Friday, April 17, 2009

Chicago: Frontera Grill



I am always wary of restaurants helmed by big name TV celebrity chefs, so I approached dinner at this Rick Bayless establishment with some trepidation. I had heard it described as “uppity Mexican food” so went with more curiosity than anything else and was pleasantly surprised. I sat at the kitchen bar and ordered small plates and heady apricot infused margaritas with a spicy rim, and nothing disappointed. The ambiance is casual in a kitchy southwest kind of way, and the service efficient and smiling. The one thing to know is that they room is LOUD, so don’t plan on intimate conversation over dinner. The vibe is fun and exuberant, go have a good time and enjoy the experience.

The flavors here are robust and combined with different textures for maximum impact; everything I tasted was vibrant and delicious. The taquitos de pollo, stuffed with smoked chicken and salsa verde were crispy and flavorful and the accompanying guacamole velvety perfection. The sopes rancheros were little cornmeal boats filled with a hearty beef stew and roasted tomatoes that I could have eaten all night and the quesadillas were a revelation. Not tortillas filled with cheese and griddled, but croquette-like pockets of cornmeal dough filled with jack cheese that were absolutely amazing. Again, I was hooked.

The one thing that you just have to ignore are the pouty faced faux-models at the front desk, who seemed annoyed that they had to interact with clients. Ladies, neither you nor the restaurant are that big a deal, so get over yourselves and remember that without diners you’d be back under a streetlamp in the cold Chicago night. Check this place out and have a good time, you’ll come away with a happy stomach and a new appreciation for celebrity chefs [or at least Mr. Bayless].

EatHereOrNot: EAT HERE

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