Ashland, OR: Oregon Shakespeare Festival

OK, so I know this is supposed to be about food and all . . . but the occasional detour can be a good thing. I have been attending the OSF for a bunch of years [more than I'd like to admit] and its always a good time, with some occasionally brilliant theater, and always something to talk about. This year was no exception, but it felt that overall the level of theater was elevated and there was more to think about, even where it wasn't expected, which is a good thing. I was able to see all of the productions that were running during my visit, so here are my snapshot reviews of each of them:

The Music Man: well, I was not looking forward to this old chestnut, but went more out of curiosity than anything else . . . too many community theater productions had numbed me to the real possibilities of this work. In a word, this production was wonderful. Nuanced, playful and rollickingly entertaining. The focus was more on the transformation of the town than on the developing love story, and the wonderful set and costumes, that moved from drab grey tones to brilliant color as the play progressed, fully supported that view. Michael Elich, as Professor Harold Hill, was outstanding in every way, a real star turn [and a surprise for me, I didn't think he had it in him]. The disappointment for me in an otherwise strong cast was Gwendolyn Mulamba as Marian Paroo . . . for me, she just didn't click with the other cast members, stiff and arch when saying her lines and her singing voice lacked warmth. Other than that, this was a wonderful evening in the theater, and would be a great introduction to the American musical to the younger audience member.

Equivocation: this was the jewel of the season, a truly spectacular event that had me fully engaged from start to finish. The small cast, each playing multiple roles, was at the top of their game and this world premier should be around for a long time. Challenging and yet fun, taunt and at times playful this is what good theater should be and often is not. Special kudos to the exceptionally talented [and HOT] John Tufts, who really came into his own at OSF with this performance. RUN to see this production. HURRY.

Macbeth: without giving anything away, the Scottish play is referenced in the above mentioned Equivocation and the potential here for an equally stunning production of this companion piece are mind blowing. Unfortunately, this production of MacB was AWFUL. Its one of my favorites in the canon, and I was excited to see it again and almost, really almost, walked out at the intermission. The cast never seemed to talk TO one another, they just spouted lines in any direction and MacB himself bellowed and thrashed without ever engaging. What an amazing waste of talent, and since there were so many talented actors on the stage it must be the fault of the director or vision, because something here was really wrong. The set was interesting, the costumes serviceable [and sometimes beautiful] but nothing ever clicked. And this far into the season things should have been perfect if they were ever going to be. A big disappointment.

The Servant of Two Masters: a screwball comedy played in various Venetian locales at a fever pitch, this was just plain fun. Wonderful costumes, broad performances, fast paced and with perfect timing to tie everything together this little play had me laughing out loud more than once. A big dose of the giggles all around, well done.

All's Well That Ends Well: in this interesting production a new character, The Clown, was introduced by the director to help the story unfold and act as a kind of ground between the present and the fable on stage. The play was well acted, with some truly touching moments and represents what OSF does exceedingly well. And, we got to see more of Mr Tufts, [but not as much as when he wore some great tights as Romeo, but I digress] which is always a good thing.

Don Quixote: every few years something on the Elizabethan stage catches the imagination . . . of cast, crew and audience . . . and takes on a joyful life of its own. That is the case here, a truly inventive production with strong performances all around, and at its core a revelatory performance by Armando Duran as Quixote. Fully believable, as he completely inhabited the character, Duran seemed to be having as much fun as the audience in discovering each new adventure. This has to be one of my very favorite OSF productions of all time, and I've seen a bunch of them, and I'm smiling now at the memory. By turns touching, beautiful, rousing and funny, this production had it all. BRAVO!

This production had only one flaw, that being the actor Terri McMahon . . . even in a very small role she brought the proceedings to a screaching halt wtih her wooden delivery and pasted on smile. The only upside here is that she had a very small role . . . why is she even on stage at OSF at all? Ever?

Paradise Lost: is, after all, Clifford Odets, so we know from the start that there will be no tap dancing or happy talk going on. What must be accomplished is keeping the focus on the story and not letting the whole enterprise sink under its own weight. That this production was engrossing throughout is testament to the fine work of the ensemble, keeping the pace brisk and the characters believable. Linda Alper was, as always, amazing. Particularly so in this difficult role in a tough play. Richard Elmore, another OSF veteran, brought a quiet dignity to a truly sad role that under girds the action of the play. While I won't say that I enjoyed this outing, its not fun, I did come away moved and challenged and that is in the end all we can ask. Well done.

Much Ado About Nothing: this charming and well known story, in the hands of the marvelous OSF company, is nothing short of a romp. As giddy and head spinning as first love in this WWII setting, with the dark undercurrent never far away. As Beatrice and Benedick, Robynn Rodriguez and David Kelly were perfectly matched and sizzled every time they were on stage together. I would have gladly watched it again if I could have stayed in Ashland another night. The whole production felt like a gift from OSF to its gleeful audience, tied with a sparkling bow of laughter that will not soon be forgotten.

Henry VIII: there is a reason that this play is not often produced, its not very good. But for all its shortcomings it allowed OSF to do what it does best . . . pageantry. Beautiful set pieces framing the action, spectacular costumes and strong performances make this a full evening, if wanting in content. The luminous Vilma Silva as Queen Katherine was amazing, but more than anything its the 'show' that drives here . . . consider it a postcard from another time and enjoy the view.

The bottom line is GET OUT AND SUPPORT LIVE THEATER . . . whether in your home town, at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, or on Broadway. Its our cultural treasure and we need to support and encourage its growth.

Nebraska State Fair

Sometimes you just need to say YES to all kinds of bad food . . . bad in a good way, of course. I spent today eating my way through the Nebraska State Fair in Lincoln on a beautiful late summer day. The focus here is fried things and things on sticks . . . sometimes fried things on sticks . . . and everything I ate was wonderful in a way only fair food can be. So, here are the highlights:

Hot Beef Sundae [yes, you read correctly]: garlic mashed potatoes, sliced roast beef, more mashed potatoes, brown gravy, cheddar cheese and a cherry tomato on top. Its like a roast beef dinner in a sundae bowl and it was GOOD! I could have eaten two, but wanted to save room for other treats. I had never seen anything like this before and hope that it makes its way to the Oregon State Fair in the future.

Deep Fried Peach on a Stick: oh yeah baby! A fresh peach, impaled on a stick, dipped in funnel cake batter and plopped in the hot fat. Crispy and hot, the peach warm and sweet, with a sprinkle of powdered sugar for good measure. Who thinks of this stuff!

Pineapple Whip: I'm not actually sure what this stuff is ... frozen pineapple stuff, kind of like ice cream, but not. Lighter in texture and full of pineapple flavor. Because its cold and light and tastes like fruit, it seems that it should be on the healthy side of the spectrum. But remember, this is the fair, so I'm sure its as full of empty calories and fat as everything else. And, its good!

Deep Fried Oreos: another fried revelation, oreo cookies dipped in batter, fried, then covered with some whipped cream when served. Crunchy, chocolaty, gooey and perfect.

Corn Dogs: who doesn't love a corn dog! They have gotten a bad rap because of the Costco/supermarket premade abominations. But a well made corn dog, dipped in the batter and lowered into the hot fat right in front of you, well, this is another story. Hot and crisp, flavorful corn bread batter and a good hot dog . . . dinner on a stick just in need of a slather of mustard and we're set. More fair goodness.

Deep Fried Twinkies: well, why not . . . frying makes everything better and a twinkie is no exception. Crispy, the outer layer of cake almost caramelized, and the filling [what is that stuff, anyway] warm and gooey. Again I ask, who thinks of this stuff!!

Lemonade: gotta have something to drink, and freshly squeezed is a fair staple and very good. Tart and cold, its the perfect thing to wash down the other tasty treats and refresh the palate in preparation for more fatty fun.

Don't tell the cardiologists about all of this, just enjoy. What fun!!

Omaha: The French Cafe

So, here I am in Omaha and have discovered that its a beautiful city with some great green spaces downtown and wonderful sculpture [I am particularly fond of the herd of bison and flock of geese: http://www.wowt.com/home/headlines/52978517.html]and interesting architechure. Who knew! And, an area called Old Market that is about three blocks of restaurants and clubs in the old market area that was alive with people on a beautiful summer evening. Among all of the this is The French Cafe, a real find of a French bistro in an old brick warehouse. Nice bar space, large dining room and a cool patio as well.

And on to the food. I started with Coquilles St Jacques which was described as seared scallops in a tarragon cream sauce with crimimi mushrooms and creme fraiche. Well, maybe. The sauce was flavorful and had a nice consistency, but the 'seared' scallops showed no signs of being near a saute pan, and there weren't many in the dish. The dish was served in the traditional puff pastry case, which was the main problem. The pasty was flaccid [yes, I said flaccid] at best and I discovered the reason: they covered the plate on its way from the kitchen to the table . . . so what probably started out as crisp, got steamed on its journey from the kitchen and the dish was ruined. For the entree I had a really good roast chicken, served on a bed of lentils with a roasted garlic and green peppercorn sauce. The chicken was perfectly cooked, moist and flavorful and I love lentils . . . so it was a good match. The lentils were well cooked as well, not to soft, and the garlic mustard sauce brought everything together. After the entree I had a small salad with a perfect vinaigrette.

This place is know for its mussels and has an entire section of the menu devoted to "les moules" with ten different preparations. I wasn't in the mood for mussels this evening, but saw several orders come out of the kitchen and they looked and smelled very good.

One thing that can elevate the experience is the staff, and in this case Kyle the bartender and Michael the manager were good company and kept the evening enjoyable. Even in the face of a completely drunk and abusive regular . . . arguing over a tab that he walked out on . . . they maintained both their composure and sense of humor. In spite of the misstep with the appetizer puff pastry, this was an enjoyable evening and I will return the next time I'm in Omaha.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Jonesborough, TN: Earth and Sky Confections

So, Jonesborough is the oldest town in Tennessee, a picturesque place filled with restaurants, stores [always called a shoppe] and stuff. Its also the home of the National Storytelling Festival and International Storytelling Center [with a degree program at ETSU], which is very cool. In a town of this type, folks in tee-shirts with 'sayings' on them, sipping from over sized cups and generally not at their best, it was with trepidation that I was lead to Earth and Sky Confections [described as a chocolate shop]. I was expecting something like Rocky Mountain Chocolates . . . Rocky Road and caramel apples and all . . . but what I saw blew me out of the water. This place is a gem, the chocolates jewels of color and bursting with flavor. I was immediately reminded of Vosges Chocolates in Chicago and Joseph Schmidt of San Francisco. And I'm in a tiny town in the Tennessee mountains. Amazing!

So many interesting flavor combinations: chili, herbs, honey, citrus and all perfectly beautiful. I could not decide, so had as many different pieces as could fit into a box without looking the complete pig. Or, maybe not. Anyway, this place is a spectacular surprise, tucked behind a nondescript storefront, and you should NOT MISS IT.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Asheville, NC: Corner Kitchen

I eat at this place every time I'm lucky enough to be in Asheville, North Carolina and am always rewarded with delicious, well prepared food from a menu that changes frequently and is always engaging. The place is a fairly casual space, in a old house in the historic Biltmore Village area and is crowded at prime time for dinner. I've been here in all seasons, this is actually my first summer visit, and have always seen many other happy diners, on the terrace if the weather is good.

Tonight the amuse was a potobello mushroom and smoked mozzarella relish on a small cracker. It was full of flavor and a great little bite . . . and because of the smoked cheese, it actually tasted like bacon was involved. How can you not like that! My starter was a spicy gazpacho with a cilantro cream that tasted like summer and had some nice heat going on. My only complaint was that the soup was tepid, I prefer my gazpacho chilled . . . really cold . . . and this did not deliver. If it was colder, I think it would have been near perfect. The entree was meatloaf . . . yes, meatloaf . . . made with three kinds of meat and served with three sauces. It was very tasty and there were some pistachios in the mix as well. Accompaniments included wonderful cheese grits and vapid greens . . . the weakest thing on the menu. For dessert a passable key lime tart, the highlight of which was the ginger snap crust, otherwise not remarkable.

I enjoy this restaurant, the service is friendly, the guys working in the kitchen are gregarious and seem to enjoy what they are doing, and the food is good . . . sometimes rising to wonderful. The changing menu will always have something surprising and in tune with the season. Give this place a go and let me know what you think.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Atlanta: The Varsity

OK . . . so you know I like just about everything . . . so here's on one the downside of fine dining. A drive in! With car service. In downtown Atlanta. Its an institution, a weird one, but an institution none the less. First of all, its HUGE. Car service for a bunch of cars, then a parking deck and large inside space to eat as well. The food is exactly what you'd expect . . . hot dogs and hamburgers [emphasis on the dogs here], and if you're eating inside, a serving of attitude from the women behind the cash registers waiting to take your order. The car service guys are friendly and great, inside . . . its all business. At lunch the place is hopping with business people, students from GATech and everyone else in the neighborhood. Its casual, fast and . . . well . . . interesting.

My advice would be to stick with the hot dogs, and get them served with stuff. I like the chili and slaw dog the best, but there are a number of variations. The thing to keep in mind here is that the dogs are small, you'll need two at least, its not foot longs at the ball park. The fries are good, and you can get them smothered with chili and cheese too to continue the bacchanal. Then its time for beverages, which of course is all Coke products. But then there is the curious case of the "frosty orange" or "orange frosty", both listed on the menu but when I asked no one could give me an answer as to the difference. I should probably order one of each sometime and do a taste test myself . . . its orange and cold and refreshing and kind of slushy like . . . go figure.

This is a cool place for a quick stop, take the kids and enjoy. Don't expect fine anything, its a drive in for goodness sakes, but its fun. Its been featured in magazines, on the radio and probably TV as well, and is an Atlanta institution worth a visit. Have fun, and if you can figure out the frost conundrum, let me know.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Atlanta [Decatur]: Watershed

I have heard about Watershed, and particularly their fried chicken, for some time and finally got the chance to check it out. My first piece of advice is to watch carefully as you are driving in the neighborhood . . . we drove right by even when we were looking at the addresses and paying attention. The second piece of advice is that this is not a place to take clients or expect to have quiet conversation . . . the room is very loud. Not that that's a bad thing, but just be aware in advance. The third piece of advice is go! The food was wonderful, southern traditional cooking well executed and plentiful.

So . . . for starters there was a saute of wild mushrooms over toast spread with goat cheese. What's southern about that I don't know, but it was really good, the mushrooms well seasoned and tasting of just a splash of sherry. Then a real southern starter, pimento cheese spread . . . that neon-orange salve so good on crackers, but served here with celery so that it counts as a vegetable. Way to go! [as an aside, I will say that my pimento cheese is better . . . especially now that I'll serve it with celery] Then on to the vaunted fried chicken. And it lived up to the reputation. . . crispy on the outside, moist on the inside and well flavored. Its no surprise that on the days it is available they tend to run out. Also on the plate were perfect mashed potatoes and field peas. And finally biscuits that were some of the best I've ever had. My only complaint was that there was no gravy involved . . . what are mashed potatoes without gravy? And I'm sure, with everything else being so good, the folks in the kitchen would make some amazing gravy. Bring it on! Double chocolate cake for dessert, good but not great. Just get more chicken if you're still hungry.

Overall, this was a great place for a casual meal with friends. Good food, fun atmosphere and, oh yes, cute waitstaff. Its all good. So head to Watershed and have a fun evening . . . and let me know what you think.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Atlanta: FAB [French American Brassierie]

This place was recommended to me by a woman I was sitting next to at Buckhead Diner and she was spot on. I was skeptical when we walked to the place and saw that its in a new building, and upon entering you can see that they have worked hard to make it look "old" and "French" . . . whatever that means. FAB is downtown and within walking distance of the major hotels, so that is a plus for everyone, and they have a rooftop deck for drinks that is perfect. Inside its white table clothes and a more formal service, though not stuffy. The menu is classic bistro fare and the wine list is small but good for a casual evening. And, the food was well prepared and thoughtful, a kind of French version of Buckhead Diner, in the sense that its comfort food and classics.

For starters I had a really well done foie gras terrine, presented with a rhubarb/strawberry compote, savory shortbread cookie and pistachios. It was a small portion and a perfect starter. My entree was a perfect roast chicken [always a good gage of the kitchen] served with duck fat roasted potatoes that were crunchy and melting all at the same time. I needed more of them. Finally, profiteroles for dessert . . . servicable more than good, with a chocolate sauce that I could improve on at home. So, don't go for dessert.

This was a good place for a fun, casual evening with clients. The food straight forward and well executed and the atmosphere pleasing. The one bump in the evening was the service, which seemed to be confined to our waiter [of course] and was completely saved by the waiter from an adjacent table who saw what was going on, stepped in and make everything go well. Congratulations to him for that move and a note to the management: either train the staff you have or get more folks like the guy who used to work for the BD Group. He knew what he was doing and was a great representative of the restaurant.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Atlanta: Buckhead Diner

This is a great spot in the Buckhead neighborhood, just off of one of the many streets that bear the name "Peachtree something" . . . how did that happen? The place is silver and seems to glow at night in a welcoming way. Drive up to the valet and head through the doors into a wood lined, clubby feeling space with a great bar, mostly cool waiters and great food. All of the diner standards are here in updated versions, they are justly famous for the meatloaf, with some interesting variations as well.

On a recent visit there was a new twist, a 3-course prix fix menu for $29 that has some excellent options and sounded great. So I went for it and was very impressed with its New Orleans themed offerings. The first course was an excellent sausage and chicken gumbo, flavorful with the right amount of heat and well rounded spicy notes. The second course, corn and lobster fritters, was less successful. They had a somewhat gummy texture, but the flavor was good and the accompanying sauce was well prepared. The highlight was the entree, a roasted chicken breast with an amazing vegetable sauce that had, again, great spices and good heat. I ate it all happily.

This is a quintessential American diner experience, in an upscale kind of way, with familiar food prepared well. It is reminiscent of Fog City Diner in San Francisco, but without the staff attitude. My only real complaint here is that sometimes the service is a little lax . . . long waits to take orders, no water, time between courses . . . but that is not the usual and seems to be more related to individuals than to the restaurant as a whole. I try to make it to BD at least once each time I'm in Atlanta; the bar is a good place to eat if you're alone and for lunch or dinner this is a perfect place to take clients or colleagues.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Air France: San Francisco to Paris to Milan

So, I had never been in the pointy end of an Air France 747 and had heard "good luck with service" from a couple of people. I found everything to be very well done, the staff was pleasant and professional and the trip went by quickly. And, most importantly, the champagne was cold when we stepped on board and continued to flow throughout the trip. So, here's the menu:

Hors d'Oeuvre: Tomato and cured ham, a very nice lemon scented sauce and some asparagus. Light but well flavored, and good bread to go along with it.

Main Course: Pan-seared tournedos of beef with a wild mushroom sauce, risotto and sugar snap peas. Everything was tasty, if the beef somewhat over cooked [but I can understand that due to the logistics]. The risotto was formed as a cake and had a very light texture that was pleasant with the mushroom sauce. The peas even snapped, which was nice as they had been sitting around for a long time I'm sure.

Cheese course: three very good cheeses, all of which the flight attendant could name [in contrast to the waiter at a certain Chicago restaurant]. I think that they did a modification of the service, in that the served the cheese along with the main, it made the table crowded and was probably not standard. But the cheese was good!

Dessert: a selection, including a very nice peach tart and mango sorbet.


For breakfast there was scrambled eggs with herbs in a crepe, along with grilled sausage and potatoes. The eggs were tasty but overcooked, again a function of the logistics of holding them for so long while in the air. The fresh fruit salad and pastries were both good additions.


We transferred onto a smaller plane for the trip from Paris to Milan, and in about an hour the flight attendants served a boxed cold lunch and beverages to the entire plane. Smoked salmon, salad, bread . . . nice touch and when was the last time you had anything on a flight of that length on a US carrier?

I was very pleased with the Air France product and will use it again. Solid all around, not really great, but more than what I was expecting.

FlyHereOrNot: FLY HERE

Charleston: Peninsula Grill

I have eaten at the Peninsula Grill before, and its wonderful . . . but when I'm in Charleston I always head to the Peninsula for their Coconut Cake. Its absolutely the best ever, a fairly dense cake [that seems light], with multiple layers filled with a fluffy white icing and toasted coconut. The outside is dusted with more coconut and a piece regally fills an entire dinner plate. I am a big fan of coconut cake and this and the one at the Halekulani in Honolulu are my two favorites [and are very different from each other]. When you're in Charleston don't hesitate . . . head to the Peninsula Grill and get you some cake . . . and to be really decedant get it to go and take it back to your hotel room where you can enjoy it privately, even perhaps licking the plate.



EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Chicago: Frontera Grill

I am always wary of restaurants helmed by big name TV celebrity chefs, so I approached dinner at this Rick Bayless establishment with some trepidation. I had heard it described as “uppity Mexican food” so went with more curiosity than anything else and was pleasantly surprised. I sat at the kitchen bar and ordered small plates and heady apricot infused margaritas with a spicy rim, and nothing disappointed. The ambiance is casual in a kitchy southwest kind of way, and the service efficient and smiling. The one thing to know is that they room is LOUD, so don’t plan on intimate conversation over dinner. The vibe is fun and exuberant, go have a good time and enjoy the experience.

The flavors here are robust and combined with different textures for maximum impact; everything I tasted was vibrant and delicious. The taquitos de pollo, stuffed with smoked chicken and salsa verde were crispy and flavorful and the accompanying guacamole velvety perfection. The sopes rancheros were little cornmeal boats filled with a hearty beef stew and roasted tomatoes that I could have eaten all night and the quesadillas were a revelation. Not tortillas filled with cheese and griddled, but croquette-like pockets of cornmeal dough filled with jack cheese that were absolutely amazing. Again, I was hooked.

The one thing that you just have to ignore are the pouty faced faux-models at the front desk, who seemed annoyed that they had to interact with clients. Ladies, neither you nor the restaurant are that big a deal, so get over yourselves and remember that without diners you’d be back under a streetlamp in the cold Chicago night. Check this place out and have a good time, you’ll come away with a happy stomach and a new appreciation for celebrity chefs [or at least Mr. Bayless].

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Chicago: BIN36

Wine bar? Restaurant? Movie theater? Cheese bar? Wine shop? All of the above? Yes, that’s it. BIN36 is a wide open, sleek space with light wood floors and high ceilings that perfectly set the stage for the dining experience that is offered. And, there are choices there as well. You can sit at the bar and enjoy a flight of wine or perhaps relax in the café area with a snack. Or head into the dining room, really all parts of the same large space, for a more formal meal. You can even head up to the loft area and catch a movie on certain nights. Then, just to the right of the front door, is my favorite spot, the CHEESE BAR. Yes fellow fromage-whores, there is a bar with a massive selection of cheeses all waiting to be discovered. For my cheesy friends, and you know who you are, this is nirvana. Flights of cheese in the same style or perhaps a selection of cheese from one country? It is all possible, and beautifully presented, at the Cheese Bar.

In the dining room the food is simply prepared and beautifully presented with some inventive combinations that are always interesting. On my last visit I had a beautiful asparagus salad [short lengths stacked Lincoln-log style] topped by a light and yet sumptuous crab salad. The combination was perfection, a culinary herald of spring. Also on offer is a wonderful beet salad with blood oranges and goat cheese that is rollicking in its flavor and color composition. Red and gold beets made the plate sparkle and the flavors were intense without being overpowering. A winner for sure. As an entrée I selected the roast chicken [always a good test for the kitchen, something so primal is often poorly executed] which arrived moist, crisp, and flavorful, really perfect. The only misstep were the accompanying “lemon and black pepper dumplings”, which seemed like a nice idea but were overly salted and remained on my plate when it went back to the kitchen [and, interestingly, were not commented on by the waiter . . . but we’ll get to that later]. Desserts can only be described as fun, a chocolate and peanut Nepoelian layered with a coffee caramel that was a small delight on the plate. Crunchy, salty, chocolaty and gooey all at once, what a dessert should be.

The only real drawback to a dinner date at BIN36 is the service, which I would characterize as casual at best: long waits to get the affable waiter’s attention followed by equally long pauses between the courses during which nothing was cleared. While this is not fine dining in the formal sense, its not Red Robin either, and with more attention to the mechanics of good service [and maybe more care by the staff] things would really be elevated. The kitchen obviously cares, as evidenced by the food, its time for the front of the house to either step up or step out of the way.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Chicago: Marshall Field [well, Macy's]: Walnut Room

OK, I know you’re going to think I’m crazy for talking about a restaurant in a department store, and an old one at that, but this place is a classic and I love it. This is what shopping downtown and having lunch during the excursion was all about in the heyday of American cities. I remember it from my smaller city experience with my mother at Buffum’s in Long Beach, and we are the poorer for its decline, both as a reprieve from the frenetic pace of shopping and the civilized stop for a fine lunch and conversation that it offered. Happily the Walnut Room remains a beacon in downtown Chicago, a reminder of a time gone by and yet still here. The room is elegant and formal; at my last visit the spring flower show was on and the room’s center was dominated by a huge fountain overflowing with flowers and flamingos . . . who could ask for more. Come for lunch or tea and don’t hurry. And, let the Macy’s goons know that this kind of place should be celebrated and cared for, rather than removed as has happened at Meier and Frank [Portland] and Wannamaker’s [Philadelphia] and I’m sure other of the old downtown landmarks no longer know by their “real” names.

The food at the Walnut Room is actually very good, updated luncheon fare from some of the chefs featured in the food hall of the store. The chicken pot pie arrives fragrant and steaming under its chapeau of puff pastry, just like it has for ages I’d imagine. Swedish meatballs with chive mashed potatoes, accompanied by the obligatory ligonberry sauce, updated by Marcus Samuelson, are heartier fare perfect for a chilly day [which was the case on my visit].

The wait staff seems to have been around for ages and is a perfect fit for the ambience of the room. Mostly women of a certain age and size, they graciously welcome guests into this sanctuary on the seventh floor and time slips away. Wonderful. When you’re in Chicago and on State Street, don’t miss the opportunity for a visit to the Walnut Room. My only complaint was the disappearance of the foil wrapped walnut candies that used to be presented with the check. They were a nice touch and I would celebrate their return.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Chicago: Cite

This restaurant reminded me of the hot guy you see across the room . . . great looking, well dressed, sparkling eyes . . . you say hello and he responds and he's, well, vapid. Nothing to say, not exciting, banal and disappointing. From service to food to presentation, Cite was vapid and banal. The only thing is has going for it is the view . . . so go up and enjoy the view for a cocktail and then find a good restaurant for dinner. Otherwise you're going to be disappointed.

The menu on line looked promising, and the reviews were good, so I figured I'd give it a chance [against my better judgement]. For the entire evening it felt like somebody wasn't paying attention, neither the dining room nor the kitchen were anywhere close to adequate for a restaurant of this price range and calling itself fine dining. First the service: I don't need the waiter to tell me what's on the menu by reciting the names of the dishes and their preparations just as they are printed . . . I can read. I shouldn't have to ask for a napkin or water or bread . . . that's supposed to happen automatically. When the food arrives the waiter should check back quickly to see if everything is alright [it was not]. When presenting the cheese course, the waiter should know what kind of cheese is on the plate, duh! And, there shouldn't be a squirt bottle of cleaning solution left on the adjacent table through the meal . . . this is, after all, supposed to be fine dining. And lastly, the waiter shouldn't be glib about everything that went wrong during the evening, that doesn't make it better and only cements the impression of amateurism on every front.

Now for the food. The best thing we ate was the amuse, a tiny cup of a chilled mango and pepper soup that was divine. And, unfortunately, set our expectations for wonderful things to follow when we were actually at the top of the peak and it was all down hill from there. The jumbo lump crab souffle was OK, really just a couple of crab cakes, and why it was "jumbo" I'll never know. Was it from a large crab? Then came the entree, a New York strip served with "chef's wild mushrooms" and Pomme Puree . . . the steak was over cooked to leather [well done rather than the medium rare that was ordered] and the Pomme Puree was a blob of mashed potatoes placed on the plate as if by a cafeteria worker at a grammar school. The cognac sauce on the plate was cloyingly sweet and more appropriate for dessert. Also on the plate was a blue cheese ravioli which was undercooked [tough pasta] and obviously from the freezer section at Costco. My companion had the rack of lamb, which she said was good but not remarkable. Finally, a cheese plate with four cheeses . . . only three of which the waiter could identify and he didn't know what the other things on the plate were either. What??

The overall dinning experience was disappointing to say the least . . . for a restaurant this expensive at least the service should be competent. I have always been wary of restaurants with views [this place is 70 stories up] and should have trusted my gut on this one [rather then filling it with mediocre food in this town full of good restaurant options]. With a view like this the place is compensating for something, and like a guy with a big truck, something is going to come up short. And in this case the short was service, food, experience. Don't bother with this place, its a disappointment from start to finish.

EatHereOrNot: NOT

Charleston, SC: Charleston Place: Charleston Grill

The Charleston Place hotel is one of the Orient-Express properties and that are justly known for their elegance and luxury and the Charleston Grill is the fine dining room on the property. While it is a beautiful and finely appointed room, it is not stuffy and the atmosphere is almost jovial [perhaps its just the southern way]. The room was comfortable and the staff friendly, but the food was a disappointment. The menu is divided into categories: "cosmopolitan", "southern", "pure", "lush". WTF? It made no sense to me and the dishes in each category were neither consistent nor related. I found it all kind of weird.

From the "lush" category I choose Truffled Mushroom Soup . . . you already know how I feel about truffles, so this was a no brainer. It was, sadly, a waste of truffles . . . inedible. It was so heavily salted that it was like drinking sea water. I sent it back after two bites and hoped for better things. Next from the "pure" section was Sauteed Pheasant Breast with winter root vegetables and lemon roesmary jus. The pheasant was a little overcooked but flavorful, and the vegetables tasty. The overall effect was of an "almost but not quite". I skipped dessert.

Highly recommended, beautiful and ultimately unsatisfying . . . have you had dates like that?

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

Columbia, SC: Mr. Friendly's

This place is GREAT! Its a fairly small, casual restaurant with food that belies its simple surroundings. The space is an old bakery: brick walls, high ceiling, wood floors and filled with light. The food is 'new southern', which for me translated to delicious. I had lunch here and would have returned for dinner had I still been in town.

So, on to the food: buttermilk fried cube steak . . . the best 'chicken fried steak' I've ever had. Couple that with garlic mashed potatoes with black pepper cream gravy that was perfect and I'm in heaven. The plate also had a wonderful roasted corn salsa [this must be the new part of new southern] and a beautiful succotash. I was stuffed and still could have eaten the whole thing over again. For desert we ordered the key lime pie, and it was the only disappointment. The texture was rubbery and was more like something from a jello mix. I should have just had more mashed potatoes and gravy!

This was a wonderful discovery [thanks Bob!] and I will happily return. My only reservation is the name . . . does anyone else think that Mr. Friendly is a euphemism for a certain part of the male anatomy?

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

Sarasota [Siesta Key]: The Lobster Pot

This place was fun, a beachy restaurant full of "lobster stuff" that is family owned and run and had a cool, laid back vibe. Its a world away from downtown Sarasota out on Siesta Key, which is really just a short drive. There is a kitchy dining room and patio for dining, and a small bar where you can eat as well. So take your pick and enjoy.

The menu is just what you would expect from a New England seafood shack: clams, lobster [of course], fish of all sorts and great sides [the cole slaw was exceptional]. I had the lobster newburg, becuase I'm lazy and didn't want to work at getting my lobster out of the shell. The sauce was flavorful and filled with lobster, all filling a crips puff pastry shell. Good stuff. And as I said, the cole slaw was great, as were the baked beans.

If you're looking for a fine dining experience, don't go here. If you are looking for good seafood in a casual, fun environment this is your spot. Check it out. And note that there is a city parking lot behind the restaurant, its hard to see at night, but with street parking tight you'll celebrate when you find it.

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

http://www.sarasota-lobsterpot.com/

Miami Beach: Joe's Stone Crab

OK OK OK . . . I know its been a long time since my last posting; I'm not sure where the time went or what happened, but now I'm back. And in Florida enjoying the sun, one of my favorite things to do in the early part of a new year. So last night on South Beach we ate at Joe's Stone Crab, and institution that has grown to massive size over its long life and still delivers what its famous for: STONE CRAB. You order the crab by the size of the claws and it arrives on a bed of ice with a great mustard sauce . . . everyone's crab on one giant plate. For those of you not familiar with stone crab its a local delicacy and only the claws are served [they are ripped [removed sounds nicer] from the crab one at a time, then the crab is thrown back and happily regrows a new claw for later consumption . . . its an ongoing cycle apparently], and always chilled. The sides here are great, including a creamed spinach with garlic and sweet potato crisps.

This is a tourist and locals spot, large and loud filled with familes and couples and business diners. There is a sign at the door that "appropriate" attire is required . . . what that means I don't know since there were people dressed in shorts and bad shirts as one would find in any beach destination. I also saw a guy with a shirt that I'm sure had been embelished with a bedazzler . . . and it was not a pretty sight. So, try this place out, eat the crab claws and smie and the dress code. And, even though its on SoBe the vibe is anything but what has come to be the norm here, so enjoy and don't feel like you need lipo or implants or a fake tan to go.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE

http://www.joesstonecrab.com/index.html