Madison, WI: Nostrano

This quirky little space near the state capitol provided not only a cool ambiance, but really wonderful food as well. Quirky in the sense of the space's aesthetic [think almost Zuni Cafe in San Francisco], and the menu, but both in a very good way. The food was engaging without being fussy, and fresh and locally sourced as well.

I started with a spring radish salad, with both the greens and the radishes from the chef's garden. I will admit to a fondness for radishes, so it was a must have for me. The greens were a varied mixture, the sliced radishes crunchy, and the chive vinaigrette flavorful without being overpowering. There was a crouton made from sunflower bread, topped with a local goat cheese to complete the plate. The flavors worked well together and the dish was a success, with my only complaint being that the greens were tepid and somewhat limp. But the flavors were there, and that was a minor misstep.

For the main course I had a roasted squab, served with braised cabbage, buckwheat spatzle, and trumpet mushrooms, and foie gras. The squab was perfection, crisp on the outside and rosy red in the middle. The base of the dish, the spatzle,cabbage, mushroom concoction [almost a ragout, really] was excellent ... I could have eaten it as a main course. The foie gras, for me, was a gratuitous addition to the plate, not really melding with anything, just a cold chunk placed on top of the rest of the things on the plate. And, you now how much I like my foie [I'll risk a gout attack for some], but it really made no sense with the rest of the ingredients.

For dessert, a chocolate crema,served with buckwheat pizzelle, poached cherries [dried and fresh, poached in a cherry beer that was AMAZING], and a cherry gelato. AS much as I liked everything else, this was the best thing that I ate hands down. The combination of flavors and textures and temperature really played well off of each other, and I wanted more.

This is a stylish little restaurant in the capitol district and I highly recommend it. The servers were engaging, the space interesting, and the food held up its end of the equation as well. If you're in Madison, check it out.

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