OK, all I can say is amazing. This is the jewel of dining at Disney for many reasons, not the least of which is the serene setting and the dress code. An adult oasis of calm and charm, in the spectacular Grand Floridian Hotel, which is a Disney knock-off of the Hotel Del Mar in the San Diego area. The hotel is typical Disney over-the-top, but tucked away on the second floor is this reservations only, jacket required treat. Come prepared to spend the evening, the seven course meal is extravagant in all the right ways and just what the surroundings demand. Sit back and let it wash over you as a tonic from the frenetic activity just outside the doors, and be sure to indulge in the wine pairing, which makes a good thing that much better. So, here's a look at some of the choices you may have during the evening:
After contemplating the beautiful menu an amuse arrived with some sparkling wine and the festivities began. Seared tuna and tartar . . . beautiful and tasting of the sea, with pickled papaya and jicama. Braised Kobe short ribs with roasted mushrooms. Seared Foie Gras on brioche toast with a sauce of cherries that was absolutely perfect. A gamebird consomme as an interlude and on to guinea fowl with asparagus, morels and porcinis that was perfect . . . but what is a guinea fowl anyway . . . are they those cute grey birds one sees at the zoo sometimes? Best not to think about it I suppose. Herb crusted lamb with gnocchi [I love gnocchi] and roasted garlic. And then a cheese course! A dress code and a cheese course, its almost too much to bear, but I held up to the challenge. Dessert offered a kona chocolate souffle, tropical fruit mousse [guests from hawaii, perhaps?], tanzani chocolate mousse. As with the entire menu, so many choices and all wonderful. My favorites were the foie gras and the guinea fowl, but everything at our table was beautifully presented and well prepared.
For a celebratory dinner while visiting the Mouse [happily there are no character appearances here . . . although for special occasions those Disney folks can do anything], a quiet time away from the children [I understand Disney has a sitter service] or just some good old fashioned indulgence this is the place. Make a reservation, leave the flip flops behind and enjoy an evening that you'll not soon forget. Oh, and remember, no matter how well your team is doing a baseball cap is not a sign of anything but bad taste in a fine dining establishment. And the folks here will tell you so!
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Orlando: Disneyworld: Animal Kingdom Lodge: Jiko
OK, so I know that now you’re all rolling your eyes because I’m going to talk about a restaurant in a “real” Disney property in a Disney hotel. One of the things that people don’t sometimes know is that the higher end Disney hotels each have a fine dining room, and they are usually quite good. Most of the restaurants are themed to the hotel, and the hotels themselves are the usual Disney over the top everything. And amazingly, the food in most instances holds up to the theme and everything else that is going on in the place. The dividend is that if you dine later in the evening at these fine dining spots there are usually fewer children around . . . they’ve been at the parks all day and are already in bed. The stereotype of Disney being all fast food burgers and cotton candy no longer holds true at both the hotels and in the theme parks. What a great idea. Now, on to the first of these restaurants that we’ll be talking about, Jiko.
Jiko is located in Disney’s Animal Kingdom Hotel, a huge fantasy safari lodge with some really beautiful decorative touches [check out the chandeliers made from Zulu shields in the grand hall] and a rear terrace that overlooks the animal park where giraffes and other animals are visible at close range. Jiko is on the lower level of the hotel and features African fusion cuisine and a wine list from South Africa. The food is flavorful, inventive, and beautifully presented and the staff, many from Africa, are a lovely accompaniment to the experience.
So now, on to the food. My favorite entrée is the short rib, which is prepared in a coffee based sauce and is slow cooked so that it falls off the bone. The short rib is accompanied by a potato dish that is a mixture of white potatoes and sweet potatoes. I actually prefer as a side dish the macaroni and cheese . . . I am convinced that the mettle of a restaurant can be judged by its macaroni and cheese and this stuff is flying high . . . its baked and cheesy and creamy and I want to roll in it. The starters here are equally fine including an asparagus soup with a curry crème and pistachios and a salad with a very cool watermelon vinegarette. Desserts are equally successful, tasty and beautifully plated. I like the chocolate cake especially. But the stars here are the ice creams, prepared in house and excellent. Ask for a sampler of the ice creams including the sour cream [rich and voluptuous] and lavender [light and floral]. Its all good here, go an enjoy a rich and unique experience. And oh, the wines . . . the list is all South African and is deep in all categories. The staff is knowledgeable and will happily explain and recommend some of these unique labels.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Jiko is located in Disney’s Animal Kingdom Hotel, a huge fantasy safari lodge with some really beautiful decorative touches [check out the chandeliers made from Zulu shields in the grand hall] and a rear terrace that overlooks the animal park where giraffes and other animals are visible at close range. Jiko is on the lower level of the hotel and features African fusion cuisine and a wine list from South Africa. The food is flavorful, inventive, and beautifully presented and the staff, many from Africa, are a lovely accompaniment to the experience.
So now, on to the food. My favorite entrée is the short rib, which is prepared in a coffee based sauce and is slow cooked so that it falls off the bone. The short rib is accompanied by a potato dish that is a mixture of white potatoes and sweet potatoes. I actually prefer as a side dish the macaroni and cheese . . . I am convinced that the mettle of a restaurant can be judged by its macaroni and cheese and this stuff is flying high . . . its baked and cheesy and creamy and I want to roll in it. The starters here are equally fine including an asparagus soup with a curry crème and pistachios and a salad with a very cool watermelon vinegarette. Desserts are equally successful, tasty and beautifully plated. I like the chocolate cake especially. But the stars here are the ice creams, prepared in house and excellent. Ask for a sampler of the ice creams including the sour cream [rich and voluptuous] and lavender [light and floral]. Its all good here, go an enjoy a rich and unique experience. And oh, the wines . . . the list is all South African and is deep in all categories. The staff is knowledgeable and will happily explain and recommend some of these unique labels.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Orlando: Downtown Disney: Wolfgang Puck Cafe
Well, I know that some of you out there may not be Orlando or Disney fans when it comes to dining [or anything, for that matter], but I have to tell you that I travel there frequently on business and always have a good time and eat very well. And, one of my favorites is the Wolfgang Puck place at Downtown Disney [I know, amazing place to find fine dining]. But, don't be fooled into thinking that the large and loud downstairs space is the place to be, make a reservation for the beautiful and much sleeker Dining Room upstairs. Its only open for dinner and you'll have less of a chance of being surrounded by a clump of ill mannered children and their badly dressed parents. And there's something to be said for that at the "Happiest Place On Earth" [wouldn't you pay triple the admission price for the Magic Kingdom if it was a special day for those over 25 only?]. But we're here to talk about the food . . .
I am addicted to the Gnocchi with Braised Boar Bolognese. Its actually listed as an appetizer, but I am proud to report that I have on more than one occasion eaten two portions. Happily. Rumor has it that it will soon be removed from the menu because its not something that our little Austrian friend came up with; a really bad idea Mr. Puck. The Caesar salad is always well spiced and fresh, exactly the right combination. If I can move away from the gnocchi and get an entree, I like the shrimp with lemon risotto. Or the roast chicken, which is crisp and juicy and perfectly cooked. I'm less enamored with the "Original Veal 'Wienerschnitzel'", which has arrived overcooked and kind of tough. And, I'd rather have it with spatzle. But that's just me.
The dessert menu is nonremarkable, which is surprising considering how 'serious' this restaurant and its namesake take themselves. Carrot cake? The Baked Alaska is OK, but nothing to write home about. Last time I just had some of the ice cream with caramel sauce and it was perfect. Perhaps just a glass of bubbles and a piece or four of chocolate will do the trick.
As always there are things that take a place to a higher level and in the case of The Dining Room those 'things’ come in the form of Ani and Larry, the two wonderful bartenders. Even though I get to dine there infrequently, they always remember me and make me feel welcome. Good conversation between making drinks, tasteful evaluation of the clientele [Ani] and laughs all around make for an excellent evening. They are the icing on the cake of this restaurant.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
I am addicted to the Gnocchi with Braised Boar Bolognese. Its actually listed as an appetizer, but I am proud to report that I have on more than one occasion eaten two portions. Happily. Rumor has it that it will soon be removed from the menu because its not something that our little Austrian friend came up with; a really bad idea Mr. Puck. The Caesar salad is always well spiced and fresh, exactly the right combination. If I can move away from the gnocchi and get an entree, I like the shrimp with lemon risotto. Or the roast chicken, which is crisp and juicy and perfectly cooked. I'm less enamored with the "Original Veal 'Wienerschnitzel'", which has arrived overcooked and kind of tough. And, I'd rather have it with spatzle. But that's just me.
The dessert menu is nonremarkable, which is surprising considering how 'serious' this restaurant and its namesake take themselves. Carrot cake? The Baked Alaska is OK, but nothing to write home about. Last time I just had some of the ice cream with caramel sauce and it was perfect. Perhaps just a glass of bubbles and a piece or four of chocolate will do the trick.
As always there are things that take a place to a higher level and in the case of The Dining Room those 'things’ come in the form of Ani and Larry, the two wonderful bartenders. Even though I get to dine there infrequently, they always remember me and make me feel welcome. Good conversation between making drinks, tasteful evaluation of the clientele [Ani] and laughs all around make for an excellent evening. They are the icing on the cake of this restaurant.
EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Detroit: Coach Insignia
Well, the only time I've ever eaten at a higher altitude was in a airplane . . . this steakhouse soars 70+ floors above Detroit with stunning views of the city [which I think looks better after dark] and across the river to Canada. Prices for restaurants of this type usually mirror the height of the building or the expanse of the view, and Coach Insignia is no exception . . . stratospheric. As with all restaurants with spectacular views there is usually a conundrum regarding which is better . . . the food or the view. The food shouldn't distract from the view, but neither should the view be an excuse for mediocre food and service. The view won out here, with poorly prepared food and sporadic service marking our dining experience.
After a vertigo-inducing rocket of an elevator ride, we began the evening at the bar for drinks and a first look at the amazing view. We settled in for a cocktail and decided to have their signature appetizer as well, "lobster corn dogs". Yes, deep fried lobster on a stick! It arrived hot and crisp and very tasty, proving again that you can [and maybe should] try frying anything at least once. It was also at the bar that we encountered the first service misstep of the evening in the form of a very pleasant, but overly chatty, bartender who kept inserting herself into our conversation. Some chat is good, but we had had a long day and needed to do some reflection and were regularly interrupted by our friendly bearer of libations.
Then it was on to the dining room for the main event, at a beautiful table with that perfect view across the river. We started with salads, the Chop-Chop [pretty boring, mostly lettuce with sparse dressing] and the Autumn Salad [poached pear, bleu cheese, baby spinach and caramelized shallot] which was beautifully presented and offered a sophisticated blend of flavors that turned out to be the star of the evening. Then there were the steaks . . . which I'm sorry to report reminded me of a Sizzler. These were not the steaks that one would expect from a restaurant of this pretense, and to compound things there were not cooked as ordered. The worst example was a steak that was ordered medium-well that arrived from the kitchen barely warm inside and much less cooked than the other steaks at the table which were ordered medium-rare. When the undercooked steak was sent back for more fire it returned barely changed, as if the kitchen wasn't paying attention or was trying to make a statement about how they thought steak should be ordered. Bad form for sure. The side dishes of sautéed mushrooms and scalloped potatoes were serviceable, but not memorable. This is basic food folks, nothing fancy or difficult to prepare, and with attention to detail should be wonderful in the best sense of comfort food. Somewhere along the way that lesson was missed by the Coach Insigna.
The service, unfortunately, matched the food. Our waiter was pleasant but not always around when needed. Water glasses weren't filled or plates cleared with any care. Then an overly solicitous wine steward made the proceedings almost like a SNL skit. Maybe it’s me, but I have not had much luck eating at steakhouses recently and my karma continued here. The view is wonderful, the restaurant beautiful [but why doesn't it rotate?] but nothing else about the place comes up to that level. If I am in Detroit again I'll go up for a drink, sitting at a table and not the bar, have an appetizer and enjoy the sunset view. Then I'll take the elevator back to earth and find a good restaurant for dinner.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
After a vertigo-inducing rocket of an elevator ride, we began the evening at the bar for drinks and a first look at the amazing view. We settled in for a cocktail and decided to have their signature appetizer as well, "lobster corn dogs". Yes, deep fried lobster on a stick! It arrived hot and crisp and very tasty, proving again that you can [and maybe should] try frying anything at least once. It was also at the bar that we encountered the first service misstep of the evening in the form of a very pleasant, but overly chatty, bartender who kept inserting herself into our conversation. Some chat is good, but we had had a long day and needed to do some reflection and were regularly interrupted by our friendly bearer of libations.
Then it was on to the dining room for the main event, at a beautiful table with that perfect view across the river. We started with salads, the Chop-Chop [pretty boring, mostly lettuce with sparse dressing] and the Autumn Salad [poached pear, bleu cheese, baby spinach and caramelized shallot] which was beautifully presented and offered a sophisticated blend of flavors that turned out to be the star of the evening. Then there were the steaks . . . which I'm sorry to report reminded me of a Sizzler. These were not the steaks that one would expect from a restaurant of this pretense, and to compound things there were not cooked as ordered. The worst example was a steak that was ordered medium-well that arrived from the kitchen barely warm inside and much less cooked than the other steaks at the table which were ordered medium-rare. When the undercooked steak was sent back for more fire it returned barely changed, as if the kitchen wasn't paying attention or was trying to make a statement about how they thought steak should be ordered. Bad form for sure. The side dishes of sautéed mushrooms and scalloped potatoes were serviceable, but not memorable. This is basic food folks, nothing fancy or difficult to prepare, and with attention to detail should be wonderful in the best sense of comfort food. Somewhere along the way that lesson was missed by the Coach Insigna.
The service, unfortunately, matched the food. Our waiter was pleasant but not always around when needed. Water glasses weren't filled or plates cleared with any care. Then an overly solicitous wine steward made the proceedings almost like a SNL skit. Maybe it’s me, but I have not had much luck eating at steakhouses recently and my karma continued here. The view is wonderful, the restaurant beautiful [but why doesn't it rotate?] but nothing else about the place comes up to that level. If I am in Detroit again I'll go up for a drink, sitting at a table and not the bar, have an appetizer and enjoy the sunset view. Then I'll take the elevator back to earth and find a good restaurant for dinner.
EatHereOrNot: MAYBE
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