Sunday, March 30, 2008
Orlando: Disneyworld: Grand Floridian: Boat Dock
So I picked up the phone and had a chat with my new friends at resort guest services, and here’s the result: a truly magical evening on the lake in a pontoon boat to view the fireworks above the Magic Kingdom. The event started when we went to the marina at the Grand Floridian Hotel to meet our boat and captain [yes, captain . . . you didn’t think they’d let me drive a boat in the dark with ten unsuspecting passengers]. We headed out for a tour of the lake in the gathering darkness, in time to see the floating parade of lighted barges that tours in front of the lakeside resorts each evening. We then sailed over to a perfect spot off shore from the Magic Kingdom, the train station and Cinderella’s Castle in clear view, and waited for the show to begin. Lights in the park dimmed, the music started [heard over a sound system in our boat] and then the blast of the first fireworks. The view was amazing, distant enough from the fireworks to see everything in the frame of the castle with reflections off of the water and the lights of the resorts all around. We were even positioned well enough to see Tinker Bell make her flight from the top of the castle, which was truly amazing. And what a great way to enjoy the fireworks, no crowds!
And if all of that weren’t enough there was the food! The Grand Floridian private dining staff happily provided just the right touches to make the event even more memorable: chocolate dipped strawberries, miniature pastries and, of course, champagne. Then there was coffee for the trip back to the dock.
This event was a great success: the fireworks were fantastic, the desserts wonderful and everyone reclaimed a little of their inner child with smiles all around. While I planned this evening with clients in mind, this would be a great adventure for a group of friends or family visiting Disney World.
DoThisOrNot: DO THIS
Orlando: Disneyworld: Disney's Boardwalk: Flying Fish
Back to Florida for another conference and the Disney craziness that I love, and more chances to eat well and find the unexpected in this over the top world. This time its off to the Boardwalk area, a complex on a lake designed to simulate a classic beach-front boardwalk of an earlier time. The star restaurant at this locale is Flying Fish, a bustling seafood house with a whimsical interior design and thoughtfully prepared food. As with any Disney place, look around you for the details that will make you smile, particularly the golden fish parasailing from the rafters. Then look at your plate, it will make you smile too.
The menu has a nice selection of seafood entrees and includes some beef for the non-fish-friendly. This evening I had a dish of seared sea scallops presented over a risotto with parmesan, fresh peas and pea tendrils. It was an excellent combination, not too heavy but filling and the combination of flavors and textures worked well. The scallops were a tad overcooked to my taste, not ruined, but just beyond that point of perfection. The risotto was on the mark and the real star of the presentation. Others at my table had the “signature” dish which is a snapper crusted in potatoes and sautéed. It’s a nice preparation, looks good on the fish-shaped plate and was very popular. I was less convinced as I found the whole thing kind of bland, but that’s probably just me. There are a number of desserts on the menu, but none of them were enticing enough to call us away from finishing the meal with the cheese plate. The five cheeses arrived beautifully plated and with interesting condiments, including a kumquat marmalade that was a perfect foil to the blue cheese on the plate.
This is not my favorite restaurant in the area, but it can provide a fun evening of nice food in interesting surroundings. Drawbacks include the usual troops of children with Mcdonald’s level restaurant skills [even later in the evening, this being spring break], their associated and equally challenged parental units, and a generally high decibel level. This is not a place to expect quiet conversation or seclusion, but without those expectations give it a go.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
New Orelans: Cafe du Monde
It’s easy to order here, the choice is really only how many of the beignets to have and more is usually better. These hot and crispy pillows of fried dough arrive right from the fryer adrift in powdered sugar and ready to provide that guilty pleasure that only deep fat can offer. An order of beignets and a café au lait and you have either begun or ended your day in fine style. Maybe add some orange juice, but probably not, its all about the coffee and dough here. And a perfect combination they are each and every time.
As I said earlier, this was my first visit to New Orleans since Katrina and I was regularly reminded of the changed demographic that the storm left in its wake. Here at Café du Monde the native New Orleanians were gone, replaced by a newly arrived crew of immigrants with very limited English proficiency and none of the tradition of gracious hospitality and fun that always marked previous visits. I may as well have been in a Dunkin Donuts in New York City. As New Orleans continues to evolve and reinvent itself during its tragically protracted recovery, it will be interesting to see what new traditions may emerge, and sadly, what will be lost.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
http://www.cafedumonde.com/
Sunday, March 23, 2008
New Orleans: Camellia Grill
This is authentic diner food, the kind that you crave after too much fancy stuff, and nothing like the food at those upscale faux diners like Buckhead Diner in Atlanta or its twin Fog City Diner in San Francisco. The burgers are great, and I love the buns . . . which are soft and squishy in just the right way and absorb the juices and condiments. The fries too, hot out of the grease, are just what the doctor ordered. But to take them to a higher level, have them doused with chili and cheese and you’ll be in diner heaven. Get a chocolate shake to wash things down and you’re all set. Until its time for dessert, where the apple pie shines, warmed up on the grill and paired with vanilla ice cream. Who could ask for anything more? Breakfast is available all the time, so if you’re in the mood for an omelet at after a night of partying in the Quarter this is the place to be.
So when in the Big Easy, head uptown to the Camellia and support this local institution, and have some fun as well. If you take a cab, be sure to have the address with you . . . and make sure that the cabbie knows to turn left off of Canal . . . I have discovered that there is a whole new cadre of cabbies that arrived after Katrina and they are not from New Orleans and don’t really know where things are outside of the major hotels and the French Quarter. It’s another shame that the post-Katrina migration took with it the collective knowledge of the city and its colorful history that was a topic of conversation and point of pride for cabbies as they drove you to your destination. I took several cab rides while I was in town and none of the drivers had been in town very long, had any real feel for the city or its history and for the most part did not speak English well enough to carry on a conversation. It was sad.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
http://www.camelliagrill.net/
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
New Orleans: Arnaud's
I started the meal off with a hot dish of crab and cream cheese and spices served with toast. It was rich and tasted of crab in just the right way. The portion was small, just enough to get things going without filling up, and its a perfect companion for a crisp white wine. For the main course Chris recommended the trout amandine and he was right . . . perfectly fried trout with a butter sauce fragrant with sliced almonds. The almonds were crunchy and plentiful, unlike what I have had elsewhere, and the dish was classic cooking at its best. Along with the trout I ordered the pommes souffle . . . a somewhat tricky preparation of sliced potatoes that are fried twice . . . where the second dip in the hot fat causes the potatoes to puff. This is a preparation that I first learned about from Julia Child, but had never seen in person, and these little crisp pillows were wonderful. Try them for sure. Maybe two orders just to make sure they are as good as you think they are. For dessert a crepe stuffed with praline, topped with just enough whipped cream. The balance of flavors and textures in the meal was perfect, the progression leisurely ,and the experience a memorable slice of New Orleans. Check this place out for sure.
A reminder, this is in the French Quarter and it is rowdy, to say the least. During my quiet diversion a fight broke out just outside the door . . . involving pushing, punches, yelling and a baseball bat . . . that had to be broken up and was not pretty. The bartender adeptly bolted the door as things heated up so we were a protected audience, but its not an unusual happening in the alcohol fueled haze that is Bourbon street after dark. Just pay attention.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
http://www.arnauds.com/
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Portland: 1001
After ordering, which took some time because everything on the menu was tempting, an amuse arrived and it was the perfect foreshadow of things to come in one small dish: savory, balanced and surprising with just a touch of whimsy for good measure. Horseradish panna cota, with a topping of steak tartare, served in a shot glass started the meal on a high note and things only got better. Who would have thought of that combination?
Next came a salad with duck prosciutto, dark and rich and an effective foil to the greens on the plate. The star of this course, however, was a foie gras torchon. Its unctuous texture set off perfectly by a blood orange moutard and pistachio puree. This is another one of those dishes that made me want to lick the plate and then ask for more, but as always I resisted for fear of not being invited back. We then had a potion of seared ahi served with a piquant celery and apple relish that was excellent. All of these dishes proved what we had suspected after the amuse, that the chef is adept at putting surprising combinations on the plate that set each other off in texture, flavor and color, taking full advantage of each.
For my entrée I selected the bacon wrapped quail [well, I would select bacon wrapped anything, no surprise here] served with a mushroom stuffing and a ragout of small beans. I know I am repeating myself, but this too was amazing. The usual problem with the quail that I have encountered is that they tend to get overcooked; not the case here where these little flyers were moist and tender with crisp skin. I had to protect my plate from the marauding forks of my dining companions it was so good.
And just when I thought I could eat no more the dessert menu arrived and we agreed to take a look. Well its hard to resist when the choices were so enticing and so we waded in for more. The star of the table at dessert was a wonderful peanut butter crème brulee . . . . I know, hold on . . . which revealed a layer of berry jam underneath. And, to make things even better, a small glass of chocolate milk came along on the plate. PBJ with chocolate milk, a kid’s delight all dressed up for adults and just as appealing. With some bubbles it was the perfect ending to a really FABAAAABULOUS meal.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE!!!
http://www.ten-01.com/
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Portland: The Rhinelander
But, we’re here to talk about the food and there is plenty of it, starting with the fondue that arrives on the table to kick off the meal. Bluehour does not need to worry here, the fondue is overly salty and tastes of processed cheese, but it is the perfect way to start things off here with chunks of bread and a beer. I wonder if the salty fondue is a way to stimulate the thirst and thus the beer sales, like the peanuts and popcorn that are paraded through the stands at the circus before the soft drinks vendor makes an appearance. After the fondue comes soup or salad and I recommend the lentil soup, a simple and hearty bowl that’s perfect on a winter night. It is savory and tastes of the earth in a peasant kind of way. The plentiful selection of “classic” German entrees is pleasant in a kind of stereotypical way and includes sauerbraten, schnitzel, a variety of sausages and other treats. The portions are large and many include my favorites spatzle [remember, I like the carbohydrates] and sauerkraut. The desserts were for me a disappointment, nothing looked worth the calories and the chocolate mousse that I sampled could have come from a boxed mix . . . the best part about it was its serving dish, a cookie shaped like a cup.
Don’t go head to the Rhinelander for fine dining or a quiet evening, but do go and enjoy this Portland institution for a casual evening with a group of friends who would get the joke and enjoy the experience. The Rhinelander is a guilty pleasure, one of those things that more people really enjoy than actually admit to, and that’s just fine. So go, order a beer and a sausage, and polka if you get the chance, its all in good fun and you’ll smile at the memory.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
Saturday, March 1, 2008
Portland: Carafe
In typical bistro fashion there is a wonderful salad frisse aux lardons topped with a poached egg and the perfect vinaigrette. The assiette de cochon is a collection of housemade pork "goodies" that is a great plate for the table to share. Moving on to the main events, the cassoulet is exactly as it should be and an antidote to that winter chill . . . don't have this at lunch or you'll be asleep at your desk in the early afternoon. The bifsteak frites is another dish that is so evocative of a Paris bistro that it can become trite, but here its perfectly prepared and lends credence to what you already know is a well versed kitchen. My favorite thing on the menu, if I had to choose, is the gnocchi gratineed with ham and Gruyere . . . one of those things that I want to roll in but control myself as I want to be invited back.
The pastry chef does equally good work here with an excellent bittersweet chocolate cake, crisp profiteroles with chocolate sauce and a very nice apple napoleon. All well prepared and presented in an unfussy style that is refreshing considering the excesses of spun sugar, sauce designs and other affectations that sometimes overpower the actual dessert on the plate.
I like this place, recommend it and want to eat here often. The staff is great, the food wonderful and the service good, if occasionally slower than I would expect . . . ah, Paris. One other note, if you are attending an event at the Keller make a reservation for dinner and use Carafe's valet service for parking . . . your vehicle will be waiting for you after the performance and a nite cap. And if you're not attending a performance, have dinner at 8:00 just after the theater crowd has departed, the restaurant has sighed a bit in relief, and is ready for more relaxed entertaining. Its worth it on all counts.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE