Sunday, March 30, 2008

New Orelans: Cafe du Monde



If you’re going to the Big Easy, Café du Monde is one of those “must go” places in spite of the fact that it can be crawling with tourists. Go early in the morning or late at night, when the coffee is steaming in the crisp cool air and you’ll encounter more of a local crowd. An interesting thing happens as you walk from Canal Street toward the Café, pay close attention and you’ll be able to find the place even if you’ve never been there before . . . the sidewalk begins to change color. At first it’s just a hint of white, but as you get closer to the café your path becomes increasingly easy to follow, dusted with powdered sugar that has fallen from the beignets that people have picked up from the take away window to eat while walking. Like crumbs dropped in the forest to provide a trail home, powdered sugar dusts the sidewalk in increasing density until you are on the doorstep of the famous Café.

It’s easy to order here, the choice is really only how many of the beignets to have and more is usually better. These hot and crispy pillows of fried dough arrive right from the fryer adrift in powdered sugar and ready to provide that guilty pleasure that only deep fat can offer. An order of beignets and a café au lait and you have either begun or ended your day in fine style. Maybe add some orange juice, but probably not, its all about the coffee and dough here. And a perfect combination they are each and every time.

As I said earlier, this was my first visit to New Orleans since Katrina and I was regularly reminded of the changed demographic that the storm left in its wake. Here at Café du Monde the native New Orleanians were gone, replaced by a newly arrived crew of immigrants with very limited English proficiency and none of the tradition of gracious hospitality and fun that always marked previous visits. I may as well have been in a Dunkin Donuts in New York City. As New Orleans continues to evolve and reinvent itself during its tragically protracted recovery, it will be interesting to see what new traditions may emerge, and sadly, what will be lost.

EatHereOrNot: MAYBE


http://www.cafedumonde.com/

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