Sunday, March 30, 2008

Orlando: Disneyworld: Grand Floridian: Boat Dock

One of the things that people sometimes don’t realize about the Disney experience is that it’s not just about the theme parks [as cool as they are]. The Disney World complex is huge, encompassing many square miles, and provides such varied activities as horseback riding in the woods, fishing on the lake, hikes, water parks, weddings, pirate cruises for kids, and even cooking classes. The thing to remember is that this is Disney, and the folks here are trained to make things happen for guests, and they do. Which is how I ended up in a pontoon boat on the lake one recent March evening. It all started when I began wondering about a unique way to entertain clients while in Orlando and thought of fireworks. As much as I love going to dinner, sometimes change is good and what better place to try an adventure than in the world of Disney.

So I picked up the phone and had a chat with my new friends at resort guest services, and here’s the result: a truly magical evening on the lake in a pontoon boat to view the fireworks above the Magic Kingdom. The event started when we went to the marina at the Grand Floridian Hotel to meet our boat and captain [yes, captain . . . you didn’t think they’d let me drive a boat in the dark with ten unsuspecting passengers]. We headed out for a tour of the lake in the gathering darkness, in time to see the floating parade of lighted barges that tours in front of the lakeside resorts each evening. We then sailed over to a perfect spot off shore from the Magic Kingdom, the train station and Cinderella’s Castle in clear view, and waited for the show to begin. Lights in the park dimmed, the music started [heard over a sound system in our boat] and then the blast of the first fireworks. The view was amazing, distant enough from the fireworks to see everything in the frame of the castle with reflections off of the water and the lights of the resorts all around. We were even positioned well enough to see Tinker Bell make her flight from the top of the castle, which was truly amazing. And what a great way to enjoy the fireworks, no crowds!

And if all of that weren’t enough there was the food! The Grand Floridian private dining staff happily provided just the right touches to make the event even more memorable: chocolate dipped strawberries, miniature pastries and, of course, champagne. Then there was coffee for the trip back to the dock.

This event was a great success: the fireworks were fantastic, the desserts wonderful and everyone reclaimed a little of their inner child with smiles all around. While I planned this evening with clients in mind, this would be a great adventure for a group of friends or family visiting Disney World.

DoThisOrNot: DO THIS

Orlando: Disneyworld: Disney's Boardwalk: Flying Fish

Back to Florida for another conference and the Disney craziness that I love, and more chances to eat well and find the unexpected in this over the top world. This time its off to the Boardwalk area, a complex on a lake designed to simulate a classic beach-front boardwalk of an earlier time. The star restaurant at this locale is Flying Fish, a bustling seafood house with a whimsical interior design and thoughtfully prepared food. As with any Disney place, look around you for the details that will make you smile, particularly the golden fish parasailing from the rafters. Then look at your plate, it will make you smile too.

The menu has a nice selection of seafood entrees and includes some beef for the non-fish-friendly. This evening I had a dish of seared sea scallops presented over a risotto with parmesan, fresh peas and pea tendrils. It was an excellent combination, not too heavy but filling and the combination of flavors and textures worked well. The scallops were a tad overcooked to my taste, not ruined, but just beyond that point of perfection. The risotto was on the mark and the real star of the presentation. Others at my table had the “signature” dish which is a snapper crusted in potatoes and sautéed. It’s a nice preparation, looks good on the fish-shaped plate and was very popular. I was less convinced as I found the whole thing kind of bland, but that’s probably just me. There are a number of desserts on the menu, but none of them were enticing enough to call us away from finishing the meal with the cheese plate. The five cheeses arrived beautifully plated and with interesting condiments, including a kumquat marmalade that was a perfect foil to the blue cheese on the plate.

This is not my favorite restaurant in the area, but it can provide a fun evening of nice food in interesting surroundings. Drawbacks include the usual troops of children with Mcdonald’s level restaurant skills [even later in the evening, this being spring break], their associated and equally challenged parental units, and a generally high decibel level. This is not a place to expect quiet conversation or seclusion, but without those expectations give it a go.


EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

New Orelans: Cafe du Monde



If you’re going to the Big Easy, Café du Monde is one of those “must go” places in spite of the fact that it can be crawling with tourists. Go early in the morning or late at night, when the coffee is steaming in the crisp cool air and you’ll encounter more of a local crowd. An interesting thing happens as you walk from Canal Street toward the Café, pay close attention and you’ll be able to find the place even if you’ve never been there before . . . the sidewalk begins to change color. At first it’s just a hint of white, but as you get closer to the café your path becomes increasingly easy to follow, dusted with powdered sugar that has fallen from the beignets that people have picked up from the take away window to eat while walking. Like crumbs dropped in the forest to provide a trail home, powdered sugar dusts the sidewalk in increasing density until you are on the doorstep of the famous Café.

It’s easy to order here, the choice is really only how many of the beignets to have and more is usually better. These hot and crispy pillows of fried dough arrive right from the fryer adrift in powdered sugar and ready to provide that guilty pleasure that only deep fat can offer. An order of beignets and a café au lait and you have either begun or ended your day in fine style. Maybe add some orange juice, but probably not, its all about the coffee and dough here. And a perfect combination they are each and every time.

As I said earlier, this was my first visit to New Orleans since Katrina and I was regularly reminded of the changed demographic that the storm left in its wake. Here at Café du Monde the native New Orleanians were gone, replaced by a newly arrived crew of immigrants with very limited English proficiency and none of the tradition of gracious hospitality and fun that always marked previous visits. I may as well have been in a Dunkin Donuts in New York City. As New Orleans continues to evolve and reinvent itself during its tragically protracted recovery, it will be interesting to see what new traditions may emerge, and sadly, what will be lost.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE


http://www.cafedumonde.com/

Sunday, March 23, 2008

New Orleans: Camellia Grill

A lovely streetcar ride uptown [or a cab if you’re in a hurry] takes you to this local favorite, and nationally known, diner. Camellia Grill reopened after a too-long closure due to Katrina, its back in full swing offering the best of real diner food with all of the trimmings. There are no tables here, just a serpentine counter that is usually full of folks happily munching omelets, burgers, chili and fountain concoctions prepared right behind the counter. The staff is friendly and calls the regulars by name, but everyone is made to feel welcome when they get a stool. When the stools are full, those waiting for a spot sit on a long bench along the wall [in strict order of arrival] and sometimes that bench is full up too, so a line forms out the door. All of that means that everyone knows this is the place to be, and it is worth the wait.

This is authentic diner food, the kind that you crave after too much fancy stuff, and nothing like the food at those upscale faux diners like Buckhead Diner in Atlanta or its twin Fog City Diner in San Francisco. The burgers are great, and I love the buns . . . which are soft and squishy in just the right way and absorb the juices and condiments. The fries too, hot out of the grease, are just what the doctor ordered. But to take them to a higher level, have them doused with chili and cheese and you’ll be in diner heaven. Get a chocolate shake to wash things down and you’re all set. Until its time for dessert, where the apple pie shines, warmed up on the grill and paired with vanilla ice cream. Who could ask for anything more? Breakfast is available all the time, so if you’re in the mood for an omelet at after a night of partying in the Quarter this is the place to be.

So when in the Big Easy, head uptown to the Camellia and support this local institution, and have some fun as well. If you take a cab, be sure to have the address with you . . . and make sure that the cabbie knows to turn left off of Canal . . . I have discovered that there is a whole new cadre of cabbies that arrived after Katrina and they are not from New Orleans and don’t really know where things are outside of the major hotels and the French Quarter. It’s another shame that the post-Katrina migration took with it the collective knowledge of the city and its colorful history that was a topic of conversation and point of pride for cabbies as they drove you to your destination. I took several cab rides while I was in town and none of the drivers had been in town very long, had any real feel for the city or its history and for the most part did not speak English well enough to carry on a conversation. It was sad.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.camelliagrill.net/

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

New Orleans: Arnaud's

Here I am in NoLa where the music makes your feet wanna dance and the food makes you lose control. Well, maybe the alcohol helps with that too. Either way its a great place to visit, but the ravages of Katrina are still starkly visible. Come and enjoy, support the city and her people, but be a little careful too. Last night I ate at Arnaud's, one of the classic French infused places in the Quarter and it was exactly what you would expect. Old building, beautiful space, wonderful food . . . and too many tourists. So, here's the secret. . . walk past the front door, go two doors down and enter the French 75 Bar, which is a part of Arnaud's [don't go to the first bar, which is kind of a holding area for the restaurant] and serves the same wonderful menu. Its quiet, elegant, the bartenders [Chris is great] know how to make that French 75 for you and you'll have a great time. Tell Chef Tommy that I sent you.

I started the meal off with a hot dish of crab and cream cheese and spices served with toast. It was rich and tasted of crab in just the right way. The portion was small, just enough to get things going without filling up, and its a perfect companion for a crisp white wine. For the main course Chris recommended the trout amandine and he was right . . . perfectly fried trout with a butter sauce fragrant with sliced almonds. The almonds were crunchy and plentiful, unlike what I have had elsewhere, and the dish was classic cooking at its best. Along with the trout I ordered the pommes souffle . . . a somewhat tricky preparation of sliced potatoes that are fried twice . . . where the second dip in the hot fat causes the potatoes to puff. This is a preparation that I first learned about from Julia Child, but had never seen in person, and these little crisp pillows were wonderful. Try them for sure. Maybe two orders just to make sure they are as good as you think they are. For dessert a crepe stuffed with praline, topped with just enough whipped cream. The balance of flavors and textures in the meal was perfect, the progression leisurely ,and the experience a memorable slice of New Orleans. Check this place out for sure.

A reminder, this is in the French Quarter and it is rowdy, to say the least. During my quiet diversion a fight broke out just outside the door . . . involving pushing, punches, yelling and a baseball bat . . . that had to be broken up and was not pretty. The bartender adeptly bolted the door as things heated up so we were a protected audience, but its not an unusual happening in the alcohol fueled haze that is Bourbon street after dark. Just pay attention.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.arnauds.com/

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Portland: 1001

Well, I had dinner the other night at 1001 and all I can say is FAAAABULOUS. Wait . . . that was too gay . . . dinner was wonderful? Fantastic? Excellent? No, it really was fabulous! The best meal I’ve had in Portland, or anywhere, for some time. From the amuse all the way through to the dessert the food and service were perfect and I was ready to go back as soon as we left the restaurant. More than anything, I was surprised. I had eaten a couple of times at 1001 last year and found the room beautiful and the staff pleasant, but the food was fussy and trying way too hard to be “cutting edge” [maybe?]. So I was interested to see how things had evolved since the arrival of a new chef and an overhaul of the menu . . . to say that Chef Jack has hit a homerun is an understatement . . . now, everything works and this is suddenly in the top tier of my Portland restaurants. And now, on to the food.

After ordering, which took some time because everything on the menu was tempting, an amuse arrived and it was the perfect foreshadow of things to come in one small dish: savory, balanced and surprising with just a touch of whimsy for good measure. Horseradish panna cota, with a topping of steak tartare, served in a shot glass started the meal on a high note and things only got better. Who would have thought of that combination?

Next came a salad with duck prosciutto, dark and rich and an effective foil to the greens on the plate. The star of this course, however, was a foie gras torchon. Its unctuous texture set off perfectly by a blood orange moutard and pistachio puree. This is another one of those dishes that made me want to lick the plate and then ask for more, but as always I resisted for fear of not being invited back. We then had a potion of seared ahi served with a piquant celery and apple relish that was excellent. All of these dishes proved what we had suspected after the amuse, that the chef is adept at putting surprising combinations on the plate that set each other off in texture, flavor and color, taking full advantage of each.

For my entrée I selected the bacon wrapped quail [well, I would select bacon wrapped anything, no surprise here] served with a mushroom stuffing and a ragout of small beans. I know I am repeating myself, but this too was amazing. The usual problem with the quail that I have encountered is that they tend to get overcooked; not the case here where these little flyers were moist and tender with crisp skin. I had to protect my plate from the marauding forks of my dining companions it was so good.

And just when I thought I could eat no more the dessert menu arrived and we agreed to take a look. Well its hard to resist when the choices were so enticing and so we waded in for more. The star of the table at dessert was a wonderful peanut butter crème brulee . . . . I know, hold on . . . which revealed a layer of berry jam underneath. And, to make things even better, a small glass of chocolate milk came along on the plate. PBJ with chocolate milk, a kid’s delight all dressed up for adults and just as appealing. With some bubbles it was the perfect ending to a really FABAAAABULOUS meal.


EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE!!!

http://www.ten-01.com/

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Portland: The Rhinelander

The Rhinelander is one of those kitchy places that fascinates and repels at the same time . . . like a train wreck or a public fight between spouses, the question is to look or not and if you choose to look should you enjoy it. It’s the only place in Portland that I know of with a strolling accordionist and a band of singing waiters belting out German drinking songs in between serving pots of fondue and steins of beer. I have wondered what a German tourist would think if some well meaning Portlander brought him to the Rhinelander for a “taste of home”. Probably a combination of amusement, at the realization that much of Oregon [and the US] thinks that this cartoonish piece of Bavaria is what Germany is really like, and horror for the same reason. My reaction would be similar if I thought that the world viewed Hee Haw as an accurate depiction of the “real” America.

But, we’re here to talk about the food and there is plenty of it, starting with the fondue that arrives on the table to kick off the meal. Bluehour does not need to worry here, the fondue is overly salty and tastes of processed cheese, but it is the perfect way to start things off here with chunks of bread and a beer. I wonder if the salty fondue is a way to stimulate the thirst and thus the beer sales, like the peanuts and popcorn that are paraded through the stands at the circus before the soft drinks vendor makes an appearance. After the fondue comes soup or salad and I recommend the lentil soup, a simple and hearty bowl that’s perfect on a winter night. It is savory and tastes of the earth in a peasant kind of way. The plentiful selection of “classic” German entrees is pleasant in a kind of stereotypical way and includes sauerbraten, schnitzel, a variety of sausages and other treats. The portions are large and many include my favorites spatzle [remember, I like the carbohydrates] and sauerkraut. The desserts were for me a disappointment, nothing looked worth the calories and the chocolate mousse that I sampled could have come from a boxed mix . . . the best part about it was its serving dish, a cookie shaped like a cup.

Don’t go head to the Rhinelander for fine dining or a quiet evening, but do go and enjoy this Portland institution for a casual evening with a group of friends who would get the joke and enjoy the experience. The Rhinelander is a guilty pleasure, one of those things that more people really enjoy than actually admit to, and that’s just fine. So go, order a beer and a sausage, and polka if you get the chance, its all in good fun and you’ll smile at the memory.


EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Portland: Carafe

Carafe's setting, across from the downtown Keller Auditorium, is strip mall nondescript; but blink your eyes as you cross the threshold and you are transported to Paris. This wonderful Parisian bistro in the heart of Portland is the closest thing to the French capital on the west coast, and from my experience, some of the bistros in Paris should take note [and a lesson] from the well prepared and thoughtful food and service here. Although a little out of the way, Carafe is well worth the effort and always pleases with its food and atmosphere. Its the perfect place on a cold rainy evening for a fortifying onion soup and red wine or in the summer for a long evening on the patio watching the world go by sipping something cold and nibbling on cheese fries [I know, but they're really good and not like the diner things you're thinking of . . .pommes frites with melted gouda are a whole different plate of deep fried goodness].

In typical bistro fashion there is a wonderful salad frisse aux lardons topped with a poached egg and the perfect vinaigrette. The assiette de cochon is a collection of housemade pork "goodies" that is a great plate for the table to share. Moving on to the main events, the cassoulet is exactly as it should be and an antidote to that winter chill . . . don't have this at lunch or you'll be asleep at your desk in the early afternoon. The bifsteak frites is another dish that is so evocative of a Paris bistro that it can become trite, but here its perfectly prepared and lends credence to what you already know is a well versed kitchen. My favorite thing on the menu, if I had to choose, is the gnocchi gratineed with ham and Gruyere . . . one of those things that I want to roll in but control myself as I want to be invited back.

The pastry chef does equally good work here with an excellent bittersweet chocolate cake, crisp profiteroles with chocolate sauce and a very nice apple napoleon. All well prepared and presented in an unfussy style that is refreshing considering the excesses of spun sugar, sauce designs and other affectations that sometimes overpower the actual dessert on the plate.

I like this place, recommend it and want to eat here often. The staff is great, the food wonderful and the service good, if occasionally slower than I would expect . . . ah, Paris. One other note, if you are attending an event at the Keller make a reservation for dinner and use Carafe's valet service for parking . . . your vehicle will be waiting for you after the performance and a nite cap. And if you're not attending a performance, have dinner at 8:00 just after the theater crowd has departed, the restaurant has sighed a bit in relief, and is ready for more relaxed entertaining. Its worth it on all counts.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE