Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Detroit: Mosaic

This place, interestingly enough, was recommended by another restaurant that was booked for a private party on the night we wanted to go. The competition said Mosaic was great . . . maybe they were trying to look good in comparison, but this was disappointing to the point of yuck. The esthetic of the place was reminiscent of a disco, lots of bright metal and colored glass, with just a touch of sleaze . . . this is upscale dining?



Now on to the food, which turned out to be similar to the decor. How convenient. We started with the salmon carpaccio which was tasty but did not match the menu description. I hate that! When did "traditional accompaniments" become chunky avocado semi-salsa? I liked the dish, but like to have what shows up on my plate to be what I ordered from the menu . . . unless the dish is called "Smoked Salmon Surprise" or something. Then came lamb chops served on a potato gallette with an artichoke ragu-something. The lamb was OK, just lamb chops, no real detectable seasonings, but OK. The potato thing that was served under the lamb was tepid at best, and kind of pastey. The best part of the preparation was the artichoke ragu, well seasoned and HOT. For dessert we ordered the chocolate fondue . . . what can be better than your own personal bucket of chocolate? The fondue was good, and hot, served with fruit, cake and brownies for dippinng. The fruit was fine, the pound cake dry and sandy and the brownies stale. But there's nothing wrong with eating chocolate fondue with a spoon . . . a nice dessert all by itself.



This is one of those dining experiences that when we talked about it after leaving the restaurant said "was that weird or what?" and "did you like the food?". And the answers would be "yes" and "not really". So, I'm sure there must be better places to eat in Detroit and I look forward to checking them out on my next trip. I guess the take home lesson here is . . . don't eat in a disco.



EatHereOrNot: NOT

Friday, January 25, 2008

Portland: El Gaucho

El Gaucho is one of two local steakhouses [the other being Ringside] that fit into that upper tier of beef purveyors that has been having a renaissance: simple food that is well prepared, no surprises and excellent service. Think Ruth's Chris without the chain feel or Morton's without the pretentious presentation of raw beef and wriggling lobsters. And don't think about Shula's, its not worth mentioning. I have had many a wonderful evening at El Gaucho with perfectly prepared steaks, excellent service and the best Caesar salad around. Not this time. I went on a Sunday evening and the "A" team was definitely NOT in the house. Everything had slipped since my last visit . . . from the hostesses [usually impeccably dressed and attentive, not so tonight] . . . to the waiter [chatty and not even close to unobtrusive or professional] . . . to the Caesar salad [where is Sherwood when you need him?]. Disappointing. Actually, for the price of dinner, REALLY disappointing.

Let's start with the Caesar, prepared table side, which is always fun. This time the balance in the ingredients was off . . . not creamy, too salty and just not that great. It didn't even look right. Sherwood, a stalwart of the Portland restaurant scene for many years and the best captain in the El Gaucho dining room, would have been appalled. Like I said, the "A" team was not on duty so things just weren't the same.

Then there were the steaks, which came flying out of the kitchen before we were finished with the salads. I hate being rushed like that. They were properly cooked, but too salty. The beef was good, but I like to taste the beef and not the salt. Was someone on the line new to using the salt shaker? With the steaks we had baked potatoes with the "full Gaucho" treatment: a quarter pound of butter and beer-cheese sauce . . . nothing wrong here, and we're supporting the Oregon dairy industry too! The menu says that the potato is "fluffed table side" which makes me kind of nervous, but it was good, and I didn't need to smoke when it was over. We also had a side dish of roasted corn with chipotle honey butter that was good, but again, overly salted. The word of the day for all of the food we had: SALTY.

And, since I know that you all appreciate a certain sense of decorum, you'll be pleased to know that the folks here ask gentlemen to remove their baseball caps in the dining room . . . unique for Portland. But alas, a true gentleman would already know to remove his hat indoors and would never have thought to wear a baseball cap to anything but a fast food joint in the first place! And I won't even begin to talk about raggedy jeans and tee shirts in a fine dining establishment. Its just too much.

This is a beautiful room with a retro feel that is comfortable and inviting and filled with promise. I will give it another try down the line, but not on a Sunday, and let you know what happens. For a place that is referred to as "El Gouge-O" for its stratospheric prices, there should never be an off night. Hopefully next time it will be back to its more respectable self.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Monday, January 21, 2008

Portland: 23Hoyt

I was looking forward to a visit to 23Hoyt as its a cool space and a part of a group of good restaurants here in Portland. The space is sleek and feels comfortable, interesting stag candle holders on the bar and nice people. Dinner was good, not spectacular, but generally good.

We started with the "naked ravioli" which were spinach dumplings with butter and cheese. It was a nice preparation and very tasty, everyone enjoyed them. Then a salad that wasn't particularly interesting, but was just OK. The star of the show was the entree, a wonderful chicken paprikash . . . perfectly cooked chicken in an amazing paprika sauce. It was earthy and spicy and a great dish for a cold evening. Dessert was a strudel with a cherry ice cream . . . really boring and a disappointment. The strudel was no better than something from the freezer section at the local grocery store and the ice cream was more "interesting" than good. The chicken was worth a return trip, otherwise the dinner was non remarkable.

Two other comments about the experience. First, the music . . . a guy playing the piano and singing . . . he was awful; loud and off key in a way that set your teeth on edge. The staff was even looking askance at him, so I'm not sure what was up but he shouldn't be invited back. Second was the service . . . it started out somewhat leisurely and degenerated into downright slow and disorganized. There were long waits between courses, the server seemed less than engaged, and dishes weren't cleared in a timely manner. When it was time for dessert and coffee the dessert was delivered but the coffee didn't arrive until after everyone had finished eating. I don't know if this was a problem with the server or bar or kitchen, but it was not well coordinated and the lapse not even acknowledged. I expected a much better overall service experience here and was disappointed, really lackadaisical. I'll give 23Hoyt another try, but I'm not in a hurry to do so.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Portland: Jake's Famous Crawfish

OK, I know I wrote about Jake's as my first blog entry, but I don't think I did them justice and want to tell you about this place again. This is Portland's oldest restaurant, a classic seafood house and the mothership for all of the McCormick and Schmick's places around the country. While the clones are not that successful, real Jake's is a winner every time. This is the place for a real Portland experience with fresh seafood, wait staff in white jackets and always a hub of activity in the bar. If you live here you know, if you're visiting go and if you are in town for business, take clients. Successful and not pretentious, straight forward food and good service.

So, about that bar . . . fresh squeezed juices for the drinks, a large selection of liquors, good beer on tap and in the bottle. The bartenders are great, efficient and friendly, and always make you feel welcome. The best of the best are Bobby and Bert who will remember you and your drink after a visit and make you feel like a regular even if you're only in the bar twice a year. They will make your drink and give you advice about the menu while dealing with a bizillion other things and you'll still feel like the only one in the bar. Excellent service and great people.

While you can get the entire menu in the bar, go to the dining room for the full experience. The menu is printed twice daily depending on what seafood is fresh and available . . . all of that is listed at the top and can be prepared any way you like . . . with wonderful classic preparations of your favorites. There are usually at least six different kinds of oysters to choose from to start things off and many other appetizers for those not inclined to slurp down raw bivalves. Try the crab claws [ask for drawn butter {what exactly is drawn butter, anyway . . . is it a picture of butter? an imitation? is lead involved?} for dipping] or one of the chowders. Entrees can be grilled fish with interesting sauces [swordfish with dill beurre blanc], wonderful salmon [horseradish crusted or stuffed with crab and shrimp and brie] or a steak for our non-seafood friends. The etouffe is wonderful, filled with crayfish tails and chicken [I once took a friend from NoLa there and he ordered the etouffe . . . took one bite and said "there must be on old black woman back there in the kitchen, this is better than home" . . . an excellent testimony].

And then there's always dessert. Purists will opt for the three-berry cobbler, served warm and tasting like a summer day in the Pacific northwest. I am drawn to the banana cream pie drizzled with caramel sauce or the key lime pie, personally. Their chocolate truffle cake used to be wonderful, but a couple of years ago they tinkered with the recipe and its not as good . . . not as moist or dense, less intense chocolate flavor. So its not on my list of favorites, there are better choices.

The staff at Jake's is great, professional and personable with good knowledge of the food and wine that serve you well for dinner. Most of the servers have been here a long time, many for more than twenty years, so they know what they're doing and take pride in a job well done. Ask for Carla or Tony and you're all set for a real Jake's evening.

Be sure to make reservations, it fills up quickly and can have a very long wait. Especially on weekends, or during the summer when there are conventions in town. The bar has a late night menu that offers a number of choices on the cheap, but its usually packed so get there early if you want a table. This is a casual option for upscale dining, but almost everything in Portland is casual [that's not necessarily a good thing . . . jeans at the opera and all]. You'll see prom kids in formal wear, dressed up folks out for a celebration, business people in after work and then the family more at home at an "all you can eat" buffet in for a big night out. Its an interesting mix that adds to the authenticity of the place, so enjoy.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Saturday, January 12, 2008

California: In-N-Out Burger

This is the quintessential California burger drive through and its always great. And, you are welcome to wear your baseball cap and shorts here, there is definitely no dress code. And, usually, no dining room either. Just drive through and enjoy. Order a "double double animal style" . . . 2 burger patties, 2 slices of cheese . . . I'm not sure what the "animal style" means, but I like saying it and it tastes good. The fries are hot out of the oil, freshly made and great. When I fly back home to SoCal I often drive through In-N-Out on my way from the airport to my family's house. They can always tell, there's usu sally sauce on my shirt. This is the best fast food burger in the southwest, go check it out.

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Honolulu: Halekulani Hotel: Le Mer

This is it, the best restaurant on the islands and one of my favorites anywhere. A sleek and elegant setting, beautiful presentation and excellent service all rolled into one perfect dining experience. Le Mer pleases every time, with consistently high standards and gracious hospitality. This is what Bali by the Sea [see previous post] thinks it is, but doesn't come anywhere close in any category . . . right down to the badly outfitted wait staff with Denny's like skills.

An evening at Le Mer always starts off with a glass of champagne and a treat from the kitchen, this time tiny popovers . . . one with lobster and the other salmon. After ordering, an amuse arrived, a seafood aspic with lobster that was the only bobble by the kitchen . . . the texture was a rubber/jello cross that was not pleasing . . . but the flavor was nice. Then on to the amazing dinner:

Seared foie gras with fresh asparagus that was perfectly prepared and had an amazing combination of flavors and textures. Beautiful on the plate and even better to taste.

Fresh truffle on a potato galette with an amazing sauce that had some bacon going on. And with it? Truffle Madeleines! Can you believe it? These were the best and I wanted more . . . the whole dish was absolutely perfect.

Veal medallions on a confit of beans with a Roquefort sauce that was dazzling. Just when I thought I couldn't like anything better than the truffle-surprise, along comes this veal dish with its perfectly balanced flavors and satiny beans and I am again inspired to lick my plate [even though the dining room is dark, I refrained for fear of being asked not to return].

An assortment of sweets followed, with just a touch more champagne, and the evening's indulgence was finished. Not too full. Not too buzzed. Not anything but very happy.

Each course was paired with a wonderful wine thanks to the wine steward and the pace of the meal leisurely but not slow. The service was attentive and well done with one exception . . . my waiter. He may have been new or just not "on" that night, but he was the weak link in the service chain . . . but the slack was evenly picked up by everyone else so it was not a problem and barely evident.

And one more great thing about Le Mer . . . they have a dress code! Yes, a dress code! Meaning that they understand that baseball caps are appropriate only if one is attending a sporting event and that tee shirts and shorts are for the beach. How fortunate that there is still someplace in a resort area that will stand up and say no to the ever encroaching lack of decorum that is justified in the name of casual. Manners shouldn't be left at home when one is on vacation, and neither should appropriate clothing. I guess my assumption there may be incorrect, some of these vacationers probably don't have manners at home, so why would them have them on vacation . . . but that's a commentary for another time. Where is Miss Manners when you need her?

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE

Monday, January 7, 2008

Honolulu: Rainbows

This is it . . . the best Hawaiian fast food on the island. What looks like an old hamburger stand is actually the home to the best plate lunch in Honolulu [I know, everyone has their favorites]. The place has walk up windows with a few outdoor tables, that's it. Its a local place that you'll have to ask directions to find, and is packed at the lunch hour with all sorts of people: from giant Samoan men working construction, to suit-types, to school teachers. It looks dirty, but the food is great. My best advice, go a little later and arrive hungry!

What is plate lunch? Its a ton of nasty-good food on a plate, covered with gravy, that makes you want to roll over and sleep on the beach when you're finished. Start with a take-out box . . . add 2 scoops of white rice, one scoop of macaroni salad [2 if you're lucky], some kind of meat [katsu chicken is my favorite, although spam is very popular] then cover the whole thing with brown gravy. Sprinkle on the chili sauce and you're ready to go. Add a cherry slushy float with chocolate ice cream and you can be in bad-food heaven. Give it a shot, really.

For the tourist looking for local color and flavor, a plate lunch joint is the place to visit. And for my money Rainbows is the best . . . just find it and see. Aloha!

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE

Honolulu: Royal Hawaiian: Mai Tai Bar

This is place where the drink was created, on a beautiful terrace overlooking the Pacific in the classic Royal Hawaiian Hotel. I went for lunch and have this to say: BAD SERVICE, BAD ATTITUDE, and BAD FOOD. It was a disaster on every front and I tried to give them some slack.



The bar wasn't crowded, there were open tables when I sat down for a late lunch. After waiting 10 minutes to be acknowledged by the waiter [snippy] I ordered a drink and their Lobster Cobb Salad. The food arrived 40 minutes later . . . with no contact from the waiter in the interim . . . and it was NASTY. The lobster was like rubber and tasteless. The entire salad and plate were tepid, no where close to chilled and dressing nonexistent. Oh, and there was no bacon [listed on the menu description] . . . what's a Cobb Salad without bacon I ask you??? The waiter returned after I was more than half way through the salad and when I asked about the bacon he said "So, do you want me to get some?". My, my. He eventually brought bacon, after I had completed the meal and was waiting for a check and said something like "you already ate your lettuce . . . ". And then said that they'd buy my lunch, basically admitting that it had been a bad experience.



I don't know if they were understaffed, if the kitchen was in chaos or if something was broken. All I know is that the experience was bad and, to compound things, the attitude of the staff was indifferent at best. Thank you, but I'll have my salad in the sun elsewhere next time. And you should too!



EatHereOrNot: NOT!

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Honolulu: Halekulani Hotel: Orchids

Orchids is the main restaurant in the Halekulani Hotel on the beach in Honolulu. The hotel is an oasis in the hustle and bustle of the area and Orchids is the perfect spot for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The restaurant is beautiful and opens to a lawn and views of the pacific. The food is wonderful, seafood with an island sensibility that is beautifully presented, and the service gracious and professional. Lunch is a great time to check this place out, take a break from the beach and relax for a fine meal. The lobster and crab salad is great, the soups always inventive and the coconut cake . . . reason enough to fly to Honolulu. Coconut cake at Orchids and all is right with the world, trust me.

This whole property has a sleek quiet elegance about it that is a welcome tonic to the cacophony that is Waikiki. And happily, all of the guest rooms seem to have full length mirrors installed as people are appropriately dressed and seem to know the difference between "resort casual" and "vacation slob", which is what one usually sees just outside the door. I'm all for casual, but please leave your tattered shorts, "I'm With Stupid" tee-shirts and clear plastic heels back home at the trailer park. Or, visit Las Vegas and stay at Circus Circus.

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE

Hawaiian Airlines

OK, so I had to escape Portland and jumped on a Hawaiian Airlines flight to Honolulu for some sun and a break. As usual, I was impressed by Hawaiian Airlines . . . they are the best domestic carrier in the sky as far as I'm concerned. The planes are pleasant and comfortable [for transpacific flights its all 767 with 2 classes of service], the staff is welcoming and efficient, and the food is actually very good. Now I will admit that i was flying first class, which does taint the experience, but the service in first is much better than I've had on Delta or United and the food is hands down the best. I think what really makes this operation shine is the staff . . . consistently gracious, helpful, and always ready with a smile. What a concept! If you are travelling to Hawaii, give them a try and see what I mean. Even in coach!

FlyHereOrNot? FLY HERE

Friday, January 4, 2008

Honolulu: Hilton Hawaiian Village: Bali by the Sea

Well, here I am in beautiful Hawaii for a few days relaxation and contemplation at the start of the new year. And eating, of course. Bali by the Sea is the upscale dining room at the Hilton Hawaiian Village resort and it is a complete disappointment. Service, atmosphere and food were all disappointments . . . and I had high expectations. The service was disinterested at best [and the servers looked sloppy in ill fitting uniforms, one guy had his tie unhooked like a soda jerk] and the whole experience sub par. Especially for the price.

Sugar cane crusted scallops as a starter were over cooked and rubbery, but the concept was good. Seared sea bass was also over cooked, but the presentation was nice and the risotto side dish was interesting. I passed on dessert, nothing looked interesting. The server was pleasant, but just not into it and it showed. I'd rather eat plate lunch than here again.

There is some good competition here in Honolulu for fine dining and Hilton should step up and do a better job. The resort has a lot of great features, but dining is not one of them.

EatHereOrNot? NOT

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Ashland, OR: Chateaulin Restaurant

This small French restaurant in Ashland, evocative of the best of neighborhood places in Paris or New York, always pleases. I have been eating here for almost 30 years and it is one of the most consistent and lovely places to dine on the west coast; small, elegant and charming without pretense. The limited menu is classic French with some Northwest touches, fresh and well prepared. Over the years the menu has evolved, but not left behind its classical core and technique, which is why this place has been a winner for all of these years.

There was a change of ownership several years ago with the front of house partner, Michael Donovan, leaving. Since then the level of service has declined somewhat and the dining room has never recovered its graceful and efficient hum. That's a shame, because everything else has remained consistently good and this is still a wonderful place to spend an evening.

If you are visiting during the theater season reservations are a must. If you're not attending a play, try to arrive just after the theater crowd leaves, when the restaurant sighs and assumes a more relaxed pace for dining. The after theater crowd can be lively with those just having seen one of the productions mingling with actors and others from the company. The bar is fully stocked, appetizers ready and a nice selection of desserts. Try the giant "Ho Ho" chocolate roll for a hit of chocolate with some champagne.

This is one of my favorites, enjoy!

EatHereOrNot? EAT HERE