Chicago: Frontera Grill

I am always wary of restaurants helmed by big name TV celebrity chefs, so I approached dinner at this Rick Bayless establishment with some trepidation. I had heard it described as “uppity Mexican food” so went with more curiosity than anything else and was pleasantly surprised. I sat at the kitchen bar and ordered small plates and heady apricot infused margaritas with a spicy rim, and nothing disappointed. The ambiance is casual in a kitchy southwest kind of way, and the service efficient and smiling. The one thing to know is that they room is LOUD, so don’t plan on intimate conversation over dinner. The vibe is fun and exuberant, go have a good time and enjoy the experience.

The flavors here are robust and combined with different textures for maximum impact; everything I tasted was vibrant and delicious. The taquitos de pollo, stuffed with smoked chicken and salsa verde were crispy and flavorful and the accompanying guacamole velvety perfection. The sopes rancheros were little cornmeal boats filled with a hearty beef stew and roasted tomatoes that I could have eaten all night and the quesadillas were a revelation. Not tortillas filled with cheese and griddled, but croquette-like pockets of cornmeal dough filled with jack cheese that were absolutely amazing. Again, I was hooked.

The one thing that you just have to ignore are the pouty faced faux-models at the front desk, who seemed annoyed that they had to interact with clients. Ladies, neither you nor the restaurant are that big a deal, so get over yourselves and remember that without diners you’d be back under a streetlamp in the cold Chicago night. Check this place out and have a good time, you’ll come away with a happy stomach and a new appreciation for celebrity chefs [or at least Mr. Bayless].

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Chicago: BIN36

Wine bar? Restaurant? Movie theater? Cheese bar? Wine shop? All of the above? Yes, that’s it. BIN36 is a wide open, sleek space with light wood floors and high ceilings that perfectly set the stage for the dining experience that is offered. And, there are choices there as well. You can sit at the bar and enjoy a flight of wine or perhaps relax in the café area with a snack. Or head into the dining room, really all parts of the same large space, for a more formal meal. You can even head up to the loft area and catch a movie on certain nights. Then, just to the right of the front door, is my favorite spot, the CHEESE BAR. Yes fellow fromage-whores, there is a bar with a massive selection of cheeses all waiting to be discovered. For my cheesy friends, and you know who you are, this is nirvana. Flights of cheese in the same style or perhaps a selection of cheese from one country? It is all possible, and beautifully presented, at the Cheese Bar.

In the dining room the food is simply prepared and beautifully presented with some inventive combinations that are always interesting. On my last visit I had a beautiful asparagus salad [short lengths stacked Lincoln-log style] topped by a light and yet sumptuous crab salad. The combination was perfection, a culinary herald of spring. Also on offer is a wonderful beet salad with blood oranges and goat cheese that is rollicking in its flavor and color composition. Red and gold beets made the plate sparkle and the flavors were intense without being overpowering. A winner for sure. As an entrée I selected the roast chicken [always a good test for the kitchen, something so primal is often poorly executed] which arrived moist, crisp, and flavorful, really perfect. The only misstep were the accompanying “lemon and black pepper dumplings”, which seemed like a nice idea but were overly salted and remained on my plate when it went back to the kitchen [and, interestingly, were not commented on by the waiter . . . but we’ll get to that later]. Desserts can only be described as fun, a chocolate and peanut Nepoelian layered with a coffee caramel that was a small delight on the plate. Crunchy, salty, chocolaty and gooey all at once, what a dessert should be.

The only real drawback to a dinner date at BIN36 is the service, which I would characterize as casual at best: long waits to get the affable waiter’s attention followed by equally long pauses between the courses during which nothing was cleared. While this is not fine dining in the formal sense, its not Red Robin either, and with more attention to the mechanics of good service [and maybe more care by the staff] things would really be elevated. The kitchen obviously cares, as evidenced by the food, its time for the front of the house to either step up or step out of the way.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Chicago: Marshall Field [well, Macy's]: Walnut Room

OK, I know you’re going to think I’m crazy for talking about a restaurant in a department store, and an old one at that, but this place is a classic and I love it. This is what shopping downtown and having lunch during the excursion was all about in the heyday of American cities. I remember it from my smaller city experience with my mother at Buffum’s in Long Beach, and we are the poorer for its decline, both as a reprieve from the frenetic pace of shopping and the civilized stop for a fine lunch and conversation that it offered. Happily the Walnut Room remains a beacon in downtown Chicago, a reminder of a time gone by and yet still here. The room is elegant and formal; at my last visit the spring flower show was on and the room’s center was dominated by a huge fountain overflowing with flowers and flamingos . . . who could ask for more. Come for lunch or tea and don’t hurry. And, let the Macy’s goons know that this kind of place should be celebrated and cared for, rather than removed as has happened at Meier and Frank [Portland] and Wannamaker’s [Philadelphia] and I’m sure other of the old downtown landmarks no longer know by their “real” names.

The food at the Walnut Room is actually very good, updated luncheon fare from some of the chefs featured in the food hall of the store. The chicken pot pie arrives fragrant and steaming under its chapeau of puff pastry, just like it has for ages I’d imagine. Swedish meatballs with chive mashed potatoes, accompanied by the obligatory ligonberry sauce, updated by Marcus Samuelson, are heartier fare perfect for a chilly day [which was the case on my visit].

The wait staff seems to have been around for ages and is a perfect fit for the ambience of the room. Mostly women of a certain age and size, they graciously welcome guests into this sanctuary on the seventh floor and time slips away. Wonderful. When you’re in Chicago and on State Street, don’t miss the opportunity for a visit to the Walnut Room. My only complaint was the disappearance of the foil wrapped walnut candies that used to be presented with the check. They were a nice touch and I would celebrate their return.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Chicago: Cite

This restaurant reminded me of the hot guy you see across the room . . . great looking, well dressed, sparkling eyes . . . you say hello and he responds and he's, well, vapid. Nothing to say, not exciting, banal and disappointing. From service to food to presentation, Cite was vapid and banal. The only thing is has going for it is the view . . . so go up and enjoy the view for a cocktail and then find a good restaurant for dinner. Otherwise you're going to be disappointed.

The menu on line looked promising, and the reviews were good, so I figured I'd give it a chance [against my better judgement]. For the entire evening it felt like somebody wasn't paying attention, neither the dining room nor the kitchen were anywhere close to adequate for a restaurant of this price range and calling itself fine dining. First the service: I don't need the waiter to tell me what's on the menu by reciting the names of the dishes and their preparations just as they are printed . . . I can read. I shouldn't have to ask for a napkin or water or bread . . . that's supposed to happen automatically. When the food arrives the waiter should check back quickly to see if everything is alright [it was not]. When presenting the cheese course, the waiter should know what kind of cheese is on the plate, duh! And, there shouldn't be a squirt bottle of cleaning solution left on the adjacent table through the meal . . . this is, after all, supposed to be fine dining. And lastly, the waiter shouldn't be glib about everything that went wrong during the evening, that doesn't make it better and only cements the impression of amateurism on every front.

Now for the food. The best thing we ate was the amuse, a tiny cup of a chilled mango and pepper soup that was divine. And, unfortunately, set our expectations for wonderful things to follow when we were actually at the top of the peak and it was all down hill from there. The jumbo lump crab souffle was OK, really just a couple of crab cakes, and why it was "jumbo" I'll never know. Was it from a large crab? Then came the entree, a New York strip served with "chef's wild mushrooms" and Pomme Puree . . . the steak was over cooked to leather [well done rather than the medium rare that was ordered] and the Pomme Puree was a blob of mashed potatoes placed on the plate as if by a cafeteria worker at a grammar school. The cognac sauce on the plate was cloyingly sweet and more appropriate for dessert. Also on the plate was a blue cheese ravioli which was undercooked [tough pasta] and obviously from the freezer section at Costco. My companion had the rack of lamb, which she said was good but not remarkable. Finally, a cheese plate with four cheeses . . . only three of which the waiter could identify and he didn't know what the other things on the plate were either. What??

The overall dinning experience was disappointing to say the least . . . for a restaurant this expensive at least the service should be competent. I have always been wary of restaurants with views [this place is 70 stories up] and should have trusted my gut on this one [rather then filling it with mediocre food in this town full of good restaurant options]. With a view like this the place is compensating for something, and like a guy with a big truck, something is going to come up short. And in this case the short was service, food, experience. Don't bother with this place, its a disappointment from start to finish.

EatHereOrNot: NOT

Charleston, SC: Charleston Place: Charleston Grill

The Charleston Place hotel is one of the Orient-Express properties and that are justly known for their elegance and luxury and the Charleston Grill is the fine dining room on the property. While it is a beautiful and finely appointed room, it is not stuffy and the atmosphere is almost jovial [perhaps its just the southern way]. The room was comfortable and the staff friendly, but the food was a disappointment. The menu is divided into categories: "cosmopolitan", "southern", "pure", "lush". WTF? It made no sense to me and the dishes in each category were neither consistent nor related. I found it all kind of weird.

From the "lush" category I choose Truffled Mushroom Soup . . . you already know how I feel about truffles, so this was a no brainer. It was, sadly, a waste of truffles . . . inedible. It was so heavily salted that it was like drinking sea water. I sent it back after two bites and hoped for better things. Next from the "pure" section was Sauteed Pheasant Breast with winter root vegetables and lemon roesmary jus. The pheasant was a little overcooked but flavorful, and the vegetables tasty. The overall effect was of an "almost but not quite". I skipped dessert.

Highly recommended, beautiful and ultimately unsatisfying . . . have you had dates like that?

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Columbia, SC: Mr. Friendly's

This place is GREAT! Its a fairly small, casual restaurant with food that belies its simple surroundings. The space is an old bakery: brick walls, high ceiling, wood floors and filled with light. The food is 'new southern', which for me translated to delicious. I had lunch here and would have returned for dinner had I still been in town.

So, on to the food: buttermilk fried cube steak . . . the best 'chicken fried steak' I've ever had. Couple that with garlic mashed potatoes with black pepper cream gravy that was perfect and I'm in heaven. The plate also had a wonderful roasted corn salsa [this must be the new part of new southern] and a beautiful succotash. I was stuffed and still could have eaten the whole thing over again. For desert we ordered the key lime pie, and it was the only disappointment. The texture was rubbery and was more like something from a jello mix. I should have just had more mashed potatoes and gravy!

This was a wonderful discovery [thanks Bob!] and I will happily return. My only reservation is the name . . . does anyone else think that Mr. Friendly is a euphemism for a certain part of the male anatomy?

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Sarasota [Siesta Key]: The Lobster Pot

This place was fun, a beachy restaurant full of "lobster stuff" that is family owned and run and had a cool, laid back vibe. Its a world away from downtown Sarasota out on Siesta Key, which is really just a short drive. There is a kitchy dining room and patio for dining, and a small bar where you can eat as well. So take your pick and enjoy.

The menu is just what you would expect from a New England seafood shack: clams, lobster [of course], fish of all sorts and great sides [the cole slaw was exceptional]. I had the lobster newburg, becuase I'm lazy and didn't want to work at getting my lobster out of the shell. The sauce was flavorful and filled with lobster, all filling a crips puff pastry shell. Good stuff. And as I said, the cole slaw was great, as were the baked beans.

If you're looking for a fine dining experience, don't go here. If you are looking for good seafood in a casual, fun environment this is your spot. Check it out. And note that there is a city parking lot behind the restaurant, its hard to see at night, but with street parking tight you'll celebrate when you find it.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.sarasota-lobsterpot.com/

Miami Beach: Joe's Stone Crab

OK OK OK . . . I know its been a long time since my last posting; I'm not sure where the time went or what happened, but now I'm back. And in Florida enjoying the sun, one of my favorite things to do in the early part of a new year. So last night on South Beach we ate at Joe's Stone Crab, and institution that has grown to massive size over its long life and still delivers what its famous for: STONE CRAB. You order the crab by the size of the claws and it arrives on a bed of ice with a great mustard sauce . . . everyone's crab on one giant plate. For those of you not familiar with stone crab its a local delicacy and only the claws are served [they are ripped [removed sounds nicer] from the crab one at a time, then the crab is thrown back and happily regrows a new claw for later consumption . . . its an ongoing cycle apparently], and always chilled. The sides here are great, including a creamed spinach with garlic and sweet potato crisps.

This is a tourist and locals spot, large and loud filled with familes and couples and business diners. There is a sign at the door that "appropriate" attire is required . . . what that means I don't know since there were people dressed in shorts and bad shirts as one would find in any beach destination. I also saw a guy with a shirt that I'm sure had been embelished with a bedazzler . . . and it was not a pretty sight. So, try this place out, eat the crab claws and smie and the dress code. And, even though its on SoBe the vibe is anything but what has come to be the norm here, so enjoy and don't feel like you need lipo or implants or a fake tan to go.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

http://www.joesstonecrab.com/index.html

Reno: Harrah's: The Steakhouse

This is one of those old classics, in the best sense of that word, that’s been around forever and continues to impress with each visit. When I’m in Reno and go here for dinner I always feel like I might run into Darren, Samantha, Larry and Louise out for a big night on the town. The ambiance is subdued, quiet and sleek; happily a long way from the noise and bright lights of the casino upstairs, and the staff is the epitome of gracious professional service. Michael, the Maitre 'd, has been at the helm forever [well, as long as I’ve been dining there, which is more than 25 years]. And even though my visits are not frequent, he remembers me and is always welcoming.

The food here is as classy as the surroundings, everything one would expect from the best restaurant in Reno. The Steakhouse is justly famous for its creamy five onion soup, served in a giant onion with a crust of bubbling cheese, it’s the perfect way to begin the meal. I could actually eat more than one serving, but have resisted because the steaks are so good here that I don’t want to miss out. I’ve never had anything but a perfect steak here, and I’ve had many over the years. New York, fillet, prime rib . . . it’s all good. And, if you ask nicely they’ll prepare any of the steaks Oscar style . . . crab and Bearnaise, what could be better. The cool thing about the food here is that the presentation is a step that of most other steakhouses, beautifully prepared vegetables and starch, not just a slab of meat and a baked potato. Its fine dining that happens to be steak, and they know exactly what they’re doing. I have usually eaten too much to even think about ordering dessert, but at the end of the meal a very cool dish, steaming with dry ice, arrives at the table with house made truffles and chocolates and I cannot resist. It’s a perfect ending.

As an aside, this place is also for lunch on weekdays where that onion soup is available and there is a nice selection of salads and smaller entrees. Not listed on the menu is the Snoopy Salad . . . I don’t know where that name came from . . . but it’s a great combination of what seems like random things from the kitchen, and it along with the onion soup is a perfect lunch. So by having both lunch and dinner here I get to have the onion soup twice and that makes everything OK, even if my luck at the tables hasn’t been that good.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.harrahsreno.com/casinos/harrahs-reno/restaurants-dining/harrahs-steak-house-detail.html

New Orleans: Camellia Grill

A lovely streetcar ride uptown [or a cab if you’re in a hurry] takes you to this local favorite, and nationally known, diner. Camellia Grill reopened after a too-long closure due to Katrina, its back in full swing offering the best of real diner food with all of the trimmings. There are no tables here, just a serpentine counter that is usually full of folks happily munching omelets, burgers, chili and fountain concoctions prepared right behind the counter. The staff is friendly and calls the regulars by name, but everyone is made to feel welcome when they get a stool. When the stools are full, those waiting for a spot sit on a long bench along the wall [in strict order of arrival] and sometimes that bench is full up too, so a line forms out the door. All of that means that everyone knows this is the place to be, and it is worth the wait.

This is authentic diner food, the kind that you crave after too much fancy stuff, and nothing like the food at those upscale faux diners like Buckhead Diner in Atlanta or its twin Fog City Diner in San Francisco. The burgers are great, and I love the buns . . . which are soft and squishy in just the right way and absorb the juices and condiments. The fries too, hot out of the grease, are just what the doctor ordered. But to take them to a higher level, have them doused with chili and cheese and you’ll be in diner heaven. Get a chocolate shake to wash things down and you’re all set. Until its time for dessert, where the apple pie shines, warmed up on the grill and paired with vanilla ice cream. Who could ask for anything more? Breakfast is available all the time, so if you’re in the mood for an omelet at after a night of partying in the Quarter this is the place to be.

So when in the Big Easy, head uptown to the Camellia and support this local institution, and have some fun as well. If you take a cab, be sure to have the address with you . . . and make sure that the cabbie knows to turn left off of Canal . . . I have discovered that there is a whole new cadre of cabbies that arrived after Katrina and they are not from New Orleans and don’t really know where things are outside of the major hotels and the French Quarter. It’s another shame that the post-Katrina migration took with it the collective knowledge of the city and its colorful history that was a topic of conversation and point of pride for cabbies as they drove you to your destination. I took several cab rides while I was in town and none of the drivers had been in town very long, had any real feel for the city or its history and for the most part did not speak English well enough to carry on a conversation. It was sad.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.camelliagrill.net/

Portland: 1001

Well, I had dinner the other night at 1001 and all I can say is FAAAABULOUS. Wait . . . that was too gay . . . dinner was wonderful? Fantastic? Excellent? No, it really was fabulous! The best meal I’ve had in Portland, or anywhere, for some time. From the amuse all the way through to the dessert the food and service were perfect and I was ready to go back as soon as we left the restaurant. More than anything, I was surprised. I had eaten a couple of times at 1001 last year and found the room beautiful and the staff pleasant, but the food was fussy and trying way too hard to be “cutting edge” [maybe?]. So I was interested to see how things had evolved since the arrival of a new chef and an overhaul of the menu . . . to say that Chef Jack has hit a homerun is an understatement . . . now, everything works and this is suddenly in the top tier of my Portland restaurants. And now, on to the food.

After ordering, which took some time because everything on the menu was tempting, an amuse arrived and it was the perfect foreshadow of things to come in one small dish: savory, balanced and surprising with just a touch of whimsy for good measure. Horseradish panna cota, with a topping of steak tartare, served in a shot glass started the meal on a high note and things only got better. Who would have thought of that combination?

Next came a salad with duck prosciutto, dark and rich and an effective foil to the greens on the plate. The star of this course, however, was a foie gras torchon. Its unctuous texture set off perfectly by a blood orange moutard and pistachio puree. This is another one of those dishes that made me want to lick the plate and then ask for more, but as always I resisted for fear of not being invited back. We then had a potion of seared ahi served with a piquant celery and apple relish that was excellent. All of these dishes proved what we had suspected after the amuse, that the chef is adept at putting surprising combinations on the plate that set each other off in texture, flavor and color, taking full advantage of each.

For my entrée I selected the bacon wrapped quail [well, I would select bacon wrapped anything, no surprise here] served with a mushroom stuffing and a ragout of small beans. I know I am repeating myself, but this too was amazing. The usual problem with the quail that I have encountered is that they tend to get overcooked; not the case here where these little flyers were moist and tender with crisp skin. I had to protect my plate from the marauding forks of my dining companions it was so good.

And just when I thought I could eat no more the dessert menu arrived and we agreed to take a look. Well its hard to resist when the choices were so enticing and so we waded in for more. The star of the table at dessert was a wonderful peanut butter crème brulee . . . . I know, hold on . . . which revealed a layer of berry jam underneath. And, to make things even better, a small glass of chocolate milk came along on the plate. PBJ with chocolate milk, a kid’s delight all dressed up for adults and just as appealing. With some bubbles it was the perfect ending to a really FABAAAABULOUS meal.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE!!!

http://www.ten-01.com/

Portland: The Rhinelander

The Rhinelander is one of those kitchy places that fascinates and repels at the same time . . . like a train wreck or a public fight between spouses, the question is to look or not and if you choose to look should you enjoy it. It’s the only place in Portland that I know of with a strolling accordionist and a band of singing waiters belting out German drinking songs in between serving pots of fondue and steins of beer. I have wondered what a German tourist would think if some well meaning Portlander brought him to the Rhinelander for a “taste of home”. Probably a combination of amusement, at the realization that much of Oregon [and the US] thinks that this cartoonish piece of Bavaria is what Germany is really like, and horror for the same reason. My reaction would be similar if I thought that the world viewed Hee Haw as an accurate depiction of the “real” America.

But, we’re here to talk about the food and there is plenty of it, starting with the fondue that arrives on the table to kick off the meal. Bluehour does not need to worry here, the fondue is overly salty and tastes of processed cheese, but it is the perfect way to start things off here with chunks of bread and a beer. I wonder if the salty fondue is a way to stimulate the thirst and thus the beer sales, like the peanuts and popcorn that are paraded through the stands at the circus before the soft drinks vendor makes an appearance. After the fondue comes soup or salad and I recommend the lentil soup, a simple and hearty bowl that’s perfect on a winter night. It is savory and tastes of the earth in a peasant kind of way. The plentiful selection of “classic” German entrees is pleasant in a kind of stereotypical way and includes sauerbraten, schnitzel, a variety of sausages and other treats. The portions are large and many include my favorites spatzle [remember, I like the carbohydrates] and sauerkraut. The desserts were for me a disappointment, nothing looked worth the calories and the chocolate mousse that I sampled could have come from a boxed mix . . . the best part about it was its serving dish, a cookie shaped like a cup.

Don’t go head to the Rhinelander for fine dining or a quiet evening, but do go and enjoy this Portland institution for a casual evening with a group of friends who would get the joke and enjoy the experience. The Rhinelander is a guilty pleasure, one of those things that more people really enjoy than actually admit to, and that’s just fine. So go, order a beer and a sausage, and polka if you get the chance, its all in good fun and you’ll smile at the memory.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Portland: Carafe

Carafe's setting, across from the downtown Keller Auditorium, is strip mall nondescript; but blink your eyes as you cross the threshold and you are transported to Paris. This wonderful Parisian bistro in the heart of Portland is the closest thing to the French capital on the west coast, and from my experience, some of the bistros in Paris should take note [and a lesson] from the well prepared and thoughtful food and service here. Although a little out of the way, Carafe is well worth the effort and always pleases with its food and atmosphere. Its the perfect place on a cold rainy evening for a fortifying onion soup and red wine or in the summer for a long evening on the patio watching the world go by sipping something cold and nibbling on cheese fries [I know, but they're really good and not like the diner things you're thinking of . . .pommes frites with melted gouda are a whole different plate of deep fried goodness].

In typical bistro fashion there is a wonderful salad frisse aux lardons topped with a poached egg and the perfect vinaigrette. The assiette de cochon is a collection of housemade pork "goodies" that is a great plate for the table to share. Moving on to the main events, the cassoulet is exactly as it should be and an antidote to that winter chill . . . don't have this at lunch or you'll be asleep at your desk in the early afternoon. The bifsteak frites is another dish that is so evocative of a Paris bistro that it can become trite, but here its perfectly prepared and lends credence to what you already know is a well versed kitchen. My favorite thing on the menu, if I had to choose, is the gnocchi gratineed with ham and Gruyere . . . one of those things that I want to roll in but control myself as I want to be invited back.

The pastry chef does equally good work here with an excellent bittersweet chocolate cake, crisp profiteroles with chocolate sauce and a very nice apple napoleon. All well prepared and presented in an unfussy style that is refreshing considering the excesses of spun sugar, sauce designs and other affectations that sometimes overpower the actual dessert on the plate.

I like this place, recommend it and want to eat here often. The staff is great, the food wonderful and the service good, if occasionally slower than I would expect . . . ah, Paris. One other note, if you are attending an event at the Keller make a reservation for dinner and use Carafe's valet service for parking . . . your vehicle will be waiting for you after the performance and a nite cap. And if you're not attending a performance, have dinner at 8:00 just after the theater crowd has departed, the restaurant has sighed a bit in relief, and is ready for more relaxed entertaining. Its worth it on all counts.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Orlando: Disneyworld: Grand Floridian: Victoria and Albert's

OK, all I can say is amazing. This is the jewel of dining at Disney for many reasons, not the least of which is the serene setting and the dress code. An adult oasis of calm and charm, in the spectacular Grand Floridian Hotel, which is a Disney knock-off of the Hotel Del Mar in the San Diego area. The hotel is typical Disney over-the-top, but tucked away on the second floor is this reservations only, jacket required treat. Come prepared to spend the evening, the seven course meal is extravagant in all the right ways and just what the surroundings demand. Sit back and let it wash over you as a tonic from the frenetic activity just outside the doors, and be sure to indulge in the wine pairing, which makes a good thing that much better. So, here's a look at some of the choices you may have during the evening:

After contemplating the beautiful menu an amuse arrived with some sparkling wine and the festivities began. Seared tuna and tartar . . . beautiful and tasting of the sea, with pickled papaya and jicama. Braised Kobe short ribs with roasted mushrooms. Seared Foie Gras on brioche toast with a sauce of cherries that was absolutely perfect. A gamebird consomme as an interlude and on to guinea fowl with asparagus, morels and porcinis that was perfect . . . but what is a guinea fowl anyway . . . are they those cute grey birds one sees at the zoo sometimes? Best not to think about it I suppose. Herb crusted lamb with gnocchi [I love gnocchi] and roasted garlic. And then a cheese course! A dress code and a cheese course, its almost too much to bear, but I held up to the challenge. Dessert offered a kona chocolate souffle, tropical fruit mousse [guests from hawaii, perhaps?], tanzani chocolate mousse. As with the entire menu, so many choices and all wonderful. My favorites were the foie gras and the guinea fowl, but everything at our table was beautifully presented and well prepared.

For a celebratory dinner while visiting the Mouse [happily there are no character appearances here . . . although for special occasions those Disney folks can do anything], a quiet time away from the children [I understand Disney has a sitter service] or just some good old fashioned indulgence this is the place. Make a reservation, leave the flip flops behind and enjoy an evening that you'll not soon forget. Oh, and remember, no matter how well your team is doing a baseball cap is not a sign of anything but bad taste in a fine dining establishment. And the folks here will tell you so!

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Orlando: Disneyworld: Animal Kingdom Lodge: Jiko

OK, so I know that now you’re all rolling your eyes because I’m going to talk about a restaurant in a “real” Disney property in a Disney hotel. One of the things that people don’t sometimes know is that the higher end Disney hotels each have a fine dining room, and they are usually quite good. Most of the restaurants are themed to the hotel, and the hotels themselves are the usual Disney over the top everything. And amazingly, the food in most instances holds up to the theme and everything else that is going on in the place. The dividend is that if you dine later in the evening at these fine dining spots there are usually fewer children around . . . they’ve been at the parks all day and are already in bed. The stereotype of Disney being all fast food burgers and cotton candy no longer holds true at both the hotels and in the theme parks. What a great idea. Now, on to the first of these restaurants that we’ll be talking about, Jiko.

Jiko is located in Disney’s Animal Kingdom Hotel, a huge fantasy safari lodge with some really beautiful decorative touches [check out the chandeliers made from Zulu shields in the grand hall] and a rear terrace that overlooks the animal park where giraffes and other animals are visible at close range. Jiko is on the lower level of the hotel and features African fusion cuisine and a wine list from South Africa. The food is flavorful, inventive, and beautifully presented and the staff, many from Africa, are a lovely accompaniment to the experience.

So now, on to the food. My favorite entrée is the short rib, which is prepared in a coffee based sauce and is slow cooked so that it falls off the bone. The short rib is accompanied by a potato dish that is a mixture of white potatoes and sweet potatoes. I actually prefer as a side dish the macaroni and cheese . . . I am convinced that the mettle of a restaurant can be judged by its macaroni and cheese and this stuff is flying high . . . its baked and cheesy and creamy and I want to roll in it. The starters here are equally fine including an asparagus soup with a curry crème and pistachios and a salad with a very cool watermelon vinegarette. Desserts are equally successful, tasty and beautifully plated. I like the chocolate cake especially. But the stars here are the ice creams, prepared in house and excellent. Ask for a sampler of the ice creams including the sour cream [rich and voluptuous] and lavender [light and floral]. Its all good here, go an enjoy a rich and unique experience. And oh, the wines . . . the list is all South African and is deep in all categories. The staff is knowledgeable and will happily explain and recommend some of these unique labels.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Orlando: Downtown Disney: Wolfgang Puck Cafe

Well, I know that some of you out there may not be Orlando or Disney fans when it comes to dining [or anything, for that matter], but I have to tell you that I travel there frequently on business and always have a good time and eat very well. And, one of my favorites is the Wolfgang Puck place at Downtown Disney [I know, amazing place to find fine dining]. But, don't be fooled into thinking that the large and loud downstairs space is the place to be, make a reservation for the beautiful and much sleeker Dining Room upstairs. Its only open for dinner and you'll have less of a chance of being surrounded by a clump of ill mannered children and their badly dressed parents. And there's something to be said for that at the "Happiest Place On Earth" [wouldn't you pay triple the admission price for the Magic Kingdom if it was a special day for those over 25 only?]. But we're here to talk about the food . . .

I am addicted to the Gnocchi with Braised Boar Bolognese. Its actually listed as an appetizer, but I am proud to report that I have on more than one occasion eaten two portions. Happily. Rumor has it that it will soon be removed from the menu because its not something that our little Austrian friend came up with; a really bad idea Mr. Puck. The Caesar salad is always well spiced and fresh, exactly the right combination. If I can move away from the gnocchi and get an entree, I like the shrimp with lemon risotto. Or the roast chicken, which is crisp and juicy and perfectly cooked. I'm less enamored with the "Original Veal 'Wienerschnitzel'", which has arrived overcooked and kind of tough. And, I'd rather have it with spatzle. But that's just me.

The dessert menu is nonremarkable, which is surprising considering how 'serious' this restaurant and its namesake take themselves. Carrot cake? The Baked Alaska is OK, but nothing to write home about. Last time I just had some of the ice cream with caramel sauce and it was perfect. Perhaps just a glass of bubbles and a piece or four of chocolate will do the trick.

As always there are things that take a place to a higher level and in the case of The Dining Room those 'things’ come in the form of Ani and Larry, the two wonderful bartenders. Even though I get to dine there infrequently, they always remember me and make me feel welcome. Good conversation between making drinks, tasteful evaluation of the clientele [Ani] and laughs all around make for an excellent evening. They are the icing on the cake of this restaurant.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Detroit: Coach Insignia

Well, the only time I've ever eaten at a higher altitude was in a airplane . . . this steakhouse soars 70+ floors above Detroit with stunning views of the city [which I think looks better after dark] and across the river to Canada. Prices for restaurants of this type usually mirror the height of the building or the expanse of the view, and Coach Insignia is no exception . . . stratospheric. As with all restaurants with spectacular views there is usually a conundrum regarding which is better . . . the food or the view. The food shouldn't distract from the view, but neither should the view be an excuse for mediocre food and service. The view won out here, with poorly prepared food and sporadic service marking our dining experience.

After a vertigo-inducing rocket of an elevator ride, we began the evening at the bar for drinks and a first look at the amazing view. We settled in for a cocktail and decided to have their signature appetizer as well, "lobster corn dogs". Yes, deep fried lobster on a stick! It arrived hot and crisp and very tasty, proving again that you can [and maybe should] try frying anything at least once. It was also at the bar that we encountered the first service misstep of the evening in the form of a very pleasant, but overly chatty, bartender who kept inserting herself into our conversation. Some chat is good, but we had had a long day and needed to do some reflection and were regularly interrupted by our friendly bearer of libations.

Then it was on to the dining room for the main event, at a beautiful table with that perfect view across the river. We started with salads, the Chop-Chop [pretty boring, mostly lettuce with sparse dressing] and the Autumn Salad [poached pear, bleu cheese, baby spinach and caramelized shallot] which was beautifully presented and offered a sophisticated blend of flavors that turned out to be the star of the evening. Then there were the steaks . . . which I'm sorry to report reminded me of a Sizzler. These were not the steaks that one would expect from a restaurant of this pretense, and to compound things there were not cooked as ordered. The worst example was a steak that was ordered medium-well that arrived from the kitchen barely warm inside and much less cooked than the other steaks at the table which were ordered medium-rare. When the undercooked steak was sent back for more fire it returned barely changed, as if the kitchen wasn't paying attention or was trying to make a statement about how they thought steak should be ordered. Bad form for sure. The side dishes of sautéed mushrooms and scalloped potatoes were serviceable, but not memorable. This is basic food folks, nothing fancy or difficult to prepare, and with attention to detail should be wonderful in the best sense of comfort food. Somewhere along the way that lesson was missed by the Coach Insigna.

The service, unfortunately, matched the food. Our waiter was pleasant but not always around when needed. Water glasses weren't filled or plates cleared with any care. Then an overly solicitous wine steward made the proceedings almost like a SNL skit. Maybe it’s me, but I have not had much luck eating at steakhouses recently and my karma continued here. The view is wonderful, the restaurant beautiful [but why doesn't it rotate?] but nothing else about the place comes up to that level. If I am in Detroit again I'll go up for a drink, sitting at a table and not the bar, have an appetizer and enjoy the sunset view. Then I'll take the elevator back to earth and find a good restaurant for dinner.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Detroit: Mosaic

This place, interestingly enough, was recommended by another restaurant that was booked for a private party on the night we wanted to go. The competition said Mosaic was great . . . maybe they were trying to look good in comparison, but this was disappointing to the point of yuck. The esthetic of the place was reminiscent of a disco, lots of bright metal and colored glass, with just a touch of sleaze . . . this is upscale dining?



Now on to the food, which turned out to be similar to the decor. How convenient. We started with the salmon carpaccio which was tasty but did not match the menu description. I hate that! When did "traditional accompaniments" become chunky avocado semi-salsa? I liked the dish, but like to have what shows up on my plate to be what I ordered from the menu . . . unless the dish is called "Smoked Salmon Surprise" or something. Then came lamb chops served on a potato gallette with an artichoke ragu-something. The lamb was OK, just lamb chops, no real detectable seasonings, but OK. The potato thing that was served under the lamb was tepid at best, and kind of pastey. The best part of the preparation was the artichoke ragu, well seasoned and HOT. For dessert we ordered the chocolate fondue . . . what can be better than your own personal bucket of chocolate? The fondue was good, and hot, served with fruit, cake and brownies for dippinng. The fruit was fine, the pound cake dry and sandy and the brownies stale. But there's nothing wrong with eating chocolate fondue with a spoon . . . a nice dessert all by itself.



This is one of those dining experiences that when we talked about it after leaving the restaurant said "was that weird or what?" and "did you like the food?". And the answers would be "yes" and "not really". So, I'm sure there must be better places to eat in Detroit and I look forward to checking them out on my next trip. I guess the take home lesson here is . . . don't eat in a disco.



EatHereOrNot: NOT

Portland: 23Hoyt

I was looking forward to a visit to 23Hoyt as its a cool space and a part of a group of good restaurants here in Portland. The space is sleek and feels comfortable, interesting stag candle holders on the bar and nice people. Dinner was good, not spectacular, but generally good.

We started with the "naked ravioli" which were spinach dumplings with butter and cheese. It was a nice preparation and very tasty, everyone enjoyed them. Then a salad that wasn't particularly interesting, but was just OK. The star of the show was the entree, a wonderful chicken paprikash . . . perfectly cooked chicken in an amazing paprika sauce. It was earthy and spicy and a great dish for a cold evening. Dessert was a strudel with a cherry ice cream . . . really boring and a disappointment. The strudel was no better than something from the freezer section at the local grocery store and the ice cream was more "interesting" than good. The chicken was worth a return trip, otherwise the dinner was non remarkable.

Two other comments about the experience. First, the music . . . a guy playing the piano and singing . . . he was awful; loud and off key in a way that set your teeth on edge. The staff was even looking askance at him, so I'm not sure what was up but he shouldn't be invited back. Second was the service . . . it started out somewhat leisurely and degenerated into downright slow and disorganized. There were long waits between courses, the server seemed less than engaged, and dishes weren't cleared in a timely manner. When it was time for dessert and coffee the dessert was delivered but the coffee didn't arrive until after everyone had finished eating. I don't know if this was a problem with the server or bar or kitchen, but it was not well coordinated and the lapse not even acknowledged. I expected a much better overall service experience here and was disappointed, really lackadaisical. I'll give 23Hoyt another try, but I'm not in a hurry to do so.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Portland: Jake's Famous Crawfish

OK, I know I wrote about Jake's as my first blog entry, but I don't think I did them justice and want to tell you about this place again. This is Portland's oldest restaurant, a classic seafood house and the mothership for all of the McCormick and Schmick's places around the country. While the clones are not that successful, real Jake's is a winner every time. This is the place for a real Portland experience with fresh seafood, wait staff in white jackets and always a hub of activity in the bar. If you live here you know, if you're visiting go and if you are in town for business, take clients. Successful and not pretentious, straight forward food and good service.

So, about that bar . . . fresh squeezed juices for the drinks, a large selection of liquors, good beer on tap and in the bottle. The bartenders are great, efficient and friendly, and always make you feel welcome. The best of the best are Bobby and Bert who will remember you and your drink after a visit and make you feel like a regular even if you're only in the bar twice a year. They will make your drink and give you advice about the menu while dealing with a bizillion other things and you'll still feel like the only one in the bar. Excellent service and great people.

While you can get the entire menu in the bar, go to the dining room for the full experience. The menu is printed twice daily depending on what seafood is fresh and available . . . all of that is listed at the top and can be prepared any way you like . . . with wonderful classic preparations of your favorites. There are usually at least six different kinds of oysters to choose from to start things off and many other appetizers for those not inclined to slurp down raw bivalves. Try the crab claws [ask for drawn butter {what exactly is drawn butter, anyway . . . is it a picture of butter? an imitation? is lead involved?} for dipping] or one of the chowders. Entrees can be grilled fish with interesting sauces [swordfish with dill beurre blanc], wonderful salmon [horseradish crusted or stuffed with crab and shrimp and brie] or a steak for our non-seafood friends. The etouffe is wonderful, filled with crayfish tails and chicken [I once took a friend from NoLa there and he ordered the etouffe . . . took one bite and said "there must be on old black woman back there in the kitchen, this is better than home" . . . an excellent testimony].

And then there's always dessert. Purists will opt for the three-berry cobbler, served warm and tasting like a summer day in the Pacific northwest. I am drawn to the banana cream pie drizzled with caramel sauce or the key lime pie, personally. Their chocolate truffle cake used to be wonderful, but a couple of years ago they tinkered with the recipe and its not as good . . . not as moist or dense, less intense chocolate flavor. So its not on my list of favorites, there are better choices.

The staff at Jake's is great, professional and personable with good knowledge of the food and wine that serve you well for dinner. Most of the servers have been here a long time, many for more than twenty years, so they know what they're doing and take pride in a job well done. Ask for Carla or Tony and you're all set for a real Jake's evening.

Be sure to make reservations, it fills up quickly and can have a very long wait. Especially on weekends, or during the summer when there are conventions in town. The bar has a late night menu that offers a number of choices on the cheap, but its usually packed so get there early if you want a table. This is a casual option for upscale dining, but almost everything in Portland is casual [that's not necessarily a good thing . . . jeans at the opera and all]. You'll see prom kids in formal wear, dressed up folks out for a celebration, business people in after work and then the family more at home at an "all you can eat" buffet in for a big night out. Its an interesting mix that adds to the authenticity of the place, so enjoy.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE