. So go, order a beer and a sausage, and polka if you get the chance, its all in good fun and you’ll smile at the memory.


EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Portland: Carafe

Carafe's setting, across from the downtown Keller Auditorium, is strip mall nondescript; but blink your eyes as you cross the threshold and you are transported to Paris. This wonderful Parisian bistro in the heart of Portland is the closest thing to the French capital on the west coast, and from my experience, some of the bistros in Paris should take note [and a lesson] from the well prepared and thoughtful food and service here. Although a little out of the way, Carafe is well worth the effort and always pleases with its food and atmosphere. Its the perfect place on a cold rainy evening for a fortifying onion soup and red wine or in the summer for a long evening on the patio watching the world go by sipping something cold and nibbling on cheese fries [I know, but they're really good and not like the diner things you're thinking of . . .pommes frites with melted gouda are a whole different plate of deep fried goodness].

In typical bistro fashion there is a wonderful salad frisse aux lardons topped with a poached egg and the perfect vinaigrette. The assiette de cochon is a collection of housemade pork "goodies" that is a great plate for the table to share. Moving on to the main events, the cassoulet is exactly as it should be and an antidote to that winter chill . . . don't have this at lunch or you'll be asleep at your desk in the early afternoon. The bifsteak frites is another dish that is so evocative of a Paris bistro that it can become trite, but here its perfectly prepared and lends credence to what you already know is a well versed kitchen. My favorite thing on the menu, if I had to choose, is the gnocchi gratineed with ham and Gruyere . . . one of those things that I want to roll in but control myself as I want to be invited back.

The pastry chef does equally good work here with an excellent bittersweet chocolate cake, crisp profiteroles with chocolate sauce and a very nice apple napoleon. All well prepared and presented in an unfussy style that is refreshing considering the excesses of spun sugar, sauce designs and other affectations that sometimes overpower the actual dessert on the plate.

I like this place, recommend it and want to eat here often. The staff is great, the food wonderful and the service good, if occasionally slower than I would expect . . . ah, Paris. One other note, if you are attending an event at the Keller make a reservation for dinner and use Carafe's valet service for parking . . . your vehicle will be waiting for you after the performance and a nite cap. And if you're not attending a performance, have dinner at 8:00 just after the theater crowd has departed, the restaurant has sighed a bit in relief, and is ready for more relaxed entertaining. Its worth it on all counts.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Orlando: Disneyworld: Grand Floridian: Victoria and Albert's

OK, all I can say is amazing. This is the jewel of dining at Disney for many reasons, not the least of which is the serene setting and the dress code. An adult oasis of calm and charm, in the spectacular Grand Floridian Hotel, which is a Disney knock-off of the Hotel Del Mar in the San Diego area. The hotel is typical Disney over-the-top, but tucked away on the second floor is this reservations only, jacket required treat. Come prepared to spend the evening, the seven course meal is extravagant in all the right ways and just what the surroundings demand. Sit back and let it wash over you as a tonic from the frenetic activity just outside the doors, and be sure to indulge in the wine pairing, which makes a good thing that much better. So, here's a look at some of the choices you may have during the evening:

After contemplating the beautiful menu an amuse arrived with some sparkling wine and the festivities began. Seared tuna and tartar . . . beautiful and tasting of the sea, with pickled papaya and jicama. Braised Kobe short ribs with roasted mushrooms. Seared Foie Gras on brioche toast with a sauce of cherries that was absolutely perfect. A gamebird consomme as an interlude and on to guinea fowl with asparagus, morels and porcinis that was perfect . . . but what is a guinea fowl anyway . . . are they those cute grey birds one sees at the zoo sometimes? Best not to think about it I suppose. Herb crusted lamb with gnocchi [I love gnocchi] and roasted garlic. And then a cheese course! A dress code and a cheese course, its almost too much to bear, but I held up to the challenge. Dessert offered a kona chocolate souffle, tropical fruit mousse [guests from hawaii, perhaps?], tanzani chocolate mousse. As with the entire menu, so many choices and all wonderful. My favorites were the foie gras and the guinea fowl, but everything at our table was beautifully presented and well prepared.

For a celebratory dinner while visiting the Mouse [happily there are no character appearances here . . . although for special occasions those Disney folks can do anything], a quiet time away from the children [I understand Disney has a sitter service] or just some good old fashioned indulgence this is the place. Make a reservation, leave the flip flops behind and enjoy an evening that you'll not soon forget. Oh, and remember, no matter how well your team is doing a baseball cap is not a sign of anything but bad taste in a fine dining establishment. And the folks here will tell you so!


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Orlando: Disneyworld: Animal Kingdom Lodge: Jiko

OK, so I know that now you’re all rolling your eyes because I’m going to talk about a restaurant in a “real” Disney property in a Disney hotel. One of the things that people don’t sometimes know is that the higher end Disney hotels each have a fine dining room, and they are usually quite good. Most of the restaurants are themed to the hotel, and the hotels themselves are the usual Disney over the top everything. And amazingly, the food in most instances holds up to the theme and everything else that is going on in the place. The dividend is that if you dine later in the evening at these fine dining spots there are usually fewer children around . . . they’ve been at the parks all day and are already in bed. The stereotype of Disney being all fast food burgers and cotton candy no longer holds true at both the hotels and in the theme parks. What a great idea. Now, on to the first of these restaurants that we’ll be talking about, Jiko.

Jiko is located in Disney’s Animal Kingdom Hotel, a huge fantasy safari lodge with some really beautiful decorative touches [check out the chandeliers made from Zulu shields in the grand hall] and a rear terrace that overlooks the animal park where giraffes and other animals are visible at close range. Jiko is on the lower level of the hotel and features African fusion cuisine and a wine list from South Africa. The food is flavorful, inventive, and beautifully presented and the staff, many from Africa, are a lovely accompaniment to the experience.

So now, on to the food. My favorite entrée is the short rib, which is prepared in a coffee based sauce and is slow cooked so that it falls off the bone. The short rib is accompanied by a potato dish that is a mixture of white potatoes and sweet potatoes. I actually prefer as a side dish the macaroni and cheese . . . I am convinced that the mettle of a restaurant can be judged by its macaroni and cheese and this stuff is flying high . . . its baked and cheesy and creamy and I want to roll in it. The starters here are equally fine including an asparagus soup with a curry crème and pistachios and a salad with a very cool watermelon vinegarette. Desserts are equally successful, tasty and beautifully plated. I like the chocolate cake especially. But the stars here are the ice creams, prepared in house and excellent. Ask for a sampler of the ice creams including the sour cream [rich and voluptuous] and lavender [light and floral]. Its all good here, go an enjoy a rich and unique experience. And oh, the wines . . . the list is all South African and is deep in all categories. The staff is knowledgeable and will happily explain and recommend some of these unique labels.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Orlando: Downtown Disney: Wolfgang Puck Cafe

Well, I know that some of you out there may not be Orlando or Disney fans when it comes to dining [or anything, for that matter], but I have to tell you that I travel there frequently on business and always have a good time and eat very well. And, one of my favorites is the Wolfgang Puck place at Downtown Disney [I know, amazing place to find fine dining]. But, don't be fooled into thinking that the large and loud downstairs space is the place to be, make a reservation for the beautiful and much sleeker Dining Room upstairs. Its only open for dinner and you'll have less of a chance of being surrounded by a clump of ill mannered children and their badly dressed parents. And there's something to be said for that at the "Happiest Place On Earth" [wouldn't you pay triple the admission price for the Magic Kingdom if it was a special day for those over 25 only?]. But we're here to talk about the food . . .

I am addicted to the Gnocchi with Braised Boar Bolognese. Its actually listed as an appetizer, but I am proud to report that I have on more than one occasion eaten two portions. Happily. Rumor has it that it will soon be removed from the menu because its not something that our little Austrian friend came up with; a really bad idea Mr. Puck. The Caesar salad is always well spiced and fresh, exactly the right combination. If I can move away from the gnocchi and get an entree, I like the shrimp with lemon risotto. Or the roast chicken, which is crisp and juicy and perfectly cooked. I'm less enamored with the "Original Veal 'Wienerschnitzel'", which has arrived overcooked and kind of tough. And, I'd rather have it with spatzle. But that's just me.

The dessert menu is nonremarkable, which is surprising considering how 'serious' this restaurant and its namesake take themselves. Carrot cake? The Baked Alaska is OK, but nothing to write home about. Last time I just had some of the ice cream with caramel sauce and it was perfect. Perhaps just a glass of bubbles and a piece or four of chocolate will do the trick.

As always there are things that take a place to a higher level and in the case of The Dining Room those 'things’ come in the form of Ani and Larry, the two wonderful bartenders. Even though I get to dine there infrequently, they always remember me and make me feel welcome. Good conversation between making drinks, tasteful evaluation of the clientele [Ani] and laughs all around make for an excellent evening. They are the icing on the cake of this restaurant.

EatHereOrNot:
EAT HERE

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Detroit: Coach Insignia

Well, the only time I've ever eaten at a higher altitude was in a airplane . . . this steakhouse soars 70+ floors above Detroit with stunning views of the city [which I think looks better after dark] and across the river to Canada. Prices for restaurants of this type usually mirror the height of the building or the expanse of the view, and Coach Insignia is no exception . . . stratospheric. As with all restaurants with spectacular views there is usually a conundrum regarding which is better . . . the food or the view. The food shouldn't distract from the view, but neither should the view be an excuse for mediocre food and service. The view won out here, with poorly prepared food and sporadic service marking our dining experience.

After a vertigo-inducing rocket of an elevator ride, we began the evening at the bar for drinks and a first look at the amazing view. We settled in for a cocktail and decided to have their signature appetizer as well, "lobster corn dogs". Yes, deep fried lobster on a stick! It arrived hot and crisp and very tasty, proving again that you can [and maybe should] try frying anything at least once. It was also at the bar that we encountered the first service misstep of the evening in the form of a very pleasant, but overly chatty, bartender who kept inserting herself into our conversation. Some chat is good, but we had had a long day and needed to do some reflection and were regularly interrupted by our friendly bearer of libations.

Then it was on to the dining room for the main event, at a beautiful table with that perfect view across the river. We started with salads, the Chop-Chop [pretty boring, mostly lettuce with sparse dressing] and the Autumn Salad [poached pear, bleu cheese, baby spinach and caramelized shallot] which was beautifully presented and offered a sophisticated blend of flavors that turned out to be the star of the evening. Then there were the steaks . . . which I'm sorry to report reminded me of a Sizzler. These were not the steaks that one would expect from a restaurant of this pretense, and to compound things there were not cooked as ordered. The worst example was a steak that was ordered medium-well that arrived from the kitchen barely warm inside and much less cooked than the other steaks at the table which were ordered medium-rare. When the undercooked steak was sent back for more fire it returned barely changed, as if the kitchen wasn't paying attention or was trying to make a statement about how they thought steak should be ordered. Bad form for sure. The side dishes of sautéed mushrooms and scalloped potatoes were serviceable, but not memorable. This is basic food folks, nothing fancy or difficult to prepare, and with attention to detail should be wonderful in the best sense of comfort food. Somewhere along the way that lesson was missed by the Coach Insigna.

The service, unfortunately, matched the food. Our waiter was pleasant but not always around when needed. Water glasses weren't filled or plates cleared with any care. Then an overly solicitous wine steward made the proceedings almost like a SNL skit. Maybe it’s me, but I have not had much luck eating at steakhouses recently and my karma continued here. The view is wonderful, the restaurant beautiful [but why doesn't it rotate?] but nothing else about the place comes up to that level. If I am in Detroit again I'll go up for a drink, sitting at a table and not the bar, have an appetizer and enjoy the sunset view. Then I'll take the elevator back to earth and find a good restaurant for dinner.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Detroit: Mosaic

This place, interestingly enough, was recommended by another restaurant that was booked for a private party on the night we wanted to go. The competition said Mosaic was great . . . maybe they were trying to look good in comparison, but this was disappointing to the point of yuck. The esthetic of the place was reminiscent of a disco, lots of bright metal and colored glass, with just a touch of sleaze . . . this is upscale dining?



Now on to the food, which turned out to be similar to the decor. How convenient. We started with the salmon carpaccio which was tasty but did not match the menu description. I hate that! When did "traditional accompaniments" become chunky avocado semi-salsa? I liked the dish, but like to have what shows up on my plate to be what I ordered from the menu . . . unless the dish is called "Smoked Salmon Surprise" or something. Then came lamb chops served on a potato gallette with an artichoke ragu-something. The lamb was OK, just lamb chops, no real detectable seasonings, but OK. The potato thing that was served under the lamb was tepid at best, and kind of pastey. The best part of the preparation was the artichoke ragu, well seasoned and HOT. For dessert we ordered the chocolate fondue . . . what can be better than your own personal bucket of chocolate? The fondue was good, and hot, served with fruit, cake and brownies for dippinng. The fruit was fine, the pound cake dry and sandy and the brownies stale. But there's nothing wrong with eating chocolate fondue with a spoon . . . a nice dessert all by itself.



This is one of those dining experiences that when we talked about it after leaving the restaurant said "was that weird or what?" and "did you like the food?". And the answers would be "yes" and "not really". So, I'm sure there must be better places to eat in Detroit and I look forward to checking them out on my next trip. I guess the take home lesson here is . . . don't eat in a disco.



EatHereOrNot: NOT

Friday, January 25, 2008

Portland: El Gaucho

El Gaucho is one of two local steakhouses [the other being Ringside] that fit into that upper tier of beef purveyors that has been having a renaissance: simple food that is well prepared, no surprises and excellent service. Think Ruth's Chris without the chain feel or Morton's without the pretentious presentation of raw beef and wriggling lobsters. And don't think about Shula's, its not worth mentioning. I have had many a wonderful evening at El Gaucho with perfectly prepared steaks, excellent service and the best Caesar salad around. Not this time. I went on a Sunday evening and the "A" team was definitely NOT in the house. Everything had slipped since my last visit . . . from the hostesses [usually impeccably dressed and attentive, not so tonight] . . . to the waiter [chatty and not even close to unobtrusive or professional] . . . to the Caesar salad [where is Sherwood when you need him?]. Disappointing. Actually, for the price of dinner, REALLY disappointing.

Let's start with the Caesar, prepared table side, which is always fun. This time the balance in the ingredients was off . . . not creamy, too salty and just not that great. It didn't even look right. Sherwood, a stalwart of the Portland restaurant scene for many years and the best captain in the El Gaucho dining room, would have been appalled. Like I said, the "A" team was not on duty so things just weren't the same.

Then there were the steaks, which came flying out of the kitchen before we were finished with the salads. I hate being rushed like that. They were properly cooked, but too salty. The beef was good, but I like to taste the beef and not the salt. Was someone on the line new to using the salt shaker? With the steaks we had baked potatoes with the "full Gaucho" treatment: a quarter pound of butter and beer-cheese sauce . . . nothing wrong here, and we're supporting the Oregon dairy industry too! The menu says that the potato is "fluffed table side" which makes me kind of nervous, but it was good, and I didn't need to smoke when it was over. We also had a side dish of roasted corn with chipotle honey butter that was good, but again, overly salted. The word of the day for all of the food we had: SALTY.

And, since I know that you all appreciate a certain sense of decorum, you'll be pleased to know that the folks here ask gentlemen to remove their baseball caps in the dining room . . . unique for Portland. But alas, a true gentleman would already know to remove his hat indoors and would never have thought to wear a baseball cap to anything but a fast food joint in the first place! And I won't even begin to talk about raggedy jeans and tee shirts in a fine dining establishment. Its just too much.

This is a beautiful room with a retro feel that is comfortable and inviting and filled with promise. I will give it another try down the line, but not on a Sunday, and let you know what happens. For a place that is referred to as "El Gouge-O" for its stratospheric prices, there should never be an off night. Hopefully next time it will be back to its more respectable self.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Monday, January 21, 2008

Portland: 23Hoyt

I was looking forward to a visit to 23Hoyt as its a cool space and a part of a group of good restaurants here in Portland. The space is sleek and feels comfortable, interesting stag candle holders on the bar and nice people. Dinner was good, not spectacular, but generally good.

We started with the "naked ravioli" which were spinach dumplings with butter and cheese. It was a nice preparation and very tasty, everyone enjoyed them. Then a salad that wasn't particularly interesting, but was just OK. The star of the show was the entree, a wonderful chicken paprikash . . . perfectly cooked chicken in an amazing paprika sauce. It was earthy and spicy and a great dish for a cold evening. Dessert was a strudel with a cherry ice cream . . . really boring and a disappointment. The strudel was no better than something from the freezer section at the local grocery store and the ice cream was more "interesting" than good. The chicken was worth a return trip, otherwise the dinner was non remarkable.

Two other comments about the experience. First, the music . . . a guy playing the piano and singing . . . he was awful; loud and off key in a way that set your teeth on edge. The staff was even looking askance at him, so I'm not sure what was up but he shouldn't be invited back. Second was the service . . . it started out somewhat leisurely and degenerated into downright slow and disorganized. There were long waits between courses, the server seemed less than engaged, and dishes weren't cleared in a timely manner. When it was time for dessert and coffee the dessert was delivered but the coffee didn't arrive until after everyone had finished eating. I don't know if this was a problem with the server or bar or kitchen, but it was not well coordinated and the lapse not even acknowledged. I expected a much better overall service experience here and was disappointed, really lackadaisical. I'll give 23Hoyt another try, but I'm not in a hurry to do so.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Portland: Jake's Famous Crawfish

OK, I know I wrote about Jake's as my first blog entry, but I don't think I did them justice and want to tell you about this place again. This is Portland's oldest restaurant, a classic seafood house and the mothership for all of the McCormick and Schmick's places around the country. While the clones are not that successful, real Jake's is a winner every time. This is the place for a real Portland experience with fresh seafood, wait staff in white jackets and always a hub of activity in the bar. If you live here you know, if you're visiting go and if you are in town for business, take clients. Successful and not pretentious, straight forward food and good service.

So, about that bar . . . fresh squeezed juices for the drinks, a large selection of liquors, good beer on tap and in the bottle. The bartenders are great, efficient and friendly, and always make you feel welcome. The best of the best are Bobby and Bert who will remember you and your drink after a visit and make you feel like a regular even if you're only in the bar twice a year. They will make your drink and give you advice about the menu while dealing with a bizillion other things and you'll still feel like the only one in the bar. Excellent service and great people.

While you can get the entire menu in the bar, go to the dining room for the full experience. The menu is printed twice daily depending on what seafood is fresh and available . . . all of that is listed at the top and can be prepared any way you like . . . with wonderful classic preparations of your favorites. There are usually at least six different kinds of oysters to choose from to start things off and many other appetizers for those not inclined to slurp down raw bivalves. Try the crab claws [ask for drawn butter {what exactly is drawn butter, anyway . . . is it a picture of butter? an imitation? is lead involved?} for dipping] or one of the chowders. Entrees can be grilled fish with interesting sauces [swordfish with dill beurre blanc], wonderful salmon [horseradish crusted or stuffed with crab and shrimp and brie] or a steak for our non-seafood friends. The etouffe is wonderful, filled with crayfish tails and chicken [I once took a friend from NoLa there and he ordered the etouffe . . . took one bite and said "there must be on old black woman back there in the kitchen, this is better than home" . . . an excellent testimony].

And then there's always dessert. Purists will opt for the three-berry cobbler, served warm and tasting like a summer day in the Pacific northwest. I am drawn to the banana cream pie drizzled with caramel sauce or the key lime pie, personally. Their chocolate truffle cake used to be wonderful, but a couple of years ago they tinkered with the recipe and its not as good . . . not as moist or dense, less intense chocolate flavor. So its not on my list of favorites, there are better choices.

The staff at Jake's is great, professional and personable with good knowledge of the food and wine that serve you well for dinner. Most of the servers have been here a long time, many for more than twenty years, so they know what they're doing and take pride in a job well done. Ask for Carla or Tony and you're all set for a real Jake's evening.

Be sure to make reservations, it fills up quickly and can have a very long wait. Especially on weekends, or during the summer when there are conventions in town. The bar has a late night menu that offers a number of choices on the cheap, but its usually packed so get there early if you want a table. This is a casual option for upscale dining, but almost everything in Portland is casual [that's not necessarily a good thing . . . jeans at the opera and all]. You'll see prom kids in formal wear, dressed up folks out for a celebration, business people in after work and then the family more at home at an "all you can eat" buffet in for a big night out. Its an interesting mix that adds to the authenticity of the place, so enjoy.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Saturday, January 12, 2008

California: In-N-Out Burger

This is the quintessential California burger drive through and its always great. And, you are welcome to wear your baseball cap and shorts here, there is definitely no dress code. And, usually, no dining room either. Just drive through and enjoy. Order a "double double animal style" . . . 2 burger patties, 2 slices of cheese . . . I'm not sure what the "animal style" means, but I like saying it and it tastes good. The fries are hot out of the oil, freshly made and great. When I fly back home to SoCal I often drive through In-N-Out on my way from the airport to my family's house. They can always tell, there's usu sally sauce on my shirt. This is the best fast food burger in the southwest, go check it out.

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Honolulu: Halekulani Hotel: Le Mer

This is it, the best restaurant on the islands and one of my favorites anywhere. A sleek and elegant setting, beautiful presentation and excellent service all rolled into one perfect dining experience. Le Mer pleases every time, with consistently high standards and gracious hospitality. This is what Bali by the Sea [see previous post] thinks it is, but doesn't come anywhere close in any category . . . right down to the badly outfitted wait staff with Denny's like skills.

An evening at Le Mer always starts off with a glass of champagne and a treat from the kitchen, this time tiny popovers . . . one with lobster and the other salmon. After ordering, an amuse arrived, a seafood aspic with lobster that was the only bobble by the kitchen . . . the texture was a rubber/jello cross that was not pleasing . . . but the flavor was nice. Then on to the amazing dinner:

Seared foie gras with fresh asparagus that was perfectly prepared and had an amazing combination of flavors and textures. Beautiful on the plate and even better to taste.

Fresh truffle on a potato galette with an amazing sauce that had some bacon going on. And with it? Truffle Madeleines! Can you believe it? These were the best and I wanted more . . . the whole dish was absolutely perfect.

Veal medallions on a confit of beans with a Roquefort sauce that was dazzling. Just when I thought I couldn't like anything better than the truffle-surprise, along comes this veal dish with its perfectly balanced flavors and satiny beans and I am again inspired to lick my plate [even though the dining room is dark, I refrained for fear of being asked not to return].

An assortment of sweets followed, with just a touch more champagne, and the evening's indulgence was finished. Not too full. Not too buzzed. Not anything but very happy.

Each course was paired with a wonderful wine thanks to the wine steward and the pace of the meal leisurely but not slow. The service was attentive and well done with one exception . . . my waiter. He may have been new or just not "on" that night, but he was the weak link in the service chain . . . but the slack was evenly picked up by everyone else so it was not a problem and barely evident.

And one more great thing about Le Mer . . . they have a dress code! Yes, a dress code! Meaning that they understand that baseball caps are appropriate only if one is attending a sporting event and that tee shirts and shorts are for the beach. How fortunate that there is still someplace in a resort area that will stand up and say no to the ever encroaching lack of decorum that is justified in the name of casual. Manners shouldn't be left at home when one is on vacation, and neither should appropriate clothing. I guess my assumption there may be incorrect, some of these vacationers probably don't have manners at home, so why would them have them on vacation . . . but that's a commentary for another time. Where is Miss Manners when you need her?

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE

Monday, January 7, 2008

Honolulu: Rainbows

This is it . . . the best Hawaiian fast food on the island. What looks like an old hamburger stand is actually the home to the best plate lunch in Honolulu [I know, everyone has their favorites]. The place has walk up windows with a few outdoor tables, that's it. Its a local place that you'll have to ask directions to find, and is packed at the lunch hour with all sorts of people: from giant Samoan men working construction, to suit-types, to school teachers. It looks dirty, but the food is great. My best advice, go a little later and arrive hungry!

What is plate lunch? Its a ton of nasty-good food on a plate, covered with gravy, that makes you want to roll over and sleep on the beach when you're finished. Start with a take-out box . . . add 2 scoops of white rice, one scoop of macaroni salad [2 if you're lucky], some kind of meat [katsu chicken is my favorite, although spam is very popular] then cover the whole thing with brown gravy. Sprinkle on the chili sauce and you're ready to go. Add a cherry slushy float with chocolate ice cream and you can be in bad-food heaven. Give it a shot, really.

For the tourist looking for local color and flavor, a plate lunch joint is the place to visit. And for my money Rainbows is the best . . . just find it and see. Aloha!

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE

Honolulu: Royal Hawaiian: Mai Tai Bar

This is place where the drink was created, on a beautiful terrace overlooking the Pacific in the classic Royal Hawaiian Hotel. I went for lunch and have this to say: BAD SERVICE, BAD ATTITUDE, and BAD FOOD. It was a disaster on every front and I tried to give them some slack.



The bar wasn't crowded, there were open tables when I sat down for a late lunch. After waiting 10 minutes to be acknowledged by the waiter [snippy] I ordered a drink and their Lobster Cobb Salad. The food arrived 40 minutes later . . . with no contact from the waiter in the interim . . . and it was NASTY. The lobster was like rubber and tasteless. The entire salad and plate were tepid, no where close to chilled and dressing nonexistent. Oh, and there was no bacon [listed on the menu description] . . . what's a Cobb Salad without bacon I ask you??? The waiter returned after I was more than half way through the salad and when I asked about the bacon he said "So, do you want me to get some?". My, my. He eventually brought bacon, after I had completed the meal and was waiting for a check and said something like "you already ate your lettuce . . . ". And then said that they'd buy my lunch, basically admitting that it had been a bad experience.



I don't know if they were understaffed, if the kitchen was in chaos or if something was broken. All I know is that the experience was bad and, to compound things, the attitude of the staff was indifferent at best. Thank you, but I'll have my salad in the sun elsewhere next time. And you should too!



EatHereOrNot: NOT!

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Honolulu: Halekulani Hotel: Orchids

Orchids is the main restaurant in the Halekulani Hotel on the beach in Honolulu. The hotel is an oasis in the hustle and bustle of the area and Orchids is the perfect spot for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The restaurant is beautiful and opens to a lawn and views of the pacific. The food is wonderful, seafood with an island sensibility that is beautifully presented, and the service gracious and professional. Lunch is a great time to check this place out, take a break from the beach and relax for a fine meal. The lobster and crab salad is great, the soups always inventive and the coconut cake . . . reason enough to fly to Honolulu. Coconut cake at Orchids and all is right with the world, trust me.

This whole property has a sleek quiet elegance about it that is a welcome tonic to the cacophony that is Waikiki. And happily, all of the guest rooms seem to have full length mirrors installed as people are appropriately dressed and seem to know the difference between "resort casual" and "vacation slob", which is what one usually sees just outside the door. I'm all for casual, but please leave your tattered shorts, "I'm With Stupid" tee-shirts and clear plastic heels back home at the trailer park. Or, visit Las Vegas and stay at Circus Circus.

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE

Hawaiian Airlines

OK, so I had to escape Portland and jumped on a Hawaiian Airlines flight to Honolulu for some sun and a break. As usual, I was impressed by Hawaiian Airlines . . . they are the best domestic carrier in the sky as far as I'm concerned. The planes are pleasant and comfortable [for transpacific flights its all 767 with 2 classes of service], the staff is welcoming and efficient, and the food is actually very good. Now I will admit that i was flying first class, which does taint the experience, but the service in first is much better than I've had on Delta or United and the food is hands down the best. I think what really makes this operation shine is the staff . . . consistently gracious, helpful, and always ready with a smile. What a concept! If you are travelling to Hawaii, give them a try and see what I mean. Even in coach!

FlyHereOrNot? FLY HERE

Friday, January 4, 2008

Honolulu: Hilton Hawaiian Village: Bali by the Sea

Well, here I am in beautiful Hawaii for a few days relaxation and contemplation at the start of the new year. And eating, of course. Bali by the Sea is the upscale dining room at the Hilton Hawaiian Village resort and it is a complete disappointment. Service, atmosphere and food were all disappointments . . . and I had high expectations. The service was disinterested at best [and the servers looked sloppy in ill fitting uniforms, one guy had his tie unhooked like a soda jerk] and the whole experience sub par. Especially for the price.

Sugar cane crusted scallops as a starter were over cooked and rubbery, but the concept was good. Seared sea bass was also over cooked, but the presentation was nice and the risotto side dish was interesting. I passed on dessert, nothing looked interesting. The server was pleasant, but just not into it and it showed. I'd rather eat plate lunch than here again.

There is some good competition here in Honolulu for fine dining and Hilton should step up and do a better job. The resort has a lot of great features, but dining is not one of them.

EatHereOrNot? NOT

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Ashland, OR: Chateaulin Restaurant

This small French restaurant in Ashland, evocative of the best of neighborhood places in Paris or New York, always pleases. I have been eating here for almost 30 years and it is one of the most consistent and lovely places to dine on the west coast; small, elegant and charming without pretense. The limited menu is classic French with some Northwest touches, fresh and well prepared. Over the years the menu has evolved, but not left behind its classical core and technique, which is why this place has been a winner for all of these years.

There was a change of ownership several years ago with the front of house partner, Michael Donovan, leaving. Since then the level of service has declined somewhat and the dining room has never recovered its graceful and efficient hum. That's a shame, because everything else has remained consistently good and this is still a wonderful place to spend an evening.

If you are visiting during the theater season reservations are a must. If you're not attending a play, try to arrive just after the theater crowd leaves, when the restaurant sighs and assumes a more relaxed pace for dining. The after theater crowd can be lively with those just having seen one of the productions mingling with actors and others from the company. The bar is fully stocked, appetizers ready and a nice selection of desserts. Try the giant "Ho Ho" chocolate roll for a hit of chocolate with some champagne.

This is one of my favorites, enjoy!

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE